351C 4V - Rebuild - to utilize large heads

I'm planning to rebuild my 351C-4V. Balance it & install forged pistons. Install a cam with similar specs to the 1971 351 boss motor. I would like to install a roller cam system instead of the solid lifter setup.
Anyone installed roller cams into a cleveland? I would like to build it to rev into the 6-7K range to utilize the large ports of the heads. Any headers available for clevelands?

Headers - plenty are out there. What car?
You don't need a roller to spin a 351C to 6 - 7K. If you use a roller, you'll need link bar lifters at least - don't think you need a reduced base circle cam. Check with Crane or Comp on that issue.

My 351C 4V makes about 480 HP with a solid lifter cam, 650DP, 4V heads @ 10.5:1. I shift it at 6500.

Originally Posted by ckelly

Headers - plenty are out there. What car?
You don't need a roller to spin a 351C to 6 - 7K. If you use a roller, you'll need link bar lifters at least - don't think you need a reduced base circle cam. Check with Crane or Comp on that issue.

My 351C 4V makes about 480 HP with a solid lifter cam, 650DP, 4V heads @ 10.5:1. I shift it at 6500.

You didnt mention any 1/4 mile times. How well does it run? A friend used to mess with clevelands alot. He ran a similar combo, quench heads, 12:1, decent solid cam, 780DP, C-4, 4.86. He found it made even more HP and picked up time shifting it at 7200! Those big port heads like rpms and were really slugs on the street with no gear. I have a 71 Mach 1 I am building for my wife (someday, too many projects). It has a 70 351C 4v Quench engine. I was actually considering running the 2V heads for a milder street motor. Sounds cool though. Keep them Clevelands going!

7.29 @ 94 MPH 1/8 mile. They are not "real slugs on the street with no gear." The last 4V I built used open chamber heads, 9.3:1, dual plane intake, small hydro cam, 750 Holley. Car ran low 8.40s in the 1/8 mile in a 3350 lb car with a 3.25 gear and street tires. Tap the throttle on an unprepped surface like a regular street and it'd spin the car around. It's all in the tune up.

The current 4V uses closed chamber heads with Parker port tongues and a Funnelweb intake. I'm very methodical with my shift point selection - with the current cam and gear, 6500 gives the best ET. 7000 loses .02, 7200 .03. 6300 loses .01, 6000 kills .05. Every car/engine is different.

1970 mustang 4speed

351C -4V
Boys, my car is a 1970 mustang. The reason for going to rollers is to stay with hydraulics. I don't care to mess around adjusting valve lash. Say, what's your cam specs that you used when revving up to 7K? Did you have to buy lighter valves & increase spring strength? Did you stay with stock lifter ratios?
headers;
The shock towers must get in the way of headers. There is barely enough room now to change plugs. Can shaving the towers just above the top control arm give enough room? The only after market notch kit I found comes from RRS. You have to buy their coilovers. Their setup eliminates the upper control arm.

Originally Posted by camcruise

351C -4V
Boys, my car is a 1970 mustang. The reason for going to rollers is to stay with hydraulics. I don't care to mess around adjusting valve lash. Say, what's your cam specs that you used when revving up to 7K? Did you have to buy lighter valves & increase spring strength?

Based on this comment I'll chime in to say make sure that if you are doing a rebuild to also make sure you replace the stock 2 piece valves in the heads and install at the Min new springs/keeps/etc to match whatever cam you put in. Ideally I think you would want to upgrade to roller rockers as well.

Originally Posted by camcruise

The shock towers must get in the way of headers. There is barely enough room now to change plugs. Can shaving the towers just above the top control arm give enough room? The only after market notch kit I found comes from RRS. You have to buy their coilovers. Their setup eliminates the upper control arm.

If I can put a Cleveland in my 65 without touching the shock towers and not have a problem changing plugs....
Anyway, no the towers are not in the way and you do not need to shave them.

Originally Posted by camcruise

351C -4V
Boys, my car is a 1970 mustang. The reason for going to rollers is to stay with hydraulics. I don't care to mess around adjusting valve lash. Say, what's your cam specs that you used when revving up to 7K? Did you have to buy lighter valves & increase spring strength? Did you stay with stock lifter ratios?
headers;
The shock towers must get in the way of headers. There is barely enough room now to change plugs. Can shaving the towers just above the top control arm give enough room? The only after market notch kit I found comes from RRS. You have to buy their coilovers. Their setup eliminates the upper control arm.

I have a 351C in our 70 Mustang and one in the Falcon. Plug changes not not a big deal, the middle two are a bit tight for a guy with big hands but nothing special. You can shave the towers if you like.
The Mustang engine:


If you install ANY performance cam you should assume you'll be installing compatible springs and retainers. Hydro roller lifters are very heavy and you'll have to run premium parts, springs, etc to control the valve train at high RPM.

The Falcon uses the solid cam - I don't "mess with valve lash" - I use quality parts, set it and run it. Unless I suspect a problem there is no need to check the lash with any regularity. Maybe once a year.

Cam specs (Crane 521141) are 238/248 @ .050 (300/310 advertised) .554/.577 lift. I use crane double springs recommended for the cam - 130 seat, 360 open, Ferrea 5000 stainless valves and Isky EDM lifters. I used titanium retainers on this build because I got a really good deal on them with the springs - chrome moly would have worked just as well. Rockers are Harland Sharp 1.73 ratio.

The whole build is on our web site. The Kelly's Hotrod page

As dodge said, you should always replace the stock valves (and guides) if you intend to spin a 351C.

Originally Posted by ckelly

I have a 351C in our 70 Mustang and one in the Falcon. Plug changes not not a big deal, the middle two are a bit tight for a guy with big hands but nothing special. You can shave the towers if you like.
The Mustang engine:


If you install ANY performance cam you should assume you'll be installing compatible springs and retainers. Hydro roller lifters are very heavy and you'll have to run premium parts, springs, etc to control the valve train at high RPM.

The Falcon uses the solid cam - I don't "mess with valve lash" - I use quality parts, set it and run it. Unless I suspect a problem there is no need to check the lash with any regularity. Maybe once a year.

Cam specs (Crane 521141) are 238/248 @ .050 (300/310 advertised) .554/.577 lift. I use crane double springs recommended for the cam - 130 seat, 360 open, Ferrea 5000 stainless valves and Isky EDM lifters. I used titanium retainers on this build because I got a really good deal on them with the springs - chrome moly would have worked just as well. Rockers are Harland Sharp 1.73 ratio.

The whole build is on our web site. The Kelly's Hotrod page

As dodge said, you should always replace the stock valves (and guides) if you intend to spin a 351C.

I agree. Definately upgrade the springs and retainers for any high rpm upgrades.

I use quality parts, set it and run it. Unless I suspect a problem there is no need to check the lash with any regularity. Maybe once a year.

Agreed. I run a BIG solid roller and I set it in the spring. If I didn't back the rockers off in the winter time, I might not even worry about it then.

A 4V Cleve makes a great street motor. Don't listen to rumors that were created by p-od Chevy guys that couldn't keep up.

EVERYTHING is available for the Cleveland. You just might not find it in the Summit catalog.