351c 4v into 66 coupe

pictures?

Current 410 setup with Strip Dommy intake so I use a scoop hood now



Crappy Tubular Auto headers I took off



3 piece motor mounts



Headers (very close, I did grind a little of the one flange to keep from touching and put a couple bumps in the 2 tubes to make it easier to get them in)




This is from before I ground the flange a little bit on the corner


Fully installed with old xcelerator intake


Underside (best photo of the FPT headers)


If you want to use an AOD I know for a fact that the Ford Power Train headers clear it ok. I also know that you don't want to use a stock AOD, you will want to upgrade it to a 1 piece input shaft, eliminate the lock up converter, add the extra clutches, etc...because the stock AOD is relatively weak....my 408 and 410 stroker have both broken heavily beefed up trannys....with that said I think it is a good choice because you can run a high numberic gear in the rear and still maintain fuel economy, so you will be able to hit the hole fast and still cruise on the highway

I just did this swap last winter in my '66 coupe, it's tight. I used the three piece motor mounts and the FPA headers like Dodgestang suggested. I'm running the stock bellhousing and Z-bar linkage with an adapter for a T5Z 5 speed trans with an aftermarket crossmember. I did the A-arm drop and used 620lb springs on the front with an Export brace, MonteCarlo bar, subframe connectors and I welded in torque boxes on both sides. I'm using a aluminum Northern rad from Summit (direct bolt-in for a "66) with the bottom hose on the drivers side, a fan shroud and I was able to use stock '70 Mustang radiator hoses with just a little trimming on the top hose.

I tried to keep it looking as stock as possible but I did take about a half inch off both shocktowers where they bulge out behind the upper A-arms. I welded a plate back in so they have a flat area instead of a bulge. It didn't give a lot more room but the extra 1/2" on each side is a big help, but it's still tight. I will still have to lift the motor a little to change plugs. I also added the adjustable eccentrics on the lower suspension arms to adjust camber because with the motor in you can't get to the upper A-arm bolts. I still need to add adjustable strutrods so I can adjust caster also.

Since I started with a 6cyl. I upgraded the front brakes to stock V8 four piston discs and the rearend is a narrowed 9 inch out of a '73 Mustang with the stock 10" x 2" drums.

It's not the swap to do if you don't enjoy modifying or fabricating things.

Now that it's all back together it's great. The car runs real strong, handles well stops good considering it's all stock Ford parts. As Dodgestang will probably agree you just can't beat Cleveland horsepower.

Good luck

this may seem like a dumb question, but, should I put the headers on before I drop the motor in? Im usting the fpt headers.

Originally Posted by afurlong

this may seem like a dumb question, but, should I put the headers on before I drop the motor in? Im usting the fpt headers.

I had a 54 ford placing a 427 tunnelport motor in the car . I tried using the 428 cj manifolds , liked one inch being able to put motor supports in .
I tried a set of headers I had , still not fit . I tired ever set I had , nothing . So I ordered a set of hooker headers one piece and all fit like it should after I put the motor in .
I put headers on after motor only because I had headers easy for a big block as well . I did hook up top loader to motor and put motor and tranny in with different manifoilds but not enough room .
I normally put the manifoilds on before I set the motor in , depends on the car . A big block room is limited and I use hookers one piece that wraps around the starter and such .

Originally Posted by afurlong

this may seem like a dumb question, but, should I put the headers on before I drop the motor in? Im usting the fpt headers.

This unfortunately is not physically possible.

When I install the motor I drop it into the bay, cheat it over to the driver side as much as possible and then install the passenger header. I then mount it on the passenger side mount with only a couple threads on and 1 bolt through the frame mount. I then drop it onto the driverside mount, reposition my chains to the driver side head and then lift it off the driverside mount and pivot it up slightly (basically rotating on the passenger side frame mount). I then install the driver side header. I also have a 3/8 wrench that I put in my vise and pounded with a sledge a bit to put a slight 30 degree or so angle on it which makes tightening up the header bolts easier. Once done, I drop it back onto the mounts and then torque the mounts and frame brackets.

BTW you have to slide the headers up from the bottom in case that wasn't clear

thank you. this is great to have this advice from someone who did the exact swap Im doing! So, I am having the c4 rebuilt right now and a stage 2 shift kit put in. When I get it back I was planning to get it bolted up to the motor and drop them in connected. Is this possible? and how would you suggest I rig it? Also, I know you said to use 3 piece motor mounts from a 65, would it a good idea to use the adjustable motor mounts I see available?.....I'm trying to think of as much as I can, I want to get this done right. Those pics you posted are awesome, they help a lot, I will post some tomorrow.

Originally Posted by afurlong

thank you. this is great to have this advice from someone who did the exact swap Im doing! So, I am having the c4 rebuilt right now and a stage 2 shift kit put in. When I get it back I was planning to get it bolted up to the motor and drop them in connected. Is this possible? and how would you suggest I rig it? Also, I know you said to use 3 piece motor mounts from a 65, would it a good idea to use the adjustable motor mounts I see available?.....I'm trying to think of as much as I can, I want to get this done right. Those pics you posted are awesome, they help a lot, I will post some tomorrow.

I've never installed it with the tranny attached, I usually have the tranny in place however people often install motors and transmission together.

I've never used the adjustable motor mounts so I can't speak to that.

so, dodgestang, did you do any modifications to the shock towers? or just the header flange?

Originally Posted by afurlong

so, dodgestang, did you do any modifications to the shock towers? or just the header flange?

I didn't do anything to the shock towers.

I ground a small relief on the flange about 2 inches long, basically just took the point of the corner where it was touching the tower when I bolted it in. I also dimpled 2 of the tubes just to make sure they were not touching anything. Then I took them out and had them coated and I've been using them ever since. Had the motor out at least a half dozen times since I did the first install.