Transmission rebuild ...

Glad to hear that the tranny is running better - you did a good job rebuilding it! and learned a few good lessons along the way.
Yes, I recommend external coolers. I recommend the big coolersfor a stock tranny with a stock motor use a cooler with 12000 lb towing capacity or larger. For a modified tranny or any tranny behind a modified motor use one that is rated 24000 lbs or more. You will never run a transmission too cold unless you live in north Alaska or the south pole. In-line transmission filters are also good to install. If you want to run the cooler in the radiator and an external cooler I recommend that you cut the supply side of the cooler line (from the front fitting on the tranny) and go through the external cooler first and then back to the radiator cooler and out the other side to the rear fitting on the tranny. That will cool your oil more and help the radiator stay cool too. If you add the in-line filter (it is a special unit made for the transmission) then install it in the other cooler line (the one that goes to the rear fitting on the tranny) that will remove any contaminants before it gets to the tranny rear lube circuit.
Dextron III will burn at 50 degrees lower temperature than type "F". Always use type "F" if it is available. If it isn't available then Dextron III or Mercon will work as long as you keep it cool. If the oil starts to turn brown and smell bad, change the oil and get a larger cooler on right away. Dextron allows too much slipage and that causes heat. You need to get rid of that heat or you will be rebuilding the tranny again.
Paul

Well I'm about to give up. Since my last post I've had the trans out three times to replace the front seal and the pump bolts were not tight. The next time again I replaced the seal and all of the bolts could be removed without a wrench, not even finger tight. Well guess what. Its leaking again from the bellhousing, but we're getting real good at it taking it out. (out and back in less than fours. The last time it was out I used thread lock. Could there be cracks in the trans tapped holes? I can torque to specs (20ft. lbs.) without any problem, so what gives? I'm about to purchase a reman and give up on this one. I'm only out the cost of a rebuild kit and several weekends. It will last about a week or so before it gives out. My son (the daily driver of the stang) thinks the engine is too much for the trans. (wants a C6) How much trouble is that to install instead of the C4? (289 engine). Also the trans will shift up ok, but tends to shift down real hard and will shift out of 3rd to 2nd slowing down at around 30 mph. What's causing the hard shift down? Where (who?) has the best deals on transmissions?


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: my67mustake on 10/21/06 9:53am ]</font>

Engine isn't to big for the trans. C-4 will handle lots of HP and abuse. The threads could be stripped in the alumunium housing. That's not hard to do. As for a rebuilt trans, how's the funding and where do you live?

humm sounds fimilar to me.... haha.... stupid transmission

love your son