Mothers\', McGuires Products = Junk

In the old days I used Comet, Ajax, Bonamy cleansers to bring back old dead finishes. Then I would wax them. Work great, looked like new. In them days the paints would fade but there was lots to work with. If you did that to a modern-day finish, you would most likely see bare metal.
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By the time I get around to washing a car, the wax is long gone anyway [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_lol.gif[/img]
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I have told you before and I'll tell you again.

99% of all paint jobs are utilising a Clear Coat. NOBODY uses just plain old enamel without a clear coat anymore...

A clear coat is designed to PROTECT YOUR PAINT, a CLEARCOAT WILL <U>NOT</U> FADE so no wax is necessary.... GOSH! Wax does make things slide off the finish and that's a good thing, but the second someone touches the finish that place will allow DIRT TO STICK TO THE WAX... When you wash the car with a weak girley soap the wax inprinted with that DIRT will keep that dirt until the wax is REMOVED...
Am I getting through to anyone here?

SO...

IF YOU LIKE YOUR PAINT YOU WILL REMOVE ALL IMPURITIES FROM THE FINISH PRIOR TO APPLYING ANY WAX. (then touch it as little as possible)

Wax will TRAP dirt, so WHY leave that dirt on the car and trap it under more wax????????????? [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_razz.gif[/img]

Myself and Shotrod and several others will continue to wash with Dawn and other Sudsy Dish soaps, for a real inexpensive and clean kind of clean, and you fancy schmancy know it alls can use that $7 dollar crap you get at the auto parts store, and continue waxing your dirt into the paint... [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_razz.gif[/img]

I'll keep the $7 dollars I saved and have a Bourbon and Coke and maybe even go to the movies [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]

FE
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i dont wash my car anymore because blue paint comes off and you really cant tell that i wash it because the paint is so dead

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On 2007-04-10 23:38, dbu8554 wrote:
i dont wash my car anymore because blue paint comes off and you really cant tell that i wash it because the paint is so dead
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[img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_lol.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_lol.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_lol.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_lol.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_spin.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_spin.gif[/img] That's funny! I have a Falcon like that... [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
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It not the waxing that is so bad, its that clear coatings are so thin.

Most cars over 10 years old that had two stage paint (base clear) have at least a few white spots, if not whole panels which have lost the clear coat. From the patterns that I see on those cars, you can tell that someone most likely used a power buffer and/or compound to "bring out the shine" - which last for about week.

With Clear coat, you can't use buffing compound ... ever! And you probably shouldn't use liquid detergent/dish washing detergent. There is a lot of difference between paint and ceramic dishes - ceramic glaze is much more durable than that thin coat of clear that comes on factory paint jobs. It doesn't help that a lot of detail shops are still using the same tools and techniques the used on old enamal paint.

I use Mothers, about 4 times a year - as the seasons change - and wash with car wash instead of dish detergent. It is true that dish detergent does strip oil, grease, wax from surfaces (and skin). That can't be good for paint, over time. Cars that are not shaded from the sun (UV) are really at a disadvantage.

Why bring up the obvious - we all already know that.

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On 2007-04-11 07:47, Beoweolf wrote:
It not the waxing that is so bad, its that clear coatings are so thin.

Most cars over 10 years old that had two stage paint (base clear) have at least a few white spots, if not whole panels which have lost the clear coat. From the patterns that I see on those cars, you can tell that someone most likely used a power buffer and/or compound to "bring out the shine" - which last for about week.

With Clear coat, you can't use buffing compound ... ever! And you probably shouldn't use liquid detergent/dish washing detergent. There is a lot of difference between paint and ceramic dishes - ceramic glaze is much more durable than that thin coat of clear that comes on factory paint jobs. It doesn't help that a lot of detail shops are still using the same tools and techniques the used on old enamal paint.

I use Mothers, about 4 times a year - as the seasons change - and wash with car wash instead of dish detergent. It is true that dish detergent does strip oil, grease, wax from surfaces (and skin). That can't be good for paint, over time. Cars that are not shaded from the sun (UV) are really at a disadvantage.

Why bring up the obvious - we all already know that.
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Exactly, with modern finishes you need to keep the suface clean (to prevent acids from etching the surface) and you wan to wax the paint as mainly a UV protection.

You also want to use a non-abrasive "wax" that won't eat down your clear and instead will fill in fine scratches and protect the clear from UV light and the harsh chemicals found in acidic rain, bird crap and so on.

Everytime you use a product like a Clay bar or "polishing wax" it takes a little of your clear away. That's why it should only be done every year or two if needed.

Well no problem with clear coats in my case. Still have the old original paint. Some missing from abuse and neglect but for the most part it's still all there. New cars or new paint jobs are a whole nuther ball game. Never had one new enough to worry about. My husband buys car wash for his truck but it's an '01 so probably the best thing for it.
I can say that I can't get a wax job with the buffer that lasts as long as one by hand but i'm getting old and lazy. What used to take me a couple hours to do now takes me a half a day or maybe two if it's hot as heck out so that hour to do the whole car with a buffer wins even though I'm not thrilled with it looking like it needs it again in a week. [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
Looks fine to others but they just don't know the look like I do.

Retyler, your mention of comet made me think of the awful abuse even my white interior got 20+ years ago. Bleach and cleansers til my fingers were raw. My seats are disintegrating as I type but not from the cleaning but age, rotten threads and exposure to the elements. I have hardly any foam left in them even. I don't and wouldn't use that stuff on my seats now but back then there wasn't much of a big deal over car stuff, especailly a 10 yr old car. It was just another mode of transportation. Of course before long I won't have any covers to clean![img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_lol.gif[/img]

FE, Carry on!!![img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_tup.gif[/img]

Deb


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ShotRod64 on 4/12/07 12:05am ]</font>

Beo, some of what you say I can agree slightly with and some I can't...

Base coat clear coat car's aren't painted to last forever (I know from experience) But, Any paint job can last the car a good long while when you take care of it.

A person should NEVER use rubbing compound on a finish when it is not absolutely necessary. Use it in a very centralised area to take out a scratch in the clear or in the paint on a non cleared car, but immediately switch to a non abrasive swirl mark remover or super duper fine polish to finish any necessayr work.

Things like that are usually reserved for show cars. Show cars are treated 100% diffrently than daily drivers, diffrently even than weekend drivers... Just a simple fact to share.

When cleaning a car everyone has their preference but my finish on my car that I wash with Dawn antibacterial dishwashing liquid will last longer than anyone elses because I treat my finish better then they do.

I Alway's wax over my clear... My special car was painted in Delthane acryllic enamel base with a durethane DU-1000 clear over the top waaaaay back in 1985. THat car still holds it's original shine to this day, and it's been washed with Dawn and Lemon Fresh Joy it's entire life, and topped off with pure carnuba wax afterward.

The paint is not perfect anymore because there are chips from it's life on the road in the normal places, but it still looks very nice...

I must agree to stay away from ANY abrasive polish unless absolutely necessary though...

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ok so you are telling me that after i block sand a new paint job with clear on it that i shouldnt buff it ? I have never been witness to so much bs in one discussion in my life. CLEAR COAT DOES deteriorate, fade, and yellow. Whoever told you this is obviously a moron. I am PPG and DuPont certified and have been in the biz since i was old enough to hold a wrench and have seen bad clear all the time because the car was washed with dish soap and subsequently dried out the clear making it turn white and eventually having it fall off the car. Look at what wahsing a crap load of dishes does to your skin next time you have company over.
Any paint dealer or the manufacture themselves will tell you DO NOT USE DISH SOAP! It should only be used for washing a car if you intend to repair a panel to remove oils and sealants for preperation of painting.


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