tips on porting 2v heads

hi i'm new to this forum and performance engine work but i know i don't have a lot of money and i know when not to destroy good stuff. i just order a home porting kit from summit and a 40 piece variable speed die grinder.
how far can you realy go before it's overkill. and what are good methods and tips[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_spin.gif[/img]

http://www.eastwoodco.com Here you can find a video for about $20 and it gives you what you need to know in a nutshell. I've completed a set of Cleveland 2V heads and a set of Aussie 2V heads. The end result is worth more than the trouble it took to get them there. There are 2 hugh bits of advice I can give you:
1. Once you gave started grinding, you MUST finish both heads the same way. Once you start, you CAN NOT STOP until both heads are complete. If you port match, complete all 8 intakes and 8 exhasts. If you do any bowl work, do all 16. If you polish the chambers, do all 8 chambers. This is one task that you cannot half-ass. If you don't complete the job, it doesn't mean the heads would be ruined. They just become worthless.
2. It will take you HOURS AND HOURS to complete the set properly. Do not expect to get the job done right away. Plan ahead and make time for it. Once you get a feel for the grinder and the material you are working with, you will begin to notice what works and what doesn't. You are the in control. Do not get frustrated. Work slowly. Do not rush it. Once material is removed it cannot be put back. If you get serious with the work that needs to be in the bowls around the valve guides, I suggest you invest in some tungsend carbide bits. You can find these at http://www.standardabrasives.com or ask your local hardware store. I just ask you for one thing: Keep us posted on your work and advances. If you get stuck, just ask us. Good luck! [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_tup.gif[/img]

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"Long Live the Cleveland"

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: marzz22 on 3/9/06 3:26pm ]</font>

Clevelands Rule!

What did that kit cost you? Most street bowl porting jobs we do are around $400.
All I can say is even though you might think you can make the port better, you might be surprised. If you really want to know I suggest having the head flowed before the porting and after the porting...then you will KNOW if you helped or hurt the port.
You also need to be aware of the valve diameter compared to the throat, the width of the bowl at the valve guide, and most importantly the short turn shape...which takes a flow bench and about 10+ years of porting to understand how to shape.
Also you might want to have the chamber plunge cut at the valves to help air get around the valve next to the chamber.
Use a good 37/45/58 or 60/72 or 75 valve seat cut and a 30° backcut on the valve. Thin the guide boss on the sides and the top. The short turn on those heads are not very thick so be carefull not to go too far and break into water...!!
Brian
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Hey fordduh, how's the work coming along? Have you started yet? Have you finished?
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I would love to hear more on porting cleveland 2V heads.

I am about to port mine and have been reading alot of forums on porting these heads.

Some say just clean up the ports and bowls don't take off too much metal as the ports are big already...

Any body ported cleveland 2V heads and would you care to share your experiences..

Oh and thanks for the tip for the video at Eastwood.com, looks interesting..

Angry