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Choke on my Autolite 2100 is driving me NUTS!!!!!
As mentioned in the page, not all carbs are the same. I have to use the clip to hold my float pin in place otherwise everything would fall loose inside and flood.
The thing here is that someone is trusting the coiled bi-metal spring int he choke housing is OK. Over years is takes a lot more heat in order for the untwisting to occur. Thus if you adjust things as per the book, which was written decades ago, and the parts hadn't that many hot days against them, then things work as explained. If you expect to install the used items which you have in hand, you must compensate. Thus on mine, I do not set the choke plate as tight as mentioned, but wider. For the Bi-metal coild is not going to unwind as far when engine is warm. I live near Palm Springs, and BOY, once hot, and going hotter, the coil does unwind fully.
We all tend to use the parts we have at hand. Voltage regulators are especially bad. For their specifications are based upon absolutely new contacts and a unit that was built only a week ago. Never have seen specifications for air gap based upon burnt contacts. We used to just polish the contacts up with sandpaper, then with V.O.M. or other meter, bend and set them. Did not need to remove anything, and usually took 20 minutes to loacte the test equipment, then five to adjust it all. Next morning had fully charged battery, and drove off to work w/o delay.
Really need a book on how to use or adjust what you own instead of what is pictured.
Wm.
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