Idle problem AGAIN!! NO WAY?

This is a 5.0. SIX CYLINDER!!! HUH?? I know were #19 is at but did not know what it did. I was fiddling one day just trying to visually find the problem when I ran across this wire and found it to be connected but VERY, VERY loose as if getting ready to break or fall off. This thing is a mother to get to but let me see what I can do. Report back shortly. Oh, bye the way, THANKS a lot!! for the help

Originally Posted by flocko

This is a 5.0. SIX CYLINDER!!! HUH?? I know were #19 is at but did not know what it did. I was fiddling one day just trying to visually find the problem when I ran across this wire and found it to be connected but VERY, VERY loose as if getting ready to break or fall off. This thing is a mother to get to but let me see what I can do. Report back shortly. Oh, bye the way, THANKS a lot!! for the help

Nope , Mistaken slack in wire for loose. Every thing fine with wire.

Chased both sets of O2 sensor wires until they become one at a plug at the A/C relays on passeng. side . Unplug them and all loos good. Dialectric still plyable and no bent or broke pins.

Need to monitor the actual signal voltage from the O2s. Assuming fuel pressure was checked and is within specs (35-45 psi), no vacuum leaks are present (which you should check for), and the non existence of an open breather on the valve cover with the PCV functional (unmetered air condition = vacuum leak)....... you could follow the test steps of the next diagram...... keep in mind that even though a 4-wire HEGO is shown, the tests apply to your 3-wire O2 sensors.

Ran another KOER. As follows:

FFFF VERY LONG IDLE FF**FFFF*F*FFFFFFFFF*F*FFFF*F*FFFFFFFFF (as u can see , I now have an eight cylin.) Ha, must have missed a flash





Ran another KOEO. As follows:

FF**F**F**F**F*****F**FFFF**F**FFFFFFFFF**F**FFFF* *F**FFFFFFFFF You get the picture. Still a 41/91. Only thing gained is in koer that I now have an 8 cyl. Thought I could count cylinders!!!! In the top koer the 2 ff after the long idle are SUPER fast flashes. Almost would miss them if not really staring at them . The kind of flash you would see from a "short" Seems odd that those 2 ff dont flash like other fs

Originally Posted by Joel50

Need to monitor the actual signal voltage from the O2s. Assuming fuel pressure was checked and is within specs (35-45 psi), no vacuum leaks are present (which you should check for), and the non existence of an open breather on the valve cover with the PCV functional (unmetered air condition = vacuum leak)....... you could follow the test steps of the next diagram...... keep in mind that even though a 4-wire HEGO is shown, the tests apply to your 3-wire O2 sensors.

Ok, now im lost. What is EGO in relation to HEGO. Are these tests done while engine running? IE: Diag. say "engine at temp". Are we talkin the connector at the O2 it self? All previous statements about fuel press. vacume ETC. are fine.

To late in the evening to get into major testing of HEGOS. Start again tomorrow. Been at it since 10 this morn. Just for a moment , lest pretend HEGO`S test out fine and wiring is fine. Is it possiable that injectors could cause code issues(lean 41/91) Also , I notice what i consider to be a strong odor of gas on oil dip stick?? I have a hard time with the fact that two brand new O2s would be bad inside 3 weeks. Now, with that said, I donot have a hard time with the fact that I could have a wire problem TO the O2s on a 16 year old car.

Originally Posted by flocko

To late in the evening to get into major testing of HEGOS. Start again tomorrow. Been at it since 10 this morn. Just for a moment , lest pretend HEGO`S test out fine and wiring is fine. Is it possiable that injectors could cause code issues(lean 41/91) Also , I notice what i consider to be a strong odor of gas on oil dip stick?? I have a hard time with the fact that two brand new O2s would be bad inside 3 weeks. Now, with that said, I donot have a hard time with the fact that I could have a wire problem TO the O2s on a 16 year old car.

I've had to replace new O2 sensors (wideband or A/F sensors included), after confirming they were defective out of the box. Brand new parts could be as defective, or worse, than the part they replace.

Well ALL RIGHTY then. True, there is the possiabilty that they were bad out of box. Can you adress the testing prcedures a little more?

From the diagram:

#3 checks for the O2 sensor heater element integrity .

#4 checks for the presence of power to the heater element and the integrity of the PWR GND circuit.

#1 checks the signal output from the O2 under normal conditions.

#2 checks for the O2 signal change causing an obvious lean condition..... in your case, you would have to cause an obvious rich condition.... due to the lean codes.