1,000 dollar GT40P's

That's about how much it will cost me.

It will have the larger exhaust valves. Stainless undercut stem valves. And a 5 angle job ported and polished. New springs keepers and retainers.

My plan is GT-40 tubular intake, ported lower, F303 camshaft, 1.6RR.

Will these heads even compare to a TFS or AFR 165? Cause for about 300 more bucks I can get them.

My plan is a B&G turbo kit to go on this set-up. I want 400-450 to the wheels. I have a Tremec TKO and 31 spline axels.

Don't waste your time and money with putting the work into the GT40Ps. The advantages of the out of the box aluminum heads are great.... Less weight, better flow, better resale...

If your money is tight, look around some more and you will find GT40's for near $600.00, ready to use.

You can get much better then the GT40 heads, buy a set of aftermarket iron heads for near the same $600 - $800.

GT40 heads was really just a Ford gimic, lots of porting work needed to make any real power.

Go aluminum aftermarket. The castings are heavier duty and aluminum will be a little more resistant to detonation...two serious considerations with the turbo setup.

400+ to the wheels should be easy, even with the stock cam.

Best as-cast heads for the money are RHS. They flow like ported heads out of the box...beautiful.
-J

Thanks guys.

I dont know what to do so many different options.

GT40-P heads are the smoothest and most refined stock Ford cast heads on production v8 pushrods that I have ever seen. I wonder if there is a better restrictive design street head out there. The ports are small for how much they flow and keep the velocity high. I got a set for a dual purpose car a buddy and I were doing up, but he... well he snatched the whole car away and said "mine! mine! mine" after I had sunk about $2400? I had almost finished my P heads. I had them done up I mean everything, high quality. I put so many hours picking the right part after talking to various shops titanium retainers, large arp studs & guide plates, polished, bronze-phosper solid guides (not split) I got to be there druing all machine shop operations for QC and to learn. It was great but cost me a bunch. In a few years when I build *my* car it will be purpose build drag engine no street use no legal, and the P heads just wont fit that purpose. Strangely I am selling them for that 1k mark, but I have put *quite* a bit more cash into them not to mention the best everything yadda yadda oh did I mention hardnened seats on exhaust 5 angle? ss undercut swirl poslihed manley etc! ONly thing not done was choose spings, therefore no cut on spring seat meaining you have 100% choice
FORD GT40P heads GT 40 P Mustang Explorer 40P Cylinder Heads GT40 P
sorry to try to sell something but it seemed topical? Also I think they are best heads for street strip dual purpose smog legal daily driver get decent milage wherever you get them.

Oh and there is a great difference between the GT40 and GT40p heads. Al is great too but you have to consider they are more delicate less forgiving they can easliy warp when overheated once, metalization, thread strippage... there are always some issues when using different types of metal together (ex: iron & al) they tend to plate to each other. AL heads give up some power when compared to exact iron design.. Both have their place

BTW You could easliy obtian your hp target with the P heads if you choose to go that way.

1,000 is a lot you can get them here for about 600

Tri-State Cylinder Head - Chevy, Ford, Small Block, Performance, Aluminum Cylinder Heads.

I would personally get AFR's though

If you factor in the cost to get those $600 sets up to par its not $600 any more. Totally stock Ford explorer=ok, but then if you want to use them in performance application you need adj valvetrain: roller rockers that means machining the stock rocker pedistals down, drilling tapping buying guide plates, studs etc, and if you want to get hot (not NA) you just might want hardned seats, and exh. valves with an extra fat margin

And its nice to get new guides since just knurling them like 99% rehash jobs dont cut it

And its also nice to polish the cc and maybe mill the deck for trueness and up the cr

And on andon
My set has all that stuff done that unfortuantely for me I paid for... on a set of heads for a buddy-buddy project car! aw live and learn