Interior Work on Ms. American 3.14159

Hey mon Deb,
I did.

That's good.

Hope it does.

For what?

Or seals.

Too soon.

Congratulations.

I did.

(I'm replying without quoting like Gary wants)

PUFE

JC

Now that was interesting figureing out what was for what!

Don't know on the truck. It blew a couple plugs, first one at 40k miles and still the original plugs, had a sleeve put in (timesert) and then later on it blew another plug, got the plug to stay in but then on the way here it blew that one out again.

We put a new head on last tax time and since then it's been smoking when started and when it's under stress like getting up a hill or having to get on it a little. Sounds like it's spark knocking or something then let off of it, it gets its marbles back in place and go on down the road no problem.
The head we removed had a chunk missing where the plug was but we didn't find any sign of it so don't know where it went to. I was worried about it getting munched up in the cylinder. Piston and all seemed fine. My dad said maybe the piece was somewhere in the exhaust or intake and after we changed heads it found it's way back in the cylinder and that is the smoke and all problem. It definitely goes through the oil.

The smoke though is like a white like color like when you have a blown head gasket but totally smells like I don't know what, carbon, nasty burnt unleaded fuel or something. Another reason to miss the old days of leaded gas. You knew what the heck you were smelling! LOL

Who knows, could be something stupid even like a hose not in the right place, a sensor or something quit.... My dad had a fuel pressure something or other go on his newer truck and he said the black smoke just rolled because it was getting way too much fuel.

I'm curious what the problem might be so will update ya when we know. Now if it was a whole engine I'd say give me the '04 or newer one without the plug blowing problem. But knowing ford, there's probaby some screwy reason they aren't interchangeable or cost way too much to do it.

Hey mon Deb,
Wouldn't it have been a LOT easier if I had done it like THIS?

Originally Posted by ShotRod64

Well JC, hope you made it over those wrinkles in the rug!!

I did.

I did some cleaning and the weather was so-so but at least it wasn't raining.

That's good.

Not long down the road and the truck is going in the shop.

For what?

Had two people suggesting maybe the rings but who knows.

Or seals.

80k miles and falling apart the poor thing. But got title in hand after 7 long years of payments. Woohooo!!!

Congratulations.

Hope you had fun there frenchy!

I did.
PUFE
JC

I rest my case!

I didn't say shotrod could keep up with you, I only said I could

Hey Gary,
YEAH, but I can only post a single question at a time because answers only come individually.

What's an OLD man to do?

So I'm just taking a break, and then I'm going to build the "I" beam uprights for the "Bridge". I was contemplating it this morning, and it just keeps getting better and better.

PUFE!

JC

Hey All,
I have finished building the Bay Bridge (engine bay, that is). Have cleaned up the mess, tools, and materials. Took a bit of a break, and turned my attention to the Heater/Defroster Unit.

There is an inlet from the cowl grille that is connected to the Heater/Defroster Unit by part number C0AF-18A594A Heater Air Inlet Duct Connector and Plate (HAIDCaP).

This HAIDCaP is designed to be connected to a "Flange" by four 1/2" long, 1/8" bolts, washers, lock-washers, and nuts.

The HAIDCaP I got from Greg Donahue is a nice unit. Heavily constructed. It has to be "massaged" to be made to fit. In this case, two holes are going to have to be drilled in the HAIDCaP to get two of the bolts holes in the "Flange" to fit.

Once the HAIDCaP is drilled and bolted to the "Flange", it is ready to be attached to the Heater/Defroster Unit. The end that attaches to the H/DU is difficult to install, and would be impossible to try to do with the H/DU in place under the dash.

Mounting the HAIDCaP on it's flange on the H/DU is like mounting a truck tire with a pair of tire irons, only on a smaller scale (I use a couple of heavy handled table spoons).

Once it is in place, it gives no indication that it would come loose.

BTW, when I removed the H/DU from the 3.14, this HAIDCaP was nonexistent, so I have nothing to which to compare the new.

Also, when the H/DU was removed, the "Flange" to which bolts the HAIDCaP was connected to the Fresh Air Inlet from the Cowl Grille by the same Gray/Black Adhesive Stuff (G/BAS) that was also used to hold the carpets and door sill covers in place. I have saved all that G/BAS, and intend to use it to do what it was doing when it was removed.

From what I can tell, there was no other method of "holding" things in place. When the H/DU was taken apart, the G/BAS was just "gobbed" everywhere. Like it was some poor guy's job at Ford to get into the car and make sure that there was a glob of this G/BAS anywhere that there was an air leak.

SOOOO, my one question for this post is: Is there a standardized way to mount the "Flange" to the Fresh Air Outlet from the Cowl Grill with the G/BAS?

Some one has to know what the poor guy who had to install all of that stuff all the time did when he installed the H/DU. I may have to figure out how I would have done it if I were that guy, and then do it that way.

BTW, in the 1964 Ford and Mercury Shop Manual, there was no mention whatsoever abut the G/BAS. And the manual just says to take the parts apart. Nothing on how to do it or anything.

Anyway, hope you are all well.

Press Zero OR One for Digital.

JC

Originally Posted by JCAllison

Hey mon Deb,
I did.

That's good.

Hope it does.

For what?

Or seals.

Too soon.

Congratulations.

I did.

(I'm replying without quoting like Gary wants)

PUFE

JC

Heck gary's out roaming the highways and byways of 3 states right now, it's safe to quote for a while! LOL

I was just going to post and ask where you were today. Hadn't seen you in a while and was wondering if the cats didn't get thier dinner in time so you were the main course!

Originally Posted by ShotRod64

Heck gary's out roaming the highways and byways of 3 states right now, it's safe to quote for a while! LOL

Hey mon Deb,
While the cat is away, the mice will play.

I was just going to post and ask where you were today. Hadn't seen you in a while and was wondering if the cats didn't get their dinner in time so you were the main course!

Actually, the cats are through the change from Winter to Summer which includes a change in the eating, and they have finished shedding their Winter coats. Have been brushing them all a lot. They like that. And it gets a lot of the hair off of them.

I've been busy building the (Engine) Bay Bridge. It's all finished, and sitting in the living room, where I'm going to get some JPGs of it to let you all see what's going to be used to lift the Intake Manifold, and the Cylinder Head/Exhaust Manifold off the engine when I'm ready to do the job.

Right now, I'm back on concentrating on getting Heater/Defroster Unit back in the 3.14, and then the next thing is installing the Autolite 4100. Remember that it was because of going to put the Autolite 4100 on the engine, that the Heater/Defroster Unit needed to be operational, because the heat from the heater hose is what holds the choke open.

I still won't have the Choke Stove Heat Riser Tube going to the Carburetor until after the Cylinder Heads and Exhaust Manifolds are done because of the Choke Stove mechanism has to be installed, and I'd like to have the Exhaust Manifolds where they can be worked on carefully.


Anyway, I just got back from the hardware store, where I got the bolts and nylon lined locking nuts to connect the HAIDCaP to the "Flange". But first I've got to do some drilling.

Hope you are well.

Press "0" OR "1" for Digital

JC

Hey All,
Have most of the Heater/Defroster Unit assembled, but have a major glitch. Not insurmountable, but a bit of an expense and a bunch of dealing with it.

As you know, a new Heater Core for the H/DU was obtained. Installation found that the two brass tubes that are the inlet, and outlet of the HC are 1" too close together to go through the plate that holds the unit in the H/DU.

The tubes won't go through the holes in the firewall either.

So it's going to have to go to a radiator shop and have each of the tubes heated, and bent away from each other 1/2".

It's just one of the speed-bumps of life. Once it's "massaged", it'll be able to be put into the H/DU, and then the H/DU reinstalled under the dash.

OR... maybe go to Lowe's and get a propane torch. It'd cost about the same as having a rad shop do the job, and the propane torch would be left over after the job is done. We'll just have to see.

The Summer has changed how work can be scheduled.

Leaning toward getting the old 1967 Dodge Mail Van (Lorrie Van Haul) up and running again, so that transport would be available while properly doing the Great Cylinder Head/ Exhaust Manifold Repair Caper, without having to worry about how long it will take.

To that end, 2-4 hours in the morning are spent getting ready to move Lorrie Van Haul back from where she has been parked for a dozen years. She was running when she got parked. It's going to take some TLC to get her back going again, but she was comatose for seven years one time, and started right up with just a little preparation.

Moving it would make it to where it can be gotten to easily. It's got three inflated tires, and an inflated spare, which can go on the Left Front to make it movable. The roof is cleaned off, and all the leaves under and around the vehicle have been removed.

Have to air up the tires, and install the spare, then it's going to take a heavy tow chain from the rear of the Dodge, and the front of Ms. American 3.14159, and gently pull Lorrie back about fifteen feet.

Anyway, it's time for some lunch, a bit of a rest, and then it's onward through the fog.

Press "0" or "1" for Digital

JC

Did you figure out your fresh air to heater box thingy dilema?

They must of given you the wrong heater core. Mine when right in with the correct amount of spacing. The first one though was wrong and i had to take it back and exchange it. Been a while back so don't remember what the problem was now.

As for the "it must of been some poor guys job at Ford to be sure there's a glob..." That was just it. It probably was his only job all day long on every car that went through. A glob and stick the part on then repeat or something to that effect.

A man came by my car at the big ford show in CA, I was out roaming so missed him, but his job was to place the piece of trim on top of convertible windshields and screw them down all day long.

So factory work most anyone can do because they only need to learn that one skill in which they will be doing all day. Like Dexter...and hearing Omeletter du fromage all night. Even I could do it...maybe.

That's all he could say, they learn the job, that's all they do unless they can move up or something? Get promoted to mounting the heater box instead of globbing the goo. LOL