'65 won't stay running

well I figured out the fuel and starting issues, now when I start the car it will run for a few seconds and just sputter out and die. it seems to run better if I hold the choke plate closed. does the fact that the air cleaner isn't on it affect it enough to make it not run properly? I noticed the balancer doesn't have timing marks on it, I tried rotating the distributor a lil bit and it didn't make much difference...I'm new to carb'ed motors, what should I do?

You should FIRST... Get it to run...

Then FIND the timing Marks....

Then time it...

Then clean the junk out of the carb so fuel will flow through the metering orifices...

There you go


FE

Originally Posted by FEandGoingBroke

You should FIRST... Get it to run...

Then FIND the timing Marks....

Then time it...

Then clean the junk out of the carb so fuel will flow through the metering orifices...

There you go


FE

I'd do all that...except I don't know how. I'm still trying to get it running, hence the thread. I cleaned off the balancer and still couldn't find any marks. How would I clean junk out of the carb?

Balancer has only a thin line cut into it.

Remove the top of the carb adn make sure there isn't any crap in the fuel bowl.

WHen was the last time this car was driven and what's the history on the engine?

oh I thought there would be a bunch of lines and numbers like the 5.0 I had before

don't know when it was last driven, previous owner couldn't figure out the fuel issue so he didn't drive it at all. it's the stock 289 with longtubes as far as I can tell.

think I found a vac leak. took off the carb, noticed a threaded hole on the passenger side, just behind the front passenger side bolt hole. wtf is supposed to go there??
also, the float was super dirty. all kinds of crap in there. I've cleaned it out, but I can't find anything online that tells me what's supposed to be on that hole..

figured it out, it was for the distributor vac line. for some reason the fitting was gone and the line was right next to where the hard line screws onto the auto choke. so it was connected to nothing lol. it runs now, the idle is super high though. which screws should be adjusted? the one on the right by the throttle linkage, the one on the left for the choke, or the two under the float on the front of the carb? I noticed one of those under the float was turned in twice as much as the other...

The two under the float should be turned all the way in then out 1.5 to 2 full turns. (then adjusted for best or smoothese idle under 800 rpm's.

To get the idle down you need to let off on the idle screw that holds the throttle open... Over on the side where the gas pedal hooks up...

yeah that screw is backed all the way out...

would this carb and manifold work on a 302? or should I go with somethin bigger? it's just going to be a rebuilt 5.0 from a fox mustang, might go HCI later on but for now it's going to be stock

It will work on a 302, but there are better units available...