66 rear ride height (I got a saggy rear...)

Okay, I am pulling my hair out here - this damn rear end ride height is driving me crazy.

I put the shocks in and it helped but there is still about 2 inches difference from side to side. I pulled the springs and swapped them side to side in hopes that now the passenger side would sag and I could say definatively that it was the springs - nope even after the swap it has the 2 inch difference.

I loosened the track bar and the lower control arms thinking that they might be binding. No change. I did not loosen the upper control arm mainly because I can't get the bolts to break loose - the front bolts are in a pain in the a$$ location and the rear bolt to the rearend housing won't budge.....


SO, any suggestions on how to get the rear end level??

I used air shocks and installed seperate line to each one. I drilled 2 holes to mount the valves in a spot on the frame rail near the back bumper. That allows you to fill one side then the other until it is where you want it. I like the rear just a little above level as in the pic.

CHOOCH - Just say NO to air shocks - I hate 'em!

I think (with the help of the guys on
galaxie@lists.twistedpair.ca) that I have at least figured out the problem and it is not with the rear suspension. I reviewed the pictures from when I bought the car and it sat level in the rear as I had always assumed it had. It was suggested that I measure the length of the rear coils with them out of the car - they are the same height. It was suggested that I measure the spring cavity with the springs out of the car and with the car sitting level on jack stands with the car level and the axle level - that distance is the same so I think this eliminates any bent axle or mounting points for the rear coils.

It was suggested that I measure the front height. I don't have the front fenders or hood on the car at this point, but I measured from the ground to the torque boxes behind the front wheel and from the ground to the front frame tongue rails and it is off by about 3/4 to 1" there.... and then 2" in the rear - all on the drivers side! It was suggested that the smaller difference in the front is magnified in the rear.

Here is what I discovered - if I level up the front, then the rears are damn near level (close enough for a 42 year old car!). So I think I can conclude that the rear springs and new shocks are not causing this issue.

NOW, with that being said - how would rebuilding the front end and using the same springs (that appeared to set level in the pictures from purchase) cause the front to sag on one side unless it is because the steering geometry is all screwed up from the installation of the new components. And if that is the case, would a simple alignment cure the problem?

Thoughts?

Good luck in figuring it out. I'll read along!

I don't believe an alignment will do anything for the height problem. Not sure if using the old springs will work but it might for a while at least if you reverse them. Put the driver on the passenger and vice versa. But then you probably have the same problem.

Some don't like the idea of using those twist in spacers on thier springs saying they fall out etc. They will fix the problem at least until you can afford new springs. I hate to see my springs out of the car as there has been those twist in things since 1975. Haven't lost a single one. But bet when they are out of the car they will look like a slinky!
Btw, i was reading the discussion on the twisted list myself and thought that must be you.

Deb

Yeah I don't like the idea of using short cuts to cover a problem. If it needs new springs then I will buy new springs. However, I want to be sure that this is the problem - in otherwords, I don't want to buy new springs and then still have the same exact issue!

And if I am going to buy new springs, I might as well get some lowered ones. Who makes lowered springs for the 66 Galaxie? I am thinking 1 to 2" lower (on both sides this time!!!)

That was only if you couldn't afford the springs. Even if it doesn't which I'm pretty sure it will, they probably could use replacing anyway.
My car has that sag also, I replace the rear springs but still need to replace the front springs and shocks. I think that's where the problem is now as it isn't sagging as much with the new rear spring.
The shocks are at the very least, 35 yrs old! So you know they need to go but I don't have any bouncing. Well I did when I had flat shocks and helper springs in the back though. Who needs hydraulics?!

Deb

All

I have been ignoring the Galaxie for the last couple of weeks due to mostly frustration plus the fact that I changed jobs last week (YEAH! No more 5 day a week travel).

I was out in the garage tonight doing some other things and the Galaxie demanded my attention. I had previously sprayed the bushings with penetrating oil and bounce the front end (no change). Tonight I bounced the front - then got the wife to help me bounce the front - still no freakin' change!!

I decided to jack up the front end really high (and support it with jack stands), pull the shocks and as a last resort, check the springs to ensure that they were seated. I used a really bright light and low and behold the passenger side was not seated all the way (which was the higher side) - damn it, I checked this first thing but didn't use this bright of a light nor did I have it jacked up this high.

Regardless, I believe I have found the issue. I will disassemble the passenger
side this week and seat the spring. Wish me luck!!

Now THAT is a very interesting story! Proves once again that sometimes you need to be global in your thinking to solve local problems.

Jumping in way late here but, will a saggy spring be obvious to see once the springs are removed from the car and not under load?