429 into a 1973 mustang

[SIZE=2]Hi Guys,
I'm working on a project and need some help. I just finished building a 1971 CJ motor and dropped it into my 1973 stang. Now I need help mounting it. I was surprised to find Autozone still sells motor mounts for a 1971 mustang 429 so I pickup a set and bolted them to the motor. Now what do I do???? I have no problem fabing stuff and I'm pretty good with a welder so any ideas work be welcome!!


Nina XOXOOX
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Drop it in. Do you have a transmission for it?

Hi Stu,

Yes I do, T-56. It's already attacked to the engine and installed. Right now it's just sitting in the engine bay. I have the engine leveled right to left and front to back. Now what do I do???

Nina XOOX

Sounds to me like it's time to start bolting things together.

See what fits/works and see what doesn't.

When you find something that doesn't ... then make it work.

There is a thread on here somewhere from my swap.

Well off the top of my head: You need to look at the trans crossmember to see if you need to adapt it. The drive shaft/yoke combo will need to be looked at as I don't think the T 56 will be the same as the original yoke. What are you doing for a clutch pedal etc? was the car originally a stick or Auto? I'd figure a hydraulic clutch setup would be a good idea but obviously what you do will depend on what you have to work with etc.
How did you adapt the T 56 to the 429? Was it a kit?

[SIZE=2]Hey Stu,

Thanks for writing back :-)

Okay I've already fabbed a cross member for the trans. It was pretty easy. As far as the driveshaft, I'm sent that out once I get the engine to be shortened and fitted with the correct yoke. The car was originally an auto, but before the 429 I had a 302 with a T-5. In that case I used a cable for the clutch. However, with the 429 I'll fab clutch linkage, It's too bad they don't pop new ones. I guess things I need to know is measuring from the shock towers where should the center of the carb be. Also, how far back from the radiator support should the center of the carb be. Once I know that I'll be able to fab some supports for the motor mounts.

I mounted the trans to the behousing the adaptor sold at NPD. Work sweet!!!!!!! Yes I know what you're thinking that 429SCJ is going to turn that trans in to scrap. Well I'm a cruiser not a racer ;-)

Thanks for any help you can give me,

Nina XOOXOX
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Disclaimer: I don't know what you are going to use for a Radiator/Fan/Shroud.

That said ...

I positioned my motor in the bay using my transmission mount (mine stayed factory) ... then I installed a factory BB ford fan shroud with a factory clutch fan on the motor.

Using those basic locators I then positioned the engine in the bay so the the fan would fit properly in the shroud while the trans mount positioned the rear. I did not worry about any measurements front to back or side to side ... I more or less let the factory parts select the proper position.

Once I had those points set to my satisfaction I fabbed frame pedistals to meet up with the motor mounts on the engine.

I'll see if I can rumage up a PIC of the pedistals I fabbed.

Link to the thread on my swap ... maybe some helpful info and a lot of general discussion


http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/gar...-assembly.html

This is what I fabbed ...

Sounds like you have your fabrication skills in hand but this is what I did.

I started with a plate which fits directly onto the factory pedistal position in the cross member.

I installed bolts/studs into the plate so it bolts to the factory holes in the crossmember.

I installed a section of thick wall steel tube onto the motor mount cross-bolt.

I then used 3/16" steel plate to fab up what you see in the PIC ...

The way these work the motor mount rests on the pedistal so the bolt itself is not supporting the weight of the motor.

These can be easily removed if anyone wanted to return the car to a factory style motor mount situation.

Another potential issue regarding engine placement ...

I am running FPA headers ... The driver side header had a slight clearance issue with the steering gear box. Clearance was so slight that a piece of paper could be slipped between, but when running there was some occasional clunking going on. I had to clearance the header just a little to eliminate the problem.

Point being ... you might want to keep header clearance especially on the driver side in mind as you work through the final decision on exact engine placement.

Put a TQ strap on the left side of the engine and built a 3/8" or 1/2" fuel line. Make sure it's also bigger in the fuel tank. Headers, 71 Stang/Torinos will fit.