The 'great' 390 Update

If your spending the time pulling the motor out, take the time to completly inspect everything. Replace the Rings, Bearings, Gaskets and Oil Pump, Its cheap insurance if its already out of the car.

Originally Posted by dfree383

If your spending the time pulling the motor out, take the time to completly inspect everything. Replace the Rings, Bearings, Gaskets and Oil Pump, Its cheap insurance if its already out of the car.

This may be a bigger job then I anticipated but I do support the idea of taking the opportunity to replace wear parts.

As for the rings, are there compatibility considerations if using the stock pistons? Recommendations?

may i ask-- if this is truly a 60 thousand mile motor -and it dosent smoke --not over heating - not burning oil-- why do you want to tear it apart--
from what your asking --you do not have the parts or the tools to do a rebuild -- im not picking on you here just telling you what i think--

to get the power you are asking for -theres machine work-hot tanking and machine shop work to build it--

dont be discuraged -- have fun with your car--

buy yourself an old engine from the junk yard-- build it up to what you want and then change it into your car-- you will learn a lot-- and still have your car to drive while your building a motor--

good luck

my suggestion do a good tune up on it -- it will last you a long time and will run faster than you will feel comfortable driveing --

Originally Posted by deadhorse

may i ask-- if this is truly a 60 thousand mile motor -and it dosent smoke --not over heating - not burning oil-- why do you want to tear it apart--
from what your asking --you do not have the parts or the tools to do a rebuild -- im not picking on you here just telling you what i think--

to get the power you are asking for -theres machine work-hot tanking and machine shop work to build it--

dont be discuraged -- have fun with your car--

buy yourself an old engine from the junk yard-- build it up to what you want and then change it into your car-- you will learn a lot-- and still have your car to drive while your building a motor--

good luck

my suggestion do a good tune up on it -- it will last you a long time and will run faster than you will feel comfortable driveing --

I know you are not picking on me and don't feel that you are.

I do find it interesting that you are asking me why I want to upgrade....for the very reason most gearheads do.....to go faster!

I am not sure why you think that I am new to wrenching. I have never built an FE but I have built an AMC 390, a Chexy 350 and have done a ton of other non-fully rebuilding projects and repairs. I am capable but always like to get good feedback and advice on these endeavors.

To get to the bottom of it, an engine that does not blow oil or have any issues is a very good platform to make these upgrades! Not sure why you don't see the value in that.

i agree its a good canadate for a strong engine--

it was the way you were asking the questions --i got the feeling you didnt have the know how to do the up grade-- for that i apolagize--

the FE is in no way a 350 chevy-- - different horse-- its the little things that will grab ya--

to answer you first post -- thts not anyway near enough cam-- - and you will need head work to make your cam breath-- mostly valve springs-- and dont forget - hardened valve seats-- i would suggest brass valve guides-- double springs --
restrict oil to the top end -- screw in oil gally plugs-- cam bearings to go with your new cam-- and get a new damper--

DH, no harm, no foul.

I will call some local machine shops and get estimates for the head work.

Assuming I will be using the original slugs, can anyone recommend a good set of rings?

In my opinion, any engine with over 60 thousand miles on it, should at least get a new timing chain. Ever have one break while driving ? It's not a pretty site ! Even if it just gets slack enough to jump a tooth, it can spoil your day.

I just rebuilt my 390. It wasn't burning any oil under 50 MPH, but any faster and the oil poured out of the engine at about a quart per 100 miles ! It turned out that the drain holes in the block were almost blocked by cast flashing, and it couldn't drain fast enough, flooding the valve seals. I also found similar flashing in one of the passages in the oil filter adapter, cutting oil flow to the filter by about 1/3. And of course, there's the famous front main bearing that never did line up with the oil passage from the factory.
Again, in my opinion, most car builders in the mid to late 60s were either drunk or stoned (I lived near a Ford plant in 1970, and knew many of these guys), and it is common to find all sorts of problems when you tear things apart. (they forgot to install the E-brake pedal in my 65 !).

Almost any engine can be improved simply by rebuilding it properly ! It's called blueprinting. Add to this the fact that the years have given us better designed parts, and experience of what these old engines need, and rebuilding a good running engine from the 60's becomes a great idea.
Better seals, gaskets, cams, rockers, bearings, oil pumps, oil pans, and electronics are some more reasons to tear into that old motor. The opportunity to fix some of the errors built in at the factory is a bonus !

Mike...


Long standing symptom of worn timing chain is to buzz along freeway then got direct down an off ramp. Engine ought to idle jsut find then, but after ten-twenty seconds near die. While you sit there, you hit the GO pedal again and things seem fine. This is often the ignition timing altering itself due to worn chain.

I remove the fuel pump, stick a finger in the hole, and touch the chain. (Works on small V-8 engines too). With one finger tip, try to move it around, for the fuel pump side is usually the slack side. Gives you an idea as to if it needs replacement or not.



Wm.

Originally Posted by MikeBasford

In my opinion, any engine with over 60 thousand miles on it, should at least get a new timing chain. Ever have one break while driving ? It's not a pretty site ! Even if it just gets slack enough to jump a tooth, it can spoil your day.

I just rebuilt my 390. It wasn't burning any oil under 50 MPH, but any faster and the oil poured out of the engine at about a quart per 100 miles ! It turned out that the drain holes in the block were almost blocked by cast flashing, and it couldn't drain fast enough, flooding the valve seals. I also found similar flashing in one of the passages in the oil filter adapter, cutting oil flow to the filter by about 1/3. And of course, there's the famous front main bearing that never did line up with the oil passage from the factory.

What is this famous from bearing issue? I am not familiar with that.

As for the oil passages I assume you are referring to the drain holes in the head or did you really have blockage in the block?

I will be replacing the timing chain and gears as I will be swapping the cam.

casting metel around the drain back holes in the block-- in the valley--

front main -- chamfer that dam thing --the holes only 3/4 line up--
chamfer the crank oil holes-- and -- the hardest part of rebuilding is -- getting the rear main cap back on so it dosent leak--