Ignition resistor wire removal 1973 torino

I'm not understanding something. Do I need to 'replace' the R/LG wire from the ignition switch to the junction block or 'add another' 14 gage wire along with the R/LG wire? Please excuse my ignorance as I do not understand automotive wiring. I do however want to have my car working properly.

Replace the resistor wire from the switch to the block but then as previously stated, include the bypass wire so the coil gets full 12volts while in the 'crank ' position.

I did the same procedure on my 69 but left the old resistor wire in the harness and ran a new red one from the switch forward.
Hope this helps....John

Why would this matter with an MSD setup?

The coil gets its power from the MSD, and the MSD gets its power right from the battery. (The large gauge + and - wires)
The small positive wire from the original coil + is just the trigger wire to turn the MSD box on.

If you're just running a hot coil and a factory style ignition that still uses the factory coil + wire to feed the coil, then I can see this being a good idea. Or like the OP with this wire feeding a RTR(ready to run) hot dizzy.

unrelated but you look like a wiring guy.
I have a 351 Boss, dual point.
I checked the total timing on it and wow was about 60+
So I unhooked the vacuum and set the total about 32 and initial is about 12
So all good. Took it for a drive and car feels like a dog won't pull hard.
Factory carb seems ok. But will not let the horses out.
I have had this problem before even with stock ford electronic, was 60 plus too
Everybody should be checking total timing not setting it at idle. I cant imagine how many motors ford wrecked with their crap ignition.
I am tempted to put MSD in but want to keep it stock, but if it wreckes the motor!!!!!
Good info on Torino - if anybody has 72 sport FB for sale let me know (4speed be a dream)