scored a 401 for the Rambler *carnage update*

UPDATE with pics

only broke one skirt from rod binding, had to beat pistons down with 2x4 and BFH. removed main caps and went to town on it. The piston 1" dia piston pins were stuck more than the rings were.


Not as big as Chillys BFH but it worked, I was surprised on the abuse the cast piston took.


motor with rusty cylinder, not bad for 13 years sitting


forged Crank mics ok.. maybe I can get away with a polish ? looks worse in this pic.


Friday I picked up a complete 71 401 motor for the Rambler. 4.165 stock bore[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img] Even has the 291 casting 50cc heads on it. Poor motor been sitting for 13 yrs or so, wasted a whole bottle of propane getting bolts lose. Spent last two days tearing it down, pistons are still stuck... any ideas on getting them out? PB blaster lube not working to well.

AMC head flow
Valve 2.025" 1.625"
Seat 30* 45*

0.100 84 64
0.200 152 109
0.300 197 136
0.400 220 149
0.500 225 152
0.600 235 164
0.700 241 164




<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: fogged408w on 5/11/05 10:03am ]</font>

kano kroil, one of the best penetrating oils around. hard to find, but you can order it off the internet. workes miracles. I have seen it first hand. could not budge a distributor shaft, even had a pipe wrench on it. Guy comes up and says try this, put a few drops on it, and started twisting it within a few seconds...

sili kroil works well too. I was thinking chilly's idea before I read his response. It's super hack, but if it comes down to it what other choice is there. Also as a penetrating lube Justice Brothers "80" works great if you can find it. WD40 is for door hinges.
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Simple...

Take the crank out.

Get a 4x4 and round one end to fit the piston's in a general way.

Cap the other end with sheet metal.

Get a 3-8 lb hammer.

HIT that MF a few times. It's only corroded aluminum and the rusty rings holding them in there.

Once you get downward movement, use a nice chunk of hammer handle or other hardwoon to attack them from the bottom, and force them out.

Works every time! [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_tup.gif[/img] [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_tup.gif[/img]
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The only way I've been able to remove a crank with pistons/rods still in the block was to move the pistons to the top of their bores. Seems like the angle of the rods hangs the rods up on the crank journals.
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well, 3 days of lube and no go, cant remove crank because of tight rod angles.... Chilly is right, B F H time
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PLEASE post a pic of the carnage!!!
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updated
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I see a cooler in the background!!! Got Beer????? I'll be right over!!! Leave the light on!!!! The drive is gonna take a while! LOL
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that's nasty, but hey after sitting 13 years.....
what you going to do with that engine exactly?
Hope you keep up posted with more pictures [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_razz.gif[/img]
good luck buddy with that engine.
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