Progress of RatStang

7/9/05

After 5 days of prepping using Drills, sanders, and hand sanding,
Well after six hours in the paint suit thursday day I got the engine compartment floor pans etc. painted. Here is some pictures for you guys
there is 1 coat redoxide zero rust
and 3 coats black zero rust

Before


After







Richard
[addsig]

8/4/05
I got the Undercarriage done well I got what was left sealed “fusor800” and sprayed “zerorust” and I prepped in sprayed another coat on the rest of it

Upper left and right view of engine compartment



Left and right side view



Front center
"note were it looks white it is really black on the last picture in this list"





Rear center



Rear left and right




Left and right wheel housings



If you notice the shiny black parts that is were the fusor800 urethane sealer is applied Protecting welds seams etc.

It is weird how there is not even one Nut, Bolt, Screw, Washer, Etc, on the whole car

Now I am working on stripping down all of the Interior

The pictures don’t do it any justice

Richard
[addsig]

8/18/05

Well I have been stripping down the interior By hand “Cant get any tools in there with all the little nukes and crannies” so I had to hand sand every thing With 80 and 150 grit Sand Paper. I have got just about all of it prepped for paint got a few more hours of work to do.

First I washed it all down With Dish Detergent.

Then I wiped it all down with Wax and Grease Remover. (Can’t ever get it to clean for paint)

Then I scraped all the factory Spray on Seam Sealer out.

Then I Wiped all the Seam Sealer residue off with Wax and Grease Remover.

Then I wire brushed all the Rust buildup off.

Then I sprayed all of the rust down with Phosphoric acid I like POR15 Metal-Ready “Eats the Rust out of the Steel”.

Then I washed the Phosphoric acid off with water.
Then I dried it. and sprayed it instantly with Zinc Phosphate I like to use Zero Rusts Prep step “If you don’t spray it down right after you wash it the phosphoric acids leave the metal exposed and the hole panel well have Flash Rust in under Two Hours But the Prep step well coat all of it with Zinc Phosphate and it well etch the hole surface for paint”.

Then I started Sanding it all down with 80 grit sand paper.

Then I Scuffed all of the EDP Primer (ElectrodePositioned) With 150 grit sand paper
And were I could not get the sand paper I scuffed it all down with a scuff pad “like a scotch brite pad” just finer.

I had to weld in one patch in there Rear Floor and Weld a few spot welds I missed.

I hope to have it Painted this weekend. But I guess it well just get done when I get to it.

After about Seventeen Hours Of hand sanding This is were I am













Richard
[addsig]

Well I stayed up tell 10:00 pm working on it last night and got to it at 11:00 am

I Finished up what welding I could find. Seat Belt Nut Plates, Inner Fender Apron, etc.

Then I scuffed the Wheel Housings.
And scuffed the ceiling and a few places I missed.

Then I Sanded down all the paint were the heat from welding destroyed.

Then I started cleanup I Vacuumed the whole car out front to back, top to bottom.

Then I dragged the hose to the garage and sprayed the whole car down

Then I got some Dish Detergent and scrubbed the whole car down I like to use a grout sponge because there a lot tougher then most sponges
You can find a tile grout sponge at any local hardware store.





Then I blow dried the whole car with a cheap $25.00 Leaf blower from WalMart
Best way to dry a car without leaving a bunch of water spots.


Then I used my Sprayer “garden sprayer bought for my car” and sprayed some zinc phosphate “zero rust Prep Step” to prevent over night flash rust.







I am going to go out in the morning and seal all the seams with my Urethane fusor 800
Seam Sealer. Then maybe spray.


Richard
[addsig]

8/24/05

I got out there at 10:00 am and Got started.

First off I Vacuumed it all down

Then I wiped it all down with Wax And Grease Remover

Then I sealed all the seams With Fusor800 urethane sealer working front to back this took about 4 hours

Then I Vacuumed it all down again to get all the dirt my shoes drug in when I was sealing

And wiped it all down with Wax And Grease Remover Again

Then I drug all my painting equipment out , paint gun, mixing cups, strainers, Fresh air respirator, air lines, Fans, Etc.

Then I got my tack rag and tacked right before I sprayed “Tack a panel then spray and move on to the next panel”

I sprayed the firewall, and the rear seat, and the ceiling, Making sure not to trap myself “Remember you have to at least put 2 coats on so you cant get back in the car if you do the floors” let flash and sprayed those three areas again and then again.

Then I did the trunk Let flash and sprayed it again, flashed then again.

Then I did the speaker part, All the sides, flashed then sprayed again

Then I sprayed the floors Flashed sprayed, then again

All this took 8 Hours 24 minutes

Here is the before pictures After sealing










After spraying



























The pictures don’t do it any justice at all





Richard
[addsig]

Well Since I could not get any good pictures on the 20th (Overcast) I figured id let it cure for a few days then try to get you guys some better pictures. They came out a little better but steal don’t do it any justice. I need to get a live witness any one want to drive down here. [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_lol.gif[/img]
It is not fully Cured and that is why it look Wet and Spotted.


Trunk passenger side



Trunk Driver side



Rear center


Rear floor Driver


Rear floor Passenger


Floor Driver


Floor Passenger


Front Center


Rear Center



Richard

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(Hours Spent On RatStang "931&quot[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif[/img]


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ixtlan on 9/13/05 9:23am ]</font>

wow...just wow. That's alot of work, looks like you've got the tools and know-how. Should be a new car when you get through with it.

Do you know of anywhere that has a good step-by-step on how to do the quarters? I need to do mine sometime soon, or have them done, they're getting pretty rough.

Also, what size wire do you use in the mig welder? I use a Miller 130 welder with .030 wire when using the gas, it seems to want to burn through very easily. I was thinking of trying some smaller wire (.027 I think) and see if it helps. I've tried the power at all different settings, only has 1-4, 1 &amp; 2 seem just enough to melt the wire to the panel but not actually weld anything, 3 &amp; 4 burn through too easy.

Well i have tried .027 to .030 and the only way I found to stop burn through is to leap frog do a tack jump 4 inches do it again then go back it looks like a clean continuous weld and for spot welding I drill a small hole and do a little bit of the weld stop wait for it to not be red and do it again and again till the weld is complete


Richard

_________________
(Hours Spent On RatStang "927&quot[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif[/img]


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ixtlan on 8/31/05 1:08am ]</font>

All I can say is [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_bow.gif[/img] [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_bow.gif[/img] [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_bow.gif[/img]... Nice work !!!
[addsig]

here is the one i used for the Quarter Panel
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/26739/index1.html
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/26739/index.html
There not great but they are there

And here is the one for the Rear Frame
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/projec...653/index.html

[addsig]