pinto front suspension and steering swap

im doing a pinto front end to got the hole front end for 100 bucks so i mean i would rather pay that then the 1000 in speedway for the same stuff

I am the widest wheels guy....glad my thread could be of use to some people.

$699 for the cheapest tubulars? Check this link for a complete upper and lower tubular set on ebay $259 shipped.

MUSTANG II TUBULAR A-ARMS STREET ROD 2 UPPER/2 LOWER:eBay Motors (item 110448640689 end time Oct-31-09 20:08:05 PDT)

I believe the only thing different between the M2 and the pinto is the stock strut rods have a different angle back to the chassis from the control arms.

As far as doing it cheaply there is nothing wrong with running the stock arms/strut rods. Especially on a falcon because you will not see it unless you are under the car. Different on a street rod where it may be exposed and you might want it to look a little sexier. Just clean them and repaint black and it will look fine. Can also upgrade later as budget allows if desired.

I guess it really depends on what you are trying to achieve. I decided to run an FE motor in mine and that would definatley not fit with the stock shock towers. I went M2 and removed the shock towers instead of doing the crites shock tower notching kit because I would still have to replace most of the worn out stock falcon ball joints, steering box, tie rods etc anyway. I figured that would end up being more expensive than the M2 conversion by the time all was said and done. The other advantage is I can run the FE or any other motor in this car without custom high $$$ headers. The car I am building is basically a cruiser and not a die hard race car so I don't really care how it handles other than basic street driving conditions. No matter what it has to be better with the new M2 set-up than a worn out stock suspension anyway.

As mentioned the pinto strut rods are angled a little different than mustang , no problem as you just bend them to fit . I used the 76 pinto parts on a street rod cross member just to get things put together then replaced with new parts accept the spindles and springs . Don't use the early , I think 73 pinto as there spindles are different and later parts won't bolt on . I made this mistake and the seller new what I wanted as I told him and he said they were all the same . Thats the problem buying swap meet parts , you never see the seller again . The early springs are shorter , I tried them with a V/8 , but they dropped the lower arms to low , I used the 76 springs .

I have a bit to say on the subject but I am not much for typing it all out. I bought a 64 Ranchero V-8 that sb had pintoed. I think they paid the welder w/ beer b/c the welds seemed to get worse as the project progressed. I have been working to re-do it. Basically, they bought only the crossmember from a place like Heidt's. They welded it in and barfed all of the pinto/mustang II parts onto it. They didn't even replace the 35 year old pinto bushings. My dad has a 65 ranchero w/ original suspension, and no p/s. My car weighs ~125 lbs more than his now w/ the power steering pump, brackets, rack and crossmember. But... mine is SUPER easy to drive and his is a PITA.
It's worth it if you can be w/o your car for about 1-month. I can list out the parts you need to do the job right, even with power steering. Email me and I will tell ya more.