The Great Ms. American 3.14159 Headliner Installation Caper

Hey All,
Some weeks ago, a NEW Headliner from SMS arrived at the AllisonWonderland compound in Onalaska. And now that Ms. American is up and running, it appears that the NEXT thing that needs being done is to install the NEW Headliner.

Toward that end, there are a couple of things that need to be addressed:

First, the Headliner Bows need to be color coded at one end to make sure that they get put back into their ORIGINAL places.

Second: The Rain Channels on the sides and front of the Roof need some attention to see what the condition of the sheet metal under the existent caulking happens to be.

Apparently my father (or someone) filled the front Rain Channel with clear Silicone caulking.

The sides have some kind of "grout" material in them, but it is cracked, and actually missing in places.

Am thinking about completely removing ALL the material in those channels, treating any rust with Ospho, and then putting a water-proof something in those channels.

Then it will be on to the actual Headliner installation.

There is bright work Metal Trim around the Rear Window, so I don't think that the window will have to be removed.

And in preparation for doing all this, I'm going to do a search for "Headliner Installation".

In surveying the situation I found that the Headliner Bows are about 5/8" from touching the underside of the Roof Sheet Metal. Am thinking about adhering CelloTex Insulation to the underside of the Roof in place of the material that was originally installed which was a kind of fiber-wool material that over the years had deteriorated to the point to where it just turned to dust when removing it.

The CelloTex is lightweight, and has a high R rating, and would be easy to install as it is flexible, and could be installed in strips running cross-wise across the underside of the Roof.

Any heads-ups, tips, advice, ideas, and things for which to look, and do would be greatly appreciated.

Anyway, took Ms. American to the gas station yesterday, got fresh gasoline, and went for a drive. This is the second time that she had been out since the installation of the NEW Duralast Points and Condenser, and the first time out since the installation of the NEW MSD Spark Plug Wires, Autolite No. 45 Spark Plugs, and NEW Duralast Battery.

Just a word about the MSD Spark Plug Wires:

Had read about other brands of wires and they have anywhere from 150 to 1,000 ohms per foot resistance. The MSDs are advertised as having less than 50 ohms per foot resistance. I have no idea how important this is, but after putting in fresh gas, we went for a drive North from Onalaska to Trinity, and on the way, she got kicked out of third overdrive into straight third by flooring the accelerator and holding it there.

I don't believe that she has EVER been stronger since I've had her. We were going along about 55 mph, and in just seconds we were going 75 mph.

Isn't this FUN?

JC

While you were out on those back roads, you didn't see a leather masked man waving around a chainsaw did ya?

Glad to hear that the Galaxie is roaring like a lion!

Originally Posted by danv

While you were out on those back roads, you didn't see a leather masked man waving around a chainsaw did ya?

Hey Danv,
You have to remember that Deep East Texas is the home of the world's largest stand of Pine trees, and logging is THE main industry. There are guys with chainsaws all over the place. But as for the leather mask...

Glad to hear that the Galaxie is roaring like a lion!

Now that the Exhaust Manifolds are no longer leaking, she doesn't ROAR like she used to, but she IS much stronger now than I ever remember her being.

Anyway, I just looked up in the 1964 Ford and Mercury Shop Manual, how to do the Headliner installation. I think I can do this!

JC

You got her back on the road and legal and now you're hotrodding around the neighborhood like a kid! Shame on you! Oh heck, you both earned it and sounds like you both had a great drive!

As for the headliner, of course you can do it! You have patience, I have none. If I ever get started on my top I'll probably end up just getting totally irate and puting it on there how ever i can and forgetting it cause i'll be too aggrivated with it. That's if I didn't turn into the Taz and just shred it. lol

JC...
I've done the headliner in my 70 several times and I'll warn you now...It's hard on the knee's and legs! I found that if you at least remove the front seat, you'll have more room to move around while pulling and tucking. The hardest part I think, is getting it to look right. I done my last one this summer, and I'm not happy with it yet, and I might re-do it again. You can do it, but be prepared for some soreness! lol

If you look closely at the bows about 4" in from one end you might find that they are already color coded? I have done several 61 headliners and two cars had them were color coded and two were not?

Unless you are willing to do the headliner more than once I would recommend that you use some material that is made for that purpose. The material used should be a good thermal barrier, a good sound reducing quality and just as important should be self adhesive with a good quality glue.

That roof gets pretty hot setting in the sun during a Texas summer and that is really a test of an adhesives long term holding abilities. Over the years I have used all manor of products to insulate the roof and have varying degrees of success but as I have stated here before I have not found a product that works for me as well as Dyna-mat.

Scott...

Originally Posted by ShotRod64

You got her back on the road and legal and now you're hotrodding around the neighborhood like a kid! Shame on you!

Hey mon Deb,
I didn't mean to leave that impression. Actually, Ms. American and I motored sedately up to Trinity, Texas, which is about twelve miles, and for just about thirty seconds of the time we were above 55 mph. I just wanted to see how she'd do with the pedal to the metal, AND to blow out the carbon. BTW, there was NO smoke of ANY color left behind us. Am thinking that maybe all the water in the gas had gotten rid of ALL the usual carbon build up.

Oh heck, you both earned it and sounds like you both had a great drive!

Deb, she is so smooth on the road, and NOW she is even quiet! Although, I kind of liked the leaking header sound.

As for the headliner, of course you can do it! You have patience,

It's a perk that comes from the medication that I take for the auto-immune liver issue! You see, one's immune system is powered by adrenalin. The medication that I take suppresses the immune system by shutting down the production of adrenalin by the Adrenals. I've found that I just don't have any more adrenalin rushes, therefore everything is done calmly, and without much emotion. This is not to say that I don't get irate. But it DOES mean that I just don't have any kind of "flare-up" when things don't go properly.

I have none. If I ever get started on my top I'll probably end up just getting totally irate and putting it on there how ever i can and forgetting it cause I'll be too aggravated with it. That's if I didn't turn into the Taz and just shred it. lol

Well, I'm slated to win the LOTTO tomorrow, and that'll be a cool $48,700,000.00, and then we'll be able to get the ShotRod all spiffed up. We'll even be able to get a NEW Green Water Bed, out of which we can have the NEW Top made!

Ordered a Variable Speed Buffer this morning, with which to do the compounding and polishing of Ms. American. It should be here late this week, or early next week.

Also got a new roll of 4 mil VizQueen plastic sheeting, and am going to make a liner for the tarp that goes over Ms. American. Am going to figure out a way to make it easy to put on and take off in one piece.

Sure will be glad when we finally get the Garage built.

Anyway, hope you are well.

JC

Originally Posted by bcuz1998

JC...
I've done the headliner in my 70 several times and I'll warn you now...It's hard on the knee's and legs!

Hey Mr. B,
Hmmm. Hadn't thought of THAT. Maybe have to put my Futon mattress in the 3.14.

I found that if you at least remove the front seat, you'll have more room to move around while pulling and tucking.

Have had a BUNCH of experience taking out, and putting in the Front Seat. The Rear Seat is already out of it, and sitting in the living room.

The hardest part I think, is getting it to look right. I done my last one this summer, and I'm not happy with it yet, and I might re-do it again.

What kind of things cause the unhappiness? Wrinkles? Sags? ??

You can do it, but be prepared for some soreness! lol

I already hurt most of the time due to the murdercycle crash in 1987. Have gotten pretty much used to it. In fact, occasionally, for whatever reason, I don't hurt, and have come to kind of MISS it when it's not there.

Anyway, I read the instructions in the Ford and Mercury Shop Manual. It's all pretty straight forward, or so it seems. I guess we'll just have to wait and see if I'm actually capable of doing the Headliner thing.

JC

Originally Posted by one37tudor

If you look closely at the bows about 4" in from one end you might find that they are already color coded? I have done several 61 headliners and two cars had them were color coded and two were not?

Hey Scott,
Just went out and looked at the Bows, and they DO have just the faintest color on the Passenger's Side end, BUT there's no color on the surrounding area where they go.

What I was thinking about doing is: Since there are five Bows, that I would get our five different colors of rattle-can paint and just give one end of each Bow a spritz that would also get on the Body where they attach. It would be quick and easy to do.

Unless you are willing to do the headliner more than once I would recommend that you use some material that is made for that purpose.

The ORIGINAL material used may have been good in 1964, but there HAS to be a better stuff now.

The material used should be a good thermal barrier, a good sound reducing quality and just as important should be self adhesive with a good quality glue.

When I took out the ORIGINAL fiber-wool stuff, it was apparent that it had just been put in with the barest amount of adhesive, and the adhesive had just been smeared on with a "dull" brush.

I'll get some JPGs of THAT. It was "slap-dash" at best.

That roof gets pretty hot sitting in the sun during a Texas summer and that is really a test of an adhesives long term holding abilities.

There MUST be some kind of adhesive made specifically for THAT kind of application. Will check on it. They have a LOT of different kinds of stuff at the local NAPA, and at the AutoZone in Livingston.

Over the years I have used all manner of products to insulate the roof and have varying degrees of success but as I have stated here before I have not found a product that works for me as well as Dyna-mat. Scott...

Will check into Dyna-Mat. Thanks for the tip.

Will keep you updated on this caper.

JC

#1: Good Luck!

#2: Wrinkles AND Sag's are the hard parts.

#3: The Bow TIPS are color coded on the drivers side I believe. Black, pink etc... Pull one out and examine closely, then simply write color on roof with pencil next to hole...

#4: Your back to your mind bending quote rendering not so subtle hard to read headache causing posts that I love you for! Keep it up

#5: Headliner Adhesive (with L-M-H settings on the nozzle) It's an auto parts store thing about a 16 ounce rattle can of it which often carries an Orange (colored not flavored, pleas do not lick it) label.

#6: when cleaning out the gutter use a THIN regular screwdriver or similar tool, but be cautious about lead seams and/or rusted spot welds so you do not part a seam of metal by accident. (followup with wire wheel on a dremel type tool to cull the rust)

#7: 800 EZ is a good and proper sealer for the rain gutter, and I highly recommend it.

#8: I'm done flappin' my phalanges, have a nice day and I am Glad to find you well!


FE