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09-04-2009, 09:27 AM   #11 (permalink)
doug351
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 284
Re: Porting E7TE heads

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranchero65 View Post
be very aware of ebay junk ... also you need to read more about the pro comp heads .....
Possibly. Yes, there's some junk on Ebay, there's some junk at Sears, Home Depot, Wal-Mart, or your local grocery. I guess I should include Jegs. com with that list as well since they sell ProComp heads.
Read where? The problem I have is when pressed about 90% of the people bashing ProComps have never owned a set or personally know of anyone who was unsatisfied with them. There should be a lot more complaints out there if they are that bad. I have heard of some complaints from people who said they switch heads and went faster... ( spent $1500 on the new heads and they were faster than the $700 Procomps, imagine that).
I've read this:Pro Comp Head Test | Muscle Mustang & Fast Fords Magazine Article at Automotive.com.
And this:Putting an end to the the Pro Comp head mystery-*many pics in here* - Corral Forums.
I've read most of this:Pro comp Aluminum heads - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards.
For every negative response there are at least 7 or 8 positive and considering most folks only talk about problems and wind up starting or posting because of it makes me believe the vast majority are satisfied with what they have. Also, 99% of the problems with these heads are from the older castings, which has nothing to do with the ones being sold now.
Like I said, I have no personal experience with these heads, but from what I've seen, yes, there is risk involved and you get what you pay for, Chinese is Chinese, but I would personally roll the dice and give them a shot.
Do you have any personal experience with these heads?
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09-04-2009, 09:55 AM   #12 (permalink)
doug351
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 284
Re: Porting E7TE heads

Oh BTW- If you go back and click on that link to the ProComp heads, take note of the sellers rating. I have about 232 transactions on Ebay and have only sold 2 things, the rest were purchases and most were off Ebay motors.
I have been extremely satisfied with almost everything I've bought so far and have been shopping for years now.
Gr8 Hotrods has a 100% positive rating. 12,716 transactions.
12,716 transactions without one negative feedback! That's unbelievable. Think about it. How can you sell "junk" 12,716 times without a complaint?
Unfortunately, Ebay shares the same bad rap as ProComp for the same reason; most of those putting out negatives haven't even bought anything there, much less bought a bad item, but are simply parroting someone else's alleged bad purchase.
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09-04-2009, 10:37 AM   #13 (permalink)
doug351
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 284
Re: Porting E7TE heads

Quote:
Originally Posted by 73FordDriver View Post
I have no experience in aluminum heads and how to treat them for daily use. Piston to valve clearances and stuff like that I need to do more research on so Ill know how to measure everything out.



FORD 302 306 308 SHORT BLOCK 350HP + SBF ENGINE MOTOR:eBay Motors (item 130328157653 end time Sep-10-09 06:22:47 PDT)
thought this was a pretty good deal for a roller block and rotating assembly

Ryan
Sorry abut that, jumped up on my soapbox so quick I almost forgot to post some replies to these questions.
Please do research as much as you can abut everything involved with your build-up it is time well spent.
Aluminum heads are fine for daily drivers, Nearly all 4 bangers have them.
The size of the ports is what you want to be careful about. Again, everything needs to match, which is why I linked you to 190cc heads instead of 210cc or more. They should work well with the level you are looking at at this point.
You should always clay your heads to PTV clearance regardless of what you use. I can't say for certain that it won't be an issue, (too many variables) but usually PTV clearance problems start at a much higher level of build than you are considering. Whenever they do occur at street/strip level builds, it's usually the pistons that are the problem because they lack adequate valve reliefs. It's usually not a big deal when it does occur because the amount of clearance needed is so close to what is there that 5 mins with a Dremel can solve the problem. I wouldn't think that there would be a problem with the short block you are considering but can't say for sure. I would stick with the 1.6 RR you already have, 1.7's are for people who want more lift from a cam without pulling the one they have IMO. Try to match a cam to what you have, (or want) not the other way around.
For the shortblock, I have no personal experience with that company and haven't heard anything one way are another about them. They don't have a huge feed-back rating, but what they do have is 100%.
If I come across any negatives about them, I'll let you know. They probably have a different company name if they do business here locally, if I knew what it was I could help you more with that. There are some good engine builders in Dallas and some not so good, but it's that way everywhere.

Last edited by doug351 : 09-04-2009 at 10:39 AM. Reason: spelling
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09-04-2009, 12:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
73FordDriver
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 173
Re: Porting E7TE heads

Quote:
Originally Posted by doug351 View Post
Sorry abut that, jumped up on my soapbox so quick I almost forgot to post some replies to these questions.
Please do research as much as you can abut everything involved with your build-up it is time well spent.
Aluminum heads are fine for daily drivers, Nearly all 4 bangers have them.
The size of the ports is what you want to be careful about. Again, everything needs to match, which is why I linked you to 190cc heads instead of 210cc or more. They should work well with the level you are looking at at this point.
You should always clay your heads to PTV clearance regardless of what you use. I can't say for certain that it won't be an issue, (too many variables) but usually PTV clearance problems start at a much higher level of build than you are considering. Whenever they do occur at street/strip level builds, it's usually the pistons that are the problem because they lack adequate valve reliefs. It's usually not a big deal when it does occur because the amount of clearance needed is so close to what is there that 5 mins with a Dremel can solve the problem. I wouldn't think that there would be a problem with the short block you are considering but can't say for sure. I would stick with the 1.6 RR you already have, 1.7's are for people who want more lift from a cam without pulling the one they have IMO. Try to match a cam to what you have, (or want) not the other way around.
For the shortblock, I have no personal experience with that company and haven't heard anything one way are another about them. They don't have a huge feed-back rating, but what they do have is 100%.
If I come across any negatives about them, I'll let you know. They probably have a different company name if they do business here locally, if I knew what it was I could help you more with that. There are some good engine builders in Dallas and some not so good, but it's that way everywhere.
I knew that If I did go with aluminum heads that I would not go higher than 190cc. Ive talked to lots of people and lots of reading and anything past that would be more for a bigger displacement motor, or one more of a build than what I am doing. So that was a deciding factor.

I was concerned on PTV clearance because I just dont want to end up bending valves. Of course I would not be using a huge .650lift cam, but just wanted to be on the safe side. I figured I should be more concerned on this issue if I went with a stroker of some sort.

When deciding on the block situation, to me it seems logical to go ahead and buy a reman. block put together. If I say for instance a junkyard, pull out a block, and drop it off at the machine shop I would probably spend just as much doing than that one already rebuilt and assembled. I also noticed about the feedback on that company doug. Its not much but from what I read about them and the feedback they do have seems pretty legit. I'm still going to look around and make calls on what I can find locally first.

Now, on with the Pro Comp heads situation. I have done 2 hours today on research of these heads, and mainly what I have come across is on the positive side. Very little negativity have I found. The negativity I have found seemed like from the people who always have something bad to say about a product. I read about knock off heads of the pro comp form being made in chine or australia, maybe they got one of those brands. Who knows, because I sure dont. All I know is that what I have read about them people had reasonable information on how they worked for them, and how they have lasted for them, and also the performance they have gotten. Thanks.

Ryan
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09-04-2009, 02:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
doug351
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 284
Re: Porting E7TE heads

Quote:
Originally Posted by 73FordDriver View Post
I was concerned on PTV clearance because I just dont want to end up bending valves. Of course I would not be using a huge .650lift cam, but just wanted to be on the safe side. I figured I should be more concerned on this issue if I went with a stroker of some sort.


I read about knock off heads of the pro comp form being made in chine or australia, maybe they got one of those brands.
Ryan
A stroker would be no more prone than a normal stroke motor. Some set-ups require the block to be decked to get the proper deck height. The real culprit is in the cam timing and lift. Mainly the timing. Suppose you had a cam that opened a valve 2". Now if that valve opened up when the piston was at BDC there would be no PTV clearance issues whatsoever.

ProComp's are manufactured in China and marketed through Australia. No ProComps are manufactured in the U.S., but many are assembled here. The trick is to buy one from someone who assembles bare castings with quality components and maintains strict quality control to catch the bad castings.
That is what the listing I linked claims to be.
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