Well I got started on the Body Solder/Leading on the passenger side quarter panel on Monday it took me a while to get use to leading but I got it now
I would not recommend Leading for modern day high carbon steels that are put on newer cars
you have to prep the surface it has to be clean and free of any Paint, Primer, Etc. I started by using 80 grit on my Polisher/Sander
Then I wiped the surface down with Wax and Grease Remover (Wipe on Wipe Off)
Then you have to test the metal for heat flex
You heat it up with your torch if the metal starts to dive inward you have to take the torch off of it so that you don't cause it to oil can. You want the metal to go belly out come towards the heat from the torch
Let it cool
Then you have to heat the whole surface
Then you apply your tinned butter If you don't the lead well not stick to the metal
And you have to heat it up enough to get the tin in the butter to solder to the surface then with the tin hot you need to move it around with steel wool or bronze wool I recommend bronze wool so your not putting the rust into the surface from the steel wool
Then you have to let it cool
Then go over it with lacquer thinner
Then with baking soda water to disable all the acids in the tinning butter
then you reheat all the surface
At this time you well want to tallow you paddles
grab your lead bars keep the surface hot
Heat the lead bar tip 1/4 to 1/2 inch at a time
Then you want to press the melted tip of the bar into the surface and twist the bar to break the tip off
You are going to have to do this tell you fill the crack
Then you try to heat all of the lead (not way to hot were it starts to melt but just to were it looks shiny
Then grab your tallowed paddle and shape it (its a lot like putting frosting on a cake but it has to be 600*F to get the frosting to move [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img] )
You got to remember that lead is a incredible heat sink so it well melt from the center out so it well drip inside its self ones you lead you well know what I am talking about
you want to shape it as good as you can lead is not easy to shape with a file at all
If you have a part that has a dip in it that you need to raise heat
the surface tell it starts to get shiny if you get it to hot it well melt under itself and well become misshapen
Then you do the same thing heat this tip of the bar and jab it into it lightly then twist
Keep the whole surface hot grab your tallowed paddle and shape it
One thing you got to remember if it is to hot it well melt to its self if it is to cool the lead wont stick so if you don't keep the whole surface hot then the lead as you drag it with your paddle wont stick to the surface that is to cool and it well crack and break
Then you want to come over it shape it with the file
Then you want to sand all of the lead to shape it to were you want it start with 40 grit and then move up to 80 grit
You want to clean all of the surrounding surface with Metal Wash, Zero Rust Prep Step, or Metal Prep, or all of the metal surface surrounding the lead well be covered in surface rust caused by the acids in the lead
But remember safety guys Lead well not harm your hands or skin but it well give you lead poisoning if you breath the dusts or take lead internally in any way And the acids in the lead and in the tinned butter well harm you to so were a dust mask for sanding and use a charcoal filter for the acids
I were a full face supplied air respirator or a full face mask with filters approved for dust and some fumes at all times whether I am sanding lead based paints or any paints for that matter and when I spraying paints working with acids etc.
I try to support my hobby with less then 50-70$ a month so you don't have to have a lot of money to buy good safety equipment and to do a good job
Here is the other side for example of before
And after
Richard
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(Hours Spent On RatStang "970" )
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ixtlan on 9/22/05 2:46am ]</font>
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