The Great Ms. American 3.14159 Chase Truck Renovation Caper - Page 2

**JCAllison** · 10-23-2009, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Domino

I know Ms. American has her own page, but does Lorrie Van Haul have one?

Hey Mr. D,
Yes! Click here:

1967 Dodge Mail Van

So today I got the Master Cylinder out of Lorrie.

Took the top off of it, and along with the top the formed rubber Cover Gasket. Took the Retainer off, but the Pistons are frozen in the Master Cylinder Body.

It is now soaking in AeroKroil.

If the Piston won't come out, the whole assembly is toast.

Am thinking that I might take the Master Cylinder Body to a Brake Shop and see if they can get the Piston to come out. I'm sure that this is NOT the first time for this to happen.

If they can't, or won't get it out, then will have to get a whole NEW Master Cylinder Assembly. $139.00 at NAPA and they have to order it.

I think I can find it at a better price elsewhere.

Will also need a new Boot that goes over the boss on the Retainer, and fits around the Shaft from the Brake Pedal to the Piston, if the old Body can be used. I would imagine that a new Boot would come with a NEW MCA.

Got all the pieces that came off cleaned, and they are now residing in a container.

Next comes the Wheel Cylinders.

JC

**Rich27028** · 10-23-2009, 06:59 PM

start by un hooking things -one at a time - -- cab light- trunk light-- stop lights-
lighter---my guess-- its the alternator if it has one --or the volt regulator----

**JCAllison** · 10-23-2009, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich27028

start by un hooking things -one at a time

Hey Mr. DH,
What do you mean by "un hooking"? Do you mean pulling fuses? Or actually taking the connectors off of "cablight - trunk light - stop lights - lighter"?

Quote:

my guess-- its the alternator if it has one

It DOES have an Alternator.

Quote:

or the volt regulator

It DOES have a Voltage Regulator

And as I am "un hooking" things, I test with the Test Light between the Negative Post of the Battery and the Battery Cable connected to Ground?

Am I sure that I'm qualified to do this?

If I don't unhook the Quick Disconnect from the Negative Post of the Battery, it takes maybe three or four days to drain the battery. It must NOT be a very BIG short. AND sometimes it doesn't do it! That's the worst kind of thing because it isn't consistent.

Thanks for the response, the suggestions, and the tutorial.

JC

**K2racer** · 10-24-2009, 08:17 AM

Maybe a cell is shortcircuted in the battery? If you look down the cells, does it look like cotton on the plates? Then it's a no gooder. A fresh cell is clear and nice around the plates.

**Rich27028** · 10-24-2009, 08:37 AM

easy enough to tell if its a shorted battery-- put one that you know is good in it and test for a short--

**K2racer** · 10-24-2009, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich27028

easy enough to tell if its a shorted battery-- put one that you know is good in it and test for a short--

Well........... that's brilliant

**JCAllison** · 10-24-2009, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K2racer

Maybe a cell is shortcircuted in the battery? If you look down the cells, does it look like cotton on the plates? Then it's a no gooder. A fresh cell is clear and nice around the plates.

Hey Mr. K2R,
It has a Brand New Duralast Battery installed last Sunday morning.

The condition of it running down the Battery if the Battery is left hooked up is a LONG standing condition that I have just not addressed. Instead, I installed a quick disconnect Connector on the Negative Pole of the battery, and I just hook it up when Ms. American needs to go somewhere, and unhook it when we get home.

Thought at one time that it might be the Trunk Light not turning off, but there isn't any Trunk Light. Still, I had someone close the Trunk Lid with me in the trunk, and it was totally dark in there.

Thought that it might be that the Electric Choke was not connected to the Ignition Switch, but that isn't it because the condition still exists with both the wires taken off of the Electric Choke Cap.

AND another STRANGE thing: The Battery that was taken out showed 10 Volts on the Volt Meter on the Under-Dash Gauge Assembly. AND the NEW Battery does the same. So the Volt Meter under the Dash MIGHT not be registering what the REAL charge is on the battery. But, with the Engine running it registers 14 Volts right after start-up, and then settles to 12 to 13 after the Battery gets topped off after the Started has been used. And it reacts to the Turn Signals being on. AND when the Headlights are turned on, it shows a discharge, which then goes back to normal when the Voltage Regulator does its thing. Also, when the Speedometer get to 28 MPH, the Over Drive solenoid kicks, and the Volts go to ZERO, and instantly back to what they were at 27 MPH. BTW, that is normal.

Just got back from checking both Batteries with a Multi Tester, and both showed 12+ Volts.

I've always been of the opinion that it's a bare wire touching something that is grounded, because it doesn't do it all the time.

Anyway, thanks for the response, and the heads-up. Any other idea is welcome.

JC

**JCAllison** · 10-24-2009, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich27028

easy enough to tell if its a shorted battery-- put one that you know is good in it and test for a short--

Hey Mr. DH,
Like I told Mr. K2R, it's NOT a problem with the Battery. I may take it to a place in Livingston that specializes in Auto Electrics.

But right now, I'm concerned about another problem: How to get the Piston out of the Master Brake Cylinder Body. It's STUCK in the bore, and there's nothing onto which to grab with which to pull it out.

I've had a couple of ideas. Let me run them past you (and everyone) to see what you think:

The first one was to: Take a piece of hardwood dowel slightly smaller than the diameter of, and shorter than the depth of the hole into which the Brake Push Rod fits. Screw a long Wood Screw into it. Then EPOXY the dowel into the hole into which the Brake Push Rod fits. When it is cured, pull the Piston out using the long Wood Screw as a handle. Then remove the Wood Screw, and drill the Dowel out with the proper sized Drill Bit, finishing it off with the Craftsman RotoTool and a Burr Bit.

The second one was to: Epoxy a NUT into the bottom of the hole into which the Brake Push Rod fits being careful not to get any epoxy on the threads of the Nut. When the epoxy is cured, thread a long Bolt into the Nut, and pull the Piston out using the Bolt as a handle. The Nut could be left in the hole and the Brake Push Rod adjusted to accept the lessened hole depth.

And NOW, a QUESTION: Would it hurt anything to soak the Master Cylinder Body in Berryman Carburetor Dip? All the rubber parts are going to be replaced anyway

As was mentioned earlier in this thread, I made the mistake of using Silicone Brake Fluid when I rebuilt the Brakes back in 1986. And there is a "sludge" in the Master Brake Cylinder Body that Berryman Carburetor Dip would most likely remove.

Whaddaya think?

JC

**K2racer** · 10-24-2009, 01:34 PM

Put a grease gun (if you have one) and a airbleed nipple on the pressure outbond and pump out the piston. Plug the inlet. voila

Hey, i'm doing more than 200 posts. I'll celebrate that with a glass of good rhum.

**Rich27028** · 10-24-2009, 01:36 PM

well hell im a brilant sorta feller--

hey JC smack the piston a few times --put a piece of wood between the piston and the hammer jar it loose soaking wont hurt a thing your going to rebuild it anyway----
ya know --i like the grease gun idea-- it will give you a steady and higher pressure--