Help with rusty R-code

Hello,
I'm looking for advice on treating some rust spots on our 1963 Galaxie R-code. The car has sadly but bravely faced the elements over the years. A lot of this rust came from a leaky garage, which is fixed now, but the damage is done. None of this is fatal or structurally a problem (no holes in the frame, etc.). It just looks terrible. I'm asking for advice on the best way to treat these rusty spots. This includes the rear quarter panel, the bottom of which is completely rusted out; the bottom of the doors (slightly rusty); the trunk lid and the edge of the trunk. I've included photos of the trunk lid to give you an idea of the problem. The frame and underbody is also covered with considerable rust, but only surface level stuff, nothing bad. Treating the frame is a subject for a future restorer with a sandblaster and paint sprayer.

My thought is to paint over this stuff, in a detailed fashion, with POR-15. One question is should I use clear POR-15, so the "original" condition is visible, or black so it looks better. I don't want it to look obviously painted over and amateurish.

Will POR-15 stop the rust like they say? Or should I leave the whole thing alone? A full repaint is not an option for at least two reasons 1) money, and 2) we'd like to preserve the extensive original paint, which has a few scratches but also a nice "patina". As they say, you can only have original paint once. And should I remove the trim and lettering for a really good job? Or will painting around it give sufficient protection?

Also note the ugly water stain on the trunk lid, above the "A" in "GALAXIE". Please, if anyone has suggestions for removing this, I am all ears.

About the pics: the first two are pictures of the edge of the trunk lid. The other pic is of the left edge of the lid and the opening to the trunk. The edge of the trunk opening is also rusty. Mercifully, the floor pans and trunk pan are reasonably healthy.

The all-original 427 8V engine, though it won't hold the choke and has a good oil leak from the rear main bearing, runs strong and well. As Han Solo said of the Millennium Falcon, "She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts." That said, the car won't make "point-five past light speed"...just eighty in first courtesy of the 3.00:1 rear end.

Thanks so much,
Jay

Queencity, I am glad you are taking care of it but if you don't do something now to the trunk you will loose a good portion of it.

As for the originality of the rest of the car, doing enought to stop the current rust will NOT damage the value of the car if you make sure you keep it documented like you are doing here it will help show that you as the owner do certainly care for the car to your best.

Fistly: I strongly suggest that you take off the letters and the trim on the trunk and remove the rust!

Just painting it with Por 15 will not stop the rust from spreading if it is on the inner lip as well as the outer.

Only you have the midicloreon level's necessary to stop this infusion from further damaging the Force!

Take the trim off the trunk and sand the rusty area's with 80 grit. then clean it off and use some rust killer called Rust Mort, it's a greenish liquid made of an acid that kills metal cancer dead and converts it back to solid metal.
Once that's done you can paint the metal with Por 15 and THEN it will prevent any further rust from eating the car...

Por 15 can be brushed on as well as sprayed on.

The process is not too complicatred but it's not the shortest route going through a post...

The water spots will come off with some rubbing compound and elbow grease...

Take a look at this pic and tell me I don't know about rust...



FE

Thanks for the help, FE. Can you recommend a rubbing compound for the water stains? I have plenty of elbow grease.
--Jay

Oh just any McGuires product will do. They are pricey but eficient.

But the rust is something you must physically attack before covering it with Por-15, that's why you gotta take off the trunk trim...
While you're at it there are another dozen things you can do to prevent other areas from going south...

While you're at it there are another dozen things you can do to prevent other areas from going south...

Well, FE, we've come this far. Don't get shy on my now. You know I won't mind a long post! Please, some other suggestions are most welcome.

OK, I'll give you step by step, but I need a pic of the inside rear lip of the trunk first,,, then about 45 minutes because I type slow...

HAY Gary,
Rust Mort is also sold under the name Skyco brand "Ospho".

It is phosphoric acid, which chemically changes iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate which is harder than sapphire.

I don't know what Rust Mort costs, but a quart of Ospho can be had at Lowe's for less then $5.00.

JC

There's another substance I use strictly for auto, but I gotta find it in my garage so I can name it for him

FE, I'll try to get a picture of the inside trunk rim tomorrow. I will be thorough. Thanks in advance for the kind help.
--Jay

Queen City

If ya want the rest of the paint to look good don't work on the elbow grease principle... Get a cheap High speed buffer

(Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices)

and a wool and white or tan polishing bonnet.

Start off with medium to fine liquid cleaning compound such as the meguiars mirror glaze fine cut cleaner #2 if the paint isn't too bad (Medium cut #3 if it is really rough)

Meguiars Waxes, Compounds, Clearners, Polishes & Accessories

with the wool pad.... use little compound and keep the surface wet and the buffer moving. Be VERY careful around edges of panels, curves and raised areas/ridges as you can burn the paint You probably wont have to do much work with the medium stuff to bring up a good gloss and knock out the defects. Then switch over to the foam pad and the polishing compound..such as the meguiars mirror glaze machine glaze #3 this stuff will make a mediocre paint job look great and gives that WET look. again, little compound and keep the surface wet. Go easy on edges and ridges and keep the buffer moving. 3M products
3M Waxes, Compounds, & Polishes
also work great but pricier than the meguiars....

Makes for a really rewarding couple of hours to watch the shine come back out!