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01-03-2006, 07:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
fordduh
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 48
new to motors

i got a 73 351c 2v motor out of a ranchero. it's locked up i've drained alot of water removed the heads. the heads are in good shape. all the bolts have broke loose with ease. the head casting # is d1ae there is also cb and the number 23 and of course the 2 for 2v. my first question is what version 2v head is this? second i'd like to keep it streetable but new mach1 eatable how about some pointers and suggestions on muscling this motor. happy new years any help is greatly appreciated [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_frown.gif[/img]
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01-04-2006, 05:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
dacofa
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Western Pa
Posts: 2,388
new to motors

First you need to find out why it's locked up. Bearings or rusted bores? If bores, the block might be history already unless you want to sleeve it. Heads are to bad for street. Just have them milled for rocker arm studs and drilled out to 3/8" or 7/16" for the studs. Polish the ports and valve job. Good manifold and cam with headers, redo the ignition system. Probably get a honest 300HP out of it in mild form.
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01-04-2006, 07:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
Humphrey351
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 600
new to motors

The heads being 2V are about 75 to 77 cc open combustion chambers, valves are 2.04intake/1.67exhaust. Not the greatest heads for the street, but by no means the worst one to use. 4V heads are better for the strip, 2V are better for the street giving you a better low end. The Australian heads are much better, 2V ports and valves, 4V quench combustion chamber...giving you higher compression ratio...but you can still work some nice respsectable numbers using the 2V factory heads. Now if you drained water out of it, and it's locked up, my opinion is you are looking at some serious rebuilding going on, which for an engine that is 30 plus years old, is a good thing. If there is light rust in the cylinders, you'll want to rebore the engine (so long as the walls are not pitted), check the pistons to see if it's been previously bored. You can go out to .060 in a Cleveland, they are thicker walled then the Windsor (all the books I've read say that) Some will tell you the oiling sytem in the Cleveland is bad, but for the most part, for the street it works fine, if you want to up the oiling sytem, there are companies, and individuals that offer aftermarket kits that are fairly straight forward and easy to install. You may also look into a good high volume iol pump, and a stronger oil pump drive shaft (from ARP or another manufacturer), and a good water pump too.

Here is a "recipe" for a good combo engine from the book "How to build max performance Ford V-8's on a budget"

351C block bored .030 over
forged aluminum flat top pistons (the book said giving 9.25 compression)
the cam is custom (but you should be able to find a similar profile in a regular manufacturer)
Lobe center: 110.0
Lift: 0.560" intake
0.585" exhaust
Duration: 232.0 Intake
236.0 Exhaust
Hydraulic Flat tappet (a roller can offer you more now a days, so explore those options too)
Valvetrain: Screw in studs/guide plates/ Adjustable (didn't say in the article is they are roller tip or not)
351C 2V heads: didn't mention any porting or polishing
Intake: Edelbrock dual plane using a Holley 750cfm carb
Ignition:MSD
Exhaust: Hedman Headers
Now granted there is a lot of details omitted in the article, such as if there was any head work, what were the rocker arms (roller or not) and the exact MSD type of system used, but it's a good starting point.
They dyno'd it at: 405 horsepower @ 6000RPM
: 420lbs of torque @ 5000RPM
Now for a more realistic number, for daily driving RPM, which is closer to 3500 to 4500 RPM's, the engine produced around 300 horsepower and almost 400lbs of torque...still very respectable. Like I said, check out the manufacturers, get a good roller cam, maybe think of the Aussie 2V, or the new Edelbrock aluminum heads, and explore. But the 2V is a good starting point for plenty of usable power, just clean them up, and have a shop check them over. Your choice if you want to mill them or not to up the compression, but there are plenty of piston makers out there that have ones available to give you a good streetable compression ratio in the 9:1+ ratio.
Good luck and keep us posted on your choices!
Mike






<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Humphrey351 on 1/5/06 9:46am ]</font>
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