Help with rusty R-code

The mcguires was only for the water marks on the trunk...

I sincerely think that he will NOT want to buff this car out, that 40 year old paint is pretty thin and very easy to cut through...

With the qtrs rusted out and the trunk beginning to, he's just trying to prevent any further rust from happening...

OK, FE, I'm back in business with some pictures. My photographer is pretty lousy, and the first set of pics did not come out so well. So here are some better ones, a good overview of the state of this trunk. In addition to the rust on the inside rim and the outside of the lid, there is an ominous sound of dust and crap that rolling around inside the trunk lid when I open it. Probably there is some decay inside as well. Gulp!
I await your advice, and thanks again--Jay

Can you see the little hole through the rim on the right in this picture?




For some serious rust, check out the 1965 356C in the background. Said our local Porsche guru, "It's the worst I've ever seen."




Got any ideas about getting the rust stain off the trunk trim?

OK, you gotta LOT of work ahead of you, it's NOT going to be pretty unless you can get ahold of a sand blaster/media blaster the portable type if possible
Or having some spare cash is cool too...

To what extent are you willing to go?

I'll reply tomorrow morning, it's movie time

FE, I guess I'd like to know all my options. Sandblasting is probably more than I want to get into personally, but if it costs way too much to pay someone to do then maybe I would sign up for Sandblasting 101.

Is sanding by hand an option? Even if it takes longer?

Also, isn't the trunk lid easier to work on than the inside lip of the trunk?

City, where exactly is queen city? Is that a NY thing?

It's goign to be tough, and it's NOT going to be a professional finish but it IS going to stop the rust everywhere but in the trunk... Unless you take your deck lid off and take it to a shop it's going to continue to rust from the inside.

That rear lip has already got rust on the inner edge working it's way OUT from the inside exactly like what you see on the outside working it's way inside, and THAT is the hardest part to make stop rusting.

You can scratch the inner and outer lip and paint it but that will not stop the rust coming twards the outside from inbetween teh folds of teh metal.

The tinkling sound you hear when you open the trunk is pieces and parts of the adhesive that the factory glues the two frames together with when they crimp the lip. It get's brittle and the flexing from opening and closing the trunk cause it to flake off and roll around...

OK, The trunk lip is going to be simple and you aare going to need the following:

One 8 ounce can of Por-15.

Two Pints of Acetone {Buy it at Wallmart or the BX/PX/NEX or ANYWHERE but a Paint shop where they will charge you WAY more than necessary...}

A NEW trunk weatherstrip from MACS or Dearborn Classics, Along with a tube of Wetherstrip Adhesive, (a small tube...)

A few sheets of 80 Grit automotive grade sand paper {not the hobby shop/wallmart style orange or red sheets, but automotive grade, It lasts longer }

A couple sheets of 180 Grit, and a couple sheets of 220/240 grit.

That's pretty much all you need to start. Let me know when you've got it all ready and We'll get on it.

The wetherstripping can come last, so just get one ordered for now.

We are going to do Chemotherapy on your Galaxie, and get the rust to go away. It will help preserve that beauty until you can get her to a restoration or whatever you choose many years down the road.

Blasting the Trunk Lid is a MUST, but only the inner and outer lip, then there should be some rust mort added then some washing then some pouring of some Por 15... It's not difficult but it is sort of complicated, that's why that one part should be done at a shop... It might cost you a few bucks (maybe $150) for them to just blast the edges inside and out, and blast the area between the two halves. But after the blasting is done you can do the rest.

Let's see what you can get together first. Look for a place to blast your deck lid edges. and gather the supplies and we'll start on the trunk sides.


Gary

FE,
Before we begin, can you give me a brief overview of Ye Olde Trunk Lip de-rusting? Can I guess that with acetone and a bunch of sandpaper that I'll be sanding away existing rust and etching with acetone? Then painting with POR-15? Elbow grease is in good supply here.

And the Queen City of the West is, of course, Cincinnati, Ohio.

Jay

Cool Jay,

OK, yes, you should tape off a section about 2 inches away from the rust, and sand the schitt out of it until you are through the rust to new metal.

Use 80 grit to start, you should be cutting thorugh th erust to new metal in about 4 strokes...
Just sand away until all the rust is as gone as your fingers will allow. (they will get sore )

Once that's done, take some 240 grit or above adn gently sand the edges of the paint that's left and softly sand all the way to the edge of the tape.

You need have a 1" to 1 1/2" paint brish with fine bristles, or a spray gun, but for pure preservation purposes pretty is not as necessary as practical and cost effective.
Go ahead and clean the crud out, blow it off or wash it off then dry it realllllly good.

Now open the Por15 and paint all the exposed metal and rust right out to the tape line.

Get a coffee can and put some acetone in it and clean your brush thuroughly! You will need it for the second coat the next morning.

It will lay on fine and flat with a brush but we're not going for pretty just efficient.

Let me know if you need more info.

FE
P.S. The Acetone is NOT used to etch the metal, it is used to remove any oils from your fingers on the paint and metal, and it's the only thing that cuts the POR 15 while it's still wet.

Don't paint the por15 with the metal wet form the acetone, it must be dry.