Widest wheels..."My plan for the sedan"

roller? no way....use some spray flat black ....I love that look! Black out everything...bumpers, chrome...etc ...

I'm doing to do that, but I think it'll be a more professional satin black

Originally Posted by 65falkone

I welded in the front portion of the custom "H" pattern subframe connectors. In the pic you can see the 2"x3"x .120" section of box tubing that runs side to side directly under the front seat bolt "hump" in the floor (long red arrow). There are 1.75" x 24" x .120" pipe sections welded into the factory front subframe rails (short red arows). These reach from the front where the rails go up at the fotboards and come back out through the rear of the factory rails and are welded to the box tube. The blue circle is where I plan to weld in a drive shaft loop - just not exactly sure where yet. I will be welding 2" box tubing back as well to the rear frame rails as well - I think this will be pretty beefy. You can also see the new front floor sections tacked into place.

Where the square cross tube meets the body, is it welded directly to the car, or is it connected to the for/aft running braces? Are those connectors actually welded into the frame rails? if so, how exactly did you weld them? I have thought of running INSIDE the rails before, but never figured out how to weld them Thanks for your help, and fantastic build. I am another firm believer of reading and doing it yourself! Rock on.
Eric

Paint
From reading about the roller paint option seems that there are a few critical things in the application process to steer you away from the living room paint texture.
1. The paint has to be thinned to the consistency of skim milk. Out of the can Tremclad is pretty thick and sticky.
2. Roll on in very thin coats.
3. Wet sand in between every 2-3 coats. I think this is how you end up with a smooth non-orange peel surface. continue to wet sand in finer grits till you hit 2000 grit. Finish with a polishing/buffing machine.

Sub-frame connectors
The welding in of the tubes was really simple? The point you may be missing is that the front floor on both sides was completely cut out - I could look straight down into the open stock rail. I measured the tube length required and found the biggest diameter I could find of round tube that would not stick up past the height of the stock rail (so it would clear the new floor on top of the rail). I then positioned the square tube between the door sill rails and tacked the round tubes to it. I dropped the assembly down and out diagonally to the rear and welded together. (also, the rear of the stock rails was cut open to allow the new round tubes to pass through it and on to the new cross-car box tube) I slid it back up and into position. I then tacked the new round front rails into the stock frame rail. I welded the box section on both sides right to the inner door sill rail. I was lucky on my car and this metal was mint. Nice strong connection on both sides. I then went back and stitch welded the front rails every few inches to the inside of the stock rail. I still have to weld the tubes that will go to the rear sub-frame rails. This will give it a true H pattern under the car and stiffen it up quite a bit I think.
I am also a believer in "I can do it - even if I have no formal training"....How hard can it be? others seem to be able to do it and I am sure they are not all smarter than me...
Pierre

Originally Posted by 65falkone

Paint
From reading about the roller paint option seems that there are a few critical things in the application process to steer you away from the living room paint texture.
1. The paint has to be thinned to the consistency of skim milk. Out of the can Tremclad is pretty thick and sticky.
2. Roll on in very thin coats.
3. Wet sand in between every 2-3 coats. I think this is how you end up with a smooth non-orange peel surface. continue to wet sand in finer grits till you hit 2000 grit. Finish with a polishing/buffing machine.

Sub-frame connectors
The welding in of the tubes was really simple? The point you may be missing is that the front floor on both sides was completely cut out - I could look straight down into the open stock rail. I measured the tube length required and found the biggest diameter I could find of round tube that would not stick up past the height of the stock rail (so it would clear the new floor on top of the rail). I then positioned the square tube between the door sill rails and tacked the round tubes to it. I dropped the assembly down and out diagonally to the rear and welded together. (also, the rear of the stock rails was cut open to allow the new round tubes to pass through it and on to the new cross-car box tube) I slid it back up and into position. I then tacked the new round front rails into the stock frame rail. I welded the box section on both sides right to the inner door sill rail. I was lucky on my car and this metal was mint. Nice strong connection on both sides. I then went back and stitch welded the front rails every few inches to the inside of the stock rail. I still have to weld the tubes that will go to the rear sub-frame rails. This will give it a true H pattern under the car and stiffen it up quite a bit I think.
I am also a believer in "I can do it - even if I have no formal training"....How hard can it be? others seem to be able to do it and I am sure they are not all smarter than me...
Pierre

Sounds great Pierre. What are the chances of getting some in detail picks of those sub frame connectors?
Been a big fan of your build from day one!

Some more progress last night - I completed and installed the shock tower block off panels and actually got to bolt on my new front discs. I was finally able to see where the front wheels are positioned and the approximate final ride height in the front. I am super happy with the wheel placement front to back in the fender. It is about 1/2" back from stock and I think it looks perfectly centered in the arch opening. Was kind of stressing about it. Even at the lowest possible ride height the tires can pivot all the way left and right without rubbing on anything. looking forward to sanding the engine bay and painting this weekend!!
I don't have any pics of the sub-frame connector install anymore...My laptop was stolen recently and that is the only place they were stored. I will take some more under the car shots after I finish the rear tube action.
Pierre

I just figured this out.... I am sure to some this is common knowledge but...

The dash bezel on 64-65 falcons is the same same as 65 shelby mustangs. That means that repro ones are super cheap. I just bought one on ebay for $31 shipped! Even though it is slightly different looking with where the black paint is applied it is the same structurally and has brand new chrome. This will look a a lot better than the old crusty one I have now. The other NOS falcon ones ranged from $90 to $300.
Pierre

that's good to know...good find! I'll definitely keep that in mind when it's time for my interior.

Engine compartment and rad support painted finally. Just about ready to "harvest" the motor and tranny from the galaxie. Hoping to have it out and into the falcon before the end of the month.... that was also my plan last month but.....

Budget Update
Just went over all purchases and sold off bits from the car. I am now into it for $2807 (including car) once I subtract the $550 worth of stuff I sold off it. Still pretty close to being on target for the $5k budget.

So far I have the following major issues completed:

• M2 front end installed. Discs, bearings, spindles, Control arms, ball joints, bushings, steering rack, tie rod ends and cross member are all new. Should steer and ride nicely. The only used parts are the used 425# springs. This alone was the most expensive part of the build so far at just over $1000. I justified this as a necessary expense to make sure it was going to be safe to drive with my kids in the car.
• Switched to an 8" rear end and did the mini tub and leaf move in. $400
• New floor with custom sub-frame connectors. $100
• New wheels and tires - 275 rear and 135 front $550
• Some small parts and pieces replaced on the car with better used or new ones.

That leaves me about $2200 to finish on budget. Pretty tight but I am feeling good about it still.

Just an update for those who might be amused by my "recession rod" quest.
Pierre

Was 2 hours too late to buy this on Sat..... Yes it is not a ford but it was such an amazing deal. I still feel kind of ripped that I couldn't buy it.
63 Nova SS, real SS 2 dr hardtop, factory white with red interior, was 6 cyl/2spd powerglide now 350/2 spd, new repro door panels and carpet, still has original buckets and center console, running driving condition with proper title. Owner lost interest, needed new quarters and some trunk floor replacement but otherwise a great project.....Sold for $500!!!!!
I know it is not a ford and this is obviously a ford website but these kind of deals don't come around too much anymore.