Interior Work on Ms. American 3.14159

I'm with the other two. I did mark mine the last time it was off but it wasn't right even then from previous times being off and that was with the paint and all still on there.

Originally Posted by UTRY

JC, a little heads up on your next project, before you remove the hood and hinges take a sharp awl and scratch in the outline where the hood bolts to the hinges and where the hinges bolt to the car, this will save you a boatload of time and trouble with alignment of the hood when you put it back together.

Hey Mr.U,
Alright, check.

Am having a bit of a problem finding a rebuild kit for the original water pump. Actually, the water pump was just fine when I took it off the engine for the rebuild in 1989. And it has been in the replacement water pump box ever since.

I'm going to take it to the FE Specialist's radiator shop and was going to have him rebuild it, but in actuality, does it REALLY need to be rebuilt? I've completely removed all the paint and rust that was on it, and it is ready to be repainted. There are some deposits in the interior of it, but they are slight. It turns easily, doesn't squeak, and I suspect that it would be just fine, unless there's something that I'm missing when it comes to a water pump.

Besides, it's a simple enough swap if it DOES go bad. And I'd have the water pump that is on it to put back on if necessary.

I looked at the 1964 Ford and Mercury Shop Manual, and it lists a number of "tools" that are used for rebuilding the water pump, and so I don't know if the FE Specialist (who said he's never rebuilt a water pump before) would have those tools.

Anyway, what do YOU think?

Thanks for the heads up on the hood.

JC

Originally Posted by FEandGoingBroke

I second the above post... UNLESS, you can easily see the outline of the washer mark left by the bolts.

They are fairly easy to get back to where they were before if the washer ring is still there when you re-assemble

Hey Gary,
Actually, the hood NEEDS to be moved BACK about 3/8" for the chrome bead on the front to match what's on the fenders. AND the back of the hood doesn't go all the way down to flush with the top of the fenders. And that has something to do with the hinges. I'm going to be taking those hinges off, cleaning, stripping, abrasive buffing wheel-ing them (and the springs), primer, and painting them before they go back on.

Also, I'm going to be cleaning the underside of the hood, and will be getting the insulations that go on the underside as well. If it's supposed to be there, it's going to get put on.

Anyway, hope you are well.

Press ONE for English!

JC

Originally Posted by ShotRod64

I'm with the other two. I did mark mine the last time it was off but it wasn't right even then from previous times being off and that was with the paint and all still on there.

Hey mon Deb,
Already this morning, I've got the plate that goes over the hole that the Heater Core Assembly all cleaned, and abrasive buffed on both sides.

Have a couple of questions:

1. The back side (the side that faces the interior firewall) of the H/D Unit is unfinished metal, and it was rusted in a number of places. I've removed the rust, and would like to make sure that it doesn't rust again. Would it be "correct&proper" to give that a coat of Clear Spar Urethane? I mean, no one will ever see it, but it will inhibit the re-rusting of that surface.

2. Is there anywhere that the "rules" about judging a Galaxie? Like when Mr.DH deducts 38 points for something like a Mexican Gas Cap? Is there a set of criteria or standards that is used, and that is somewhere published as a guide to building a show car? Not that I'm going to try to turn M.A.3.14 into any kind of show car, or anything like that, but I'd just like to know what the rules say about things. You know what I mean?

I've got one more piece to fabricate for the Vusic Instrument Resto, and then it goes into the final phase of giving it the textured Liquitex Polymer coating. Once that is done, it gets a coat of matte black Polymer paint, and then the transparent parts get a final polish and it will be finished. Then it will be back to M.A.3.14 full time.

Hope you are hanging in there.

Press ONE for English.

JC

I don't see why you couldn't clear coat it. Like you said, nobody is going to see it anyway.

I don't know if there is a published list of rules and regs for a points show car or not. I'm sure there are basic rules and probably alterations or rules added or taken away for individual shows. Depending on what kind of show.

I really don't know much about it other than all NOS or original etc. The obvious things.

Someone might know here. Might do a search for the big show in Hershy PA and what's that one in CA, pebble beach or some darn thing that sounds like a golf course or could be one for all I know. There might be rules on those pages.

Deb

You could go to a national show and not get one point deducted for the paint on the back of the unit.

If they can't bend over and look at it, they're not going to judge on it...

Preserve away my friend
Hope all is well!

Originally Posted by FALCONAROUND

You could go to a national show and not get one point deducted for the paint on the back of the unit.

If they can't bend over and look at it, they're not going to judge on it...

Preserve away my friend
Hope all is well!

Hey Mr.F (is that YOU Gary?),
I wasn't so much worried about points deduction for ANYTHING. But I keep reading (like in the Greg Donahue Catalog) about a "100 Point Restoration". For instance: I've ordered an 8'-0" length of OEM Type Heater Hose. And the description says:

"Correct 5/8" Ribbed Hose with 1/4" White Stripe. This is the ONLY CORRECT 5/8" Heater Hose available. Correct hose for any 100 Point Restoration."

So my question related to THAT was: What IS a "100 Point Restoration"?

AND I've got a bit of a puzzle. When I took the H/D Unit from under the dash, there was no "Heater Air Inlet Duct Connector". There WAS, however a plate with some rubber connected to it. I haven't yet looked under the dash to see how this all goes back together, but it was all stuck up under the dash with the same Gray/Black Adhesive that was also stuck to the bottom of the Aluminum Sill Plates.

Fortunately, the GD Catalog says that the part (C0AF-18A594A) comes with installation instructions. BUT looking at the picture in the GD Catalog, there appears to be a kind of clamp that secures it to the the flange on the H/D Unit. AND if I'm not mistaken, all the fastening of the clamps is going to have to be done through the Glove Box Door, with the Glove Box Liner removed. I hope it answers the question about how the Passenger Side Windshield Base (the upper flange) connects to the air inlet that comes from the Cowl Louvers. It could possibly be attached with the Gray/Black Adhesive!

AND there are two Heater Core Insulation Gaskets, and two Heater Core Tube Gaskets. required. All of those were in GREAT shape, and so I'm going to reuse them, after giving them a coating of the NAPA Rubber Spray stuff. BUT there is a piece of foam rubber that WAS adhered to the back of the plate that covers the hole through which the Heater Core is passed during installation in the H/D Unit. It appears to be just a piece of yellow foam rubber about 1/2" thick that is Contact Cemented to the back of the plate. I'm going to improvise here. It says in the GD Catalog that it is an "anti-rattler". I may use a piece of Styrofoam Insulation with aluminum foil on each side of it. If the Heater Core doesn't get hot enough to hurt foam rubber, it won't hurt styrofoam insulation either.

Anyway, the weather report says that we are due for ThunderStorms tomorrow, so I've got the 3.14 under the tarp, and will be working indoors tomorrow.

BTW, about five years ago, a new family moved into the neighborhood, and the Man of the family hated cats. He trapped and hauled off ten of the cats that I was feeding and countless others that belonged to other families in the neighborhood. I suspect that he took them down to the lake and drowned them. Anyway, he died Monday morning of lung and kidney cancer. Mother Nature seems to take care of her creatures. Karma's a bitch!

Press ONE for English.

JC

GAWDDAMNIT JC!

You put out TOO much info all at once every friggin time.

I can answer all these questions individually with ease.... INDIVIDUALLY...

OK, I can guess from all the reading I just did that the air inlet duct from the cowell was blocked off? Sounds weird...

I'm not going back through all that stuff...

About the 100PT.... That is the process of making every single nut and bolt and washer adn piece of chrome and glass exactly as nice as they were the day they came off the assy line.


FE
P.S. Yes, Falconaround is my workplace alter ego

Originally Posted by FEandGoingBroke

About the 100PT.... That is the process of making every single nut and bolt and washer adn piece of chrome and glass exactly as nice as they were the day they came off the assy line.
FE
P.S. Yes, Falconaround is my workplace alter ego

Hey Gary,
I mentioned a day or so ago that there is a "BIG-TYME" restorer here... And that he had an AMC Javelin in his shop. Well, if 100 points is as nice as the day it came off the assembly line, then this Javelin was a 200 point resto. It was MUCH nicer than when it was new. The paint, trim, EVERYTHING was just GORGEOUS. Like a Fabrege' Egg! Jewelry like.

Press ONE for English.

JC