What The BEST Rust Preventive I Can Use

Originally Posted by CaptVirgilHilts

FE is right Mustangs rusted because they WEREN'T painted properly IMO.
What I'd consider doing is spraying the underside with the rubberised paintable rocker spray then painting it with a semi gloss black paint. Primer and or paint alone will get blasted by the road debris eventually then you're back to rust spots.

...I have a different opinion about rust and Mustangs. The worst rust areas on early Mustangs - actually on most cars can be attributed to poor design. Mustangs (early models especially) were designed, manufactured and produced in record time. They were never expected to become the iconic automobiles they became. 10 maybe 20 years was all they were expected to last.

The major rust areas are cowl, because once the drains are plugged water, dirt, leaves and debris will collect and breed rust. Lower fenders, once mud collects in the lower fenders - constant contact with dirt, salt will cause the paint to bubble once that barrier is broken - its rust city.

To make the point; the biggest contributer to rust in cars is poor design. Any where dirt and moisture can collect will eventually rust. Bottom of doors, fenders, roof channels, trunk inner fenders. Once the drain holes, weep holes are blocked or (stupidly!) closed by good intentioned but woefully ignorant "perservationist", there is no way to wash away, clear the dirt from the areas where it collects.

The 'best' rust preventative is remove any collection spots where dirt and water can collect and frequent irrigation of those areas - give them a chance to air dry once in a while. Given time and opportunity - any barrier will fail, all it takes is one breach to let the rust start. The fact is - the natural state of steel, iron - all ferrous metals is iron oxide (rust). So the natural, stable state of our cars is, you got it ! ....Rust!!! All we can do is postpone it as best we can, which means, prevent the collection of water, moisture from staying in close contact with the metal.

Originally Posted by Beoweolf

...I have a different opinion about rust and Mustangs. The worst rust areas on early Mustangs - actually on most cars can be attributed to poor design. Mustangs (early models especially) were designed, manufactured and produced in record time. They were never expected to become the iconic automobiles they became. 10 maybe 20 years was all they were expected to last.

The major rust areas are cowl, because once the drains are plugged water, dirt, leaves and debris will collect and breed rust. Lower fenders, once mud collects in the lower fenders - constant contact with dirt, salt will cause the paint to bubble once that barrier is broken - its rust city.

To make the point; the biggest contributer to rust in cars is poor design. Any where dirt and moisture can collect will eventually rust. Bottom of doors, fenders, roof channels, trunk inner fenders. Once the drain holes, weep holes are blocked or (stupidly!) closed by good intentioned but woefully ignorant "perservationist", there is no way to wash away, clear the dirt from the areas where it collects.

The 'best' rust preventative is remove any collection spots where dirt and water can collect and frequent irrigation of those areas - give them a chance to air dry once in a while. Given time and opportunity - any barrier will fail, all it takes is one breach to let the rust start. The fact is - the natural state of steel, iron - all ferrous metals is iron oxide (rust). So the natural, stable state of our cars is, you got it ! ....Rust!!! All we can do is postpone it as best we can, which means, prevent the collection of water, moisture from staying in close contact with the metal.

Beweolf

Your veiw on RUST was very enlighting.

However, all I posted was; What's the best rust preventive I can use ?

I couldn't agree with you more about the How's & the Wherefors of the gathering of RUST on classic Mustang.

However, I remain in seeking an answer to what's the best rust preventive one like myself can use on his lovely '66 Ford Mustang Convertible.

GOD BLESS YOU
Schooner
QUOTE: The More " i " Surrender The More " i " Win.

The ONLY, and I mean ONLY way to prevent RUST is to FULLY remove the metal from the Elements of Water and Air.

The only way to accomplish this is to PAINT, OR COVER in a way as to NOT let in any Air or Water.

THAT is the ONLY and BEST way to prevent rust. Forever and always.

If you want to make your car unsusceptible to rust, Paint ALL the exposed metal's and prevent chips and cracks and moisture and air form getting to it.

I find I must explain 2 things to you gently.

RUST is Oxidation, Oxidation CANNOT occur Without Oxygen(see air)

And

If you prime and paint your metal it will become UNSUSCEPTIBLE (more or less impervious) to rust. The only way to introduce Rust to your metal is to allow Air and Moisture to get to it.

So after reviewing this whole thread maybe your question should be changed to this.

What Primer and Paint Combination will prevent Air and Moisture from reaching your precious metal's in your soon to be unmatched for beauty, 1966 Mustang?

Am I not correct in this?

I'll let others argue the best or worst paint and primer combo


Sincerely, with your Best interests in mind.


FE

I am really impressed with the finish and sealability of the Dupli-Color spray-in bed liner. It gives a nice pebbled finish with a low shine. I used it on my frame rails and brake backing plates, and it seams to seal very well. It is also quite durable and scratch resistant.

What I was trying to convey is prevention does not start after the the product has been built, it should start from the design stage. Cars have traditionally been thought of as consumables, use them them up - then throw them away. To preserve them will require a lot of remedial effort, mainly to overcome the PP (rymes with dish door) initial design that came from the factory.

Newer cars are much better; there are fewer 'nooks and crannies' to collect moisture wicking residue. To preserve older cars will require a little more preventative effort, after making a best effort to install "barriers" to rust formation. The big question is Just how much are willing to spend in both time and money to preserve your car?

OK, now that the disclaimers are out of the way, and you have made a decision on whether this is a "driver", sunny day car or trailer queen - lets get to the nut. I think a well prepped, cataylized enamel paint is great for the visable areas (not as shiny as the new two stage paints, but I see a lot of old cars in better shape than new cars; where the top coat has been buffed through while a full pigment one stage paints are still going strong)...but thats just an opinion.

as for the underside, if you have the money, powder coated frame - inside and out, after repairing any previous rust issues, coupled with agressive washing of any accumulations of mud, leaves, salt and frequent touch-up of scratches - before the become a problem, should help the car last much longer.

The idea of using bed liner coating is not a bad idea, just make sure you are not sealing in rust under the coating, sooner or later rust will start up again and a thick coating will hide the damage until its too late to fix it, cheaply.

The best thing about cars pre 70's and 80's is they are mostly over-built. You can rebuild most eveything on them, if you have access to parts, gaskets - soft parts.

Rule #1. start out with a car in the best condition you can afford, it may cost more to buy, but it'll save tons of frustration, cash in the long run.

Originally Posted by Beoweolf

...I have a different opinion about rust and Mustangs. The worst rust areas on early Mustangs - actually on most cars can be attributed to poor design. Mustangs (early models especially) were designed, manufactured and produced in record time. They were never expected to become the iconic automobiles they became. 10 maybe 20 years was all they were expected to last.

The major rust areas are cowl, because once the drains are plugged water, dirt, leaves and debris will collect and breed rust. Lower fenders, once mud collects in the lower fenders - constant contact with dirt, salt will cause the paint to bubble once that barrier is broken - its rust city.

To make the point; the biggest contributer to rust in cars is poor design. Any where dirt and moisture can collect will eventually rust. Bottom of doors, fenders, roof channels, trunk inner fenders. Once the drain holes, weep holes are blocked or (stupidly!) closed by good intentioned but woefully ignorant "perservationist", there is no way to wash away, clear the dirt from the areas where it collects.

The 'best' rust preventative is remove any collection spots where dirt and water can collect and frequent irrigation of those areas - give them a chance to air dry once in a while. Given time and opportunity - any barrier will fail, all it takes is one breach to let the rust start. The fact is - the natural state of steel, iron - all ferrous metals is iron oxide (rust). So the natural, stable state of our cars is, you got it ! ....Rust!!! All we can do is postpone it as best we can, which means, prevent the collection of water, moisture from staying in close contact with the metal.

I cannot agree more with you... However to add to these points, in particular the cowl issue. Ford DID NOT prime or paint the underside of the cowl area or from what I can tell treat the "top hat" vent inlets with any thing more than maybe primer. I've heard stories of Mustangs getting rust spots in the dealers lots. They did sling these cars out at a record rate to meet the huge initial demand so much of the issue is there plus the poor design as you say. The design was inherited from the Falcon and again who knew these cars were to be coveted so 20- 40 years hence. They were just to be replaced in 2-4 years as they fell apart. Sorry for the hijack...

Hi Guys/Gals

WOW! I only wanted to know what's the BEST . . . to use "

I thank you for your reply. However, I indeed know what the causes rust.

I just wanted to know and I believe I found out what the BEST product to use AFTER I remove the rust with my roloc disc / grinder is; POR-15 RUST PREVENTIVE. From what I've read on their website and people on the forums I've read; POR-15 is the stuff to use.

Again Thank you 4 your reply.
GOD BLESS

Schooner

Originally Posted by SCHOONER

Hi Guys/Gals

WOW! I only wanted to know what's the BEST . . . to use "

I thank you for your reply. However, I indeed know what the causes rust.

I just wanted to know and I believe I found out what the BEST product to use AFTER I remove the rust with my roloc disc / grinder is; POR-15 RUST PREVENTIVE. From what I've read on their website and people on the forums I've read; POR-15 is the stuff to use.

Again Thank you 4 your reply.
GOD BLESS

Schooner

Good choice. It should work out well for you. POR - 15 is indeed an above average product when applied correctly.

Its hard to answer a "Best" question. Best covers a lot of ground...means a lot of different things based on your ultimate goal.

Not to hijack the thread, but anybody has any experience with the Eastwood Rust converter?

3M body schultz will do what you are wanting. Sold by the quart and similar to sprat in bed liner material. POR 15 is also a good choice.