The Great Ms. American 3.14159 Chase Truck Renovation Caper

Originally Posted by K2racer

Put a grease gun (if you have one) and a airbleed nipple on the pressure outbond and pump out the piston. Plug the inlet. voila

Hey Mr. K2R,
I have a Grease Gun.

What is an "airbleed nipple"?

Where is the "pressure outbond"?

I can see how pressuring up the Cylinder with grease might "pump out the Piston" were it not for the fact that there are holes from the Cylinder to the Reservoir where the grease would go instead of pushing out the Piston.

You say "Plug the inlet". I'm afraid that any plug that I could put on those holes from the Reservoir to the Cylinder would have less strength that that which is holding the Piston in the Cylinder Bore.

Hey, i'm doing more than 200 posts. I'll celebrate that with a glass of good rhum.

Congratulations!

JC

Originally Posted by JCAllison

Hey Mr. K2R,
I have a Grease Gun.

What is an "airbleed nipple"?

Where is the "pressure outbond"?

I can see how pressuring up the Cylinder with grease might "pump out the Piston" were it not for the fact that there are holes from the Cylinder to the Reservoir where the grease would go instead of pushing out the Piston.

You say "Plug the inlet". I'm afraid that any plug that I could put on those holes from the Reservoir to the Cylinder would have less strength that that which is holding the Piston in the Cylinder Bore.

Congratulations!

JC

I'm sorry but thinking in swedish and writing in english under the influence of rhum might be a bad idea.
On the pressure side means the outlet brake line.

Originally Posted by Rich27028

hey JC smack the piston a few times --put a piece of wood between the piston and the hammer jar it loose

Hey Mr. DH,
The Piston is already in the fully depressed position. It is NOT going to jar loose.

I did some research on what has happened which centers around the Silicone Brake Fluid. Silicone Brake Fluid won't mix with water. And the research I did on the subject says that there is water in every brake system. If the system has Silicone Brake Fluid, and has sat for a while, the water separates in the system and settles in the "low parts", where it corrodes the metal. That is what has happened here. The Cylinder has corroded on the bottom, and the rust is holding the Piston in place. It NEEDS to be pulled out, but that means that it needs something on which to pull. Thus the ideas of making handles described in the previous post.

soaking wont hurt a thing your going to rebuild it anyway

Going to put the whole thing in the gallon can of Berrymans.

ya know --i like the grease gun idea-- it will give you a steady and higher pressure--

Don't think it will work because of the holes from the Reservoir to the Cylinder.

Here is another QUESTION: In the Pressure Outlets, there are what are called: "Tube Seats" (which can be removed with either an "Easy Out", or a Screw threaded into the Seat), behind which are "Residual Pressure Valves and Springs". What is a "Residual Pressure Valve"? And what does it do?

Anyway, I've got to go to the store. Am going to start the Master Cylinder Body to Soaking, and go.

Will check back later.

JC

JC-- the resv holes are only lined up with the piston inlet when the piston is all the way back--- thats when it picks up fluid from the resv.-- as you push on the piston it passes the inlet and traps the fluid and sends it down the line--

i dont know what fitting you would need to adapt a zerk fitting to your master-- that might be the hard part-- ya know a rebuilt is really cheap at most any parts store-- would save a lot of work--

Originally Posted by Rich27028

JC-- the resv holes are only lined up with the piston inlet when the piston is all the way back

Hey Mr. DH,
You're talking about the Reservoir Holes.

thats when it picks up fluid from the resv.-- as you push on the piston it passes the inlet and traps the fluid and sends it down the line

Alright. BUT, at the Pressure Outlets (there are two of them, one for the Front Brakes, and one for the Rear Brakes) behind the Tube Seats (which are screwed into the outlets), there are what is called: "Residual Pressure Valves".

What ARE Residual Pressure Valves? What purpose do they serve? Also, remember that this is MoPar (Dodge) machinery. When I cleaned up the Master Cylinder on Ms. American, I didn't encounter any Residual Pressure Valves.

i dont know what fitting you would need to adapt a zerk fitting to your master-- that might be the hard part--

It would have to be a Zerk the same size, and with the same thread as the fitting that goes into to Pressure Outlets on the Master Cylinder where the Tube Seats are.

AND if one pumped grease into EITHER of those two orifices, it would have to go through the "Residual Pressure Valves" to get into the Cylinder Bore.

That's why I'm asking what are the Residual Pressure Valves, and what purpose do they serve?

ya know a rebuilt is really cheap at most any parts store

NAPA here quoted me $139.00 + tax. I've found rebuilt ones on the Internet for $39.95 + shipping. NAPA sell the "rebuild kits" for $19.95, and the labor is FREE!

would save a lot of work--

But it would mean that the unit that has always been on Lorrie would no longer get to drive around with us when we went somewhere. Besides, isn't "saving a lot of work" kind of anathema to the whole purpose of doing this?

After all, I'm doing this to pass the time, AND for the experience.

I know that YOU'VE already done this, but I haven't. You don't want us hippies to have ANY fun, do you?

Heh heh heh heh

JC

Residual Pressure Valves". - holds 10 pounds of fluid pressure in the line to the brakes-- this is just enough to hold the springs slightly extended-- the purpose is to take up the slack in the brake parts -so you dont have to have a really long pedal travel-

Originally Posted by Rich27028

Residual Pressure Valves". - holds 10 pounds of fluid pressure in the line to the brakes-- this is just enough to hold the springs slightly extended-- the purpose is to take up the slack in the brake parts -so you dont have to have a really long pedal travel-

Hey Mr. DH,
So they limit the flow of fluid BACK into the Master Cylinder from the Brake Lines.

Wouldn't they stop the Grease from going into the Master Cylinder if we tried to use the method that Mr. K2R suggested?

The Tube Seats are removable, and that ALSO allows the Residual Pressure Valves to be removed. The Manual that I have about Dodge Vans says that the Tube Seats can be taken out with an Easy Out, or a screw threaded into the hole, BUT it would have to be an awfully small Easy Out because the hole is only 1/16" in diameter. Also, it says that unless they are messed up, that there's no reason to take them out.

The reason I mention this is that in a pinch, we could take them out to take out the Residual Pressure Valves to let the Grease into the Cylinder.

Still, the grease would only push the Pistons back into their "at rest" position, and then the grease would flow up into the Reservoir.

The four Wheel Cylinders are also going to be removed, and if possible rebuilt.

The Flexible Brake Lines are probably going to have to be replaced as they are rubber, and are probably rotten from sitting for fourteen years.

Another QUESTION: What is the best method for flushing the Silicone Brake Fluid out the metal Brake Lines? All of the Silicone Brake Fluid has to be cleaned out, and then we'll go back with regular Brake Fluid, because the two fluid types are NOT compatible.

Anyway, isn't this FUN?

JC

So, how's it going? Tried the grease gun hydraulic trick yet? I've used it on rusted calipers and it always works. If you need to flush the brake lines I'd use only brake fluid. Some say denaturated spirits but I'm not sure how the hoses stand up to that. OK, good luck.

Originally Posted by K2racer

So, how's it going?

Hey Mr. K2R,
I'm afraid that things move a mite less expeditiously out here in the forest, what with the ONLY Auto Parts Store being closed on Saturday. And since NAPA took it over, and has a grumpy old lady (the owner, whose favorite reply is: "We can't do THAT!") and a young lady (who knows little about cars) in charge of the place, hardly anyone is going there any more, and there are rumors that it is probably going to close down leaving us here with aught to do but drive the twenty-six mile round trip to the next nearest parts store.

Tried the grease gun hydraulic trick yet?

Not yet. Am still researching the functioning of the Master Cylinder Unit with my good friend Mr. DH (Richard) about how it all works. And I intended to start it soaking in Berryman's Carb Dip yesterday but found that I need a container bigger than the gallon can that the Berryman's comes in, and that the Porcelain kettle that I have, that is bigger, BUT if I use that, I don't have enough Berryman's to cover the Unit. There are always issues that keep things from going quickly here.

I've used it on rusted calipers and it always works.

I can see that it's a good idea. I'm a bit concerned though that when the piston gets to its detant position that the grease will but be pumped up through the Reservoir Supply Holes though.

If you need to flush the brake lines I'd use only brake fluid. Some say denatured spirits but I'm not sure how the hoses stand up to that.

ALL the Flexible Hoses will be OFF the Metal Brake Line as they probably need replacing. I've no way to know whether or not they REALLY do, so will replace them in any case just to make sure. Was thinking about going to plaited Metal Hoses.

OK, good luck.

Thanks. Things are going at a rather leisurely pace, as there is actually no urgency about any of this. I'd LIKE to have Lorrie up and running, but there is also stuff that I'd like to do on Ms. American too. None-the-less, it's all enjoyable stuff, and done in is teenincy increments with lots of contemplation, research, and thought going on between each step.

I'm thinking that one of the next things to do on Lorrie is to change her status from Storage Bin back to Essential Vehicle by getting all the extraneous stuff that has gotten put into her out of her, and into a proper storage place.

As soon as the refurbished/replaced Master Cylinder Unit is installed, the Radiator can be installed, and then we'll see if we can get her Engine to functioning.

Work continues at an enjoyable pace.

JC

J.C. sorry to tell you this, but if the piston is frozen in the cyl, once (and if) you get it out , the cyl bore will be out of tolerance. re-sleeving is more expencive than a new M/C. throw it away. BTW i drove a 67 a100 for about 10 years . loved it