Manual transmission: Clutch cable kit

I ran the Modern Drive line cable set up on my 67 w/351. Had to ditch the Hooker Super Comps for Heddmans, but plenty of room - wrapped the header though it didnt need it.
The Mcleod diaphragm works great, so far has not slipped, smooth as silk, I have all this mounted up ahead of my Toploader running a Lakewood bell and fork.

How is the feeling with a clutch cable kit? It's really better, smoother than the stock Z bar?

ive never used a Zbar setup, so I cant comment. Ive heated up/slightly melted 2 cables so far, but ive fixed the mounting a little bit each time, and cables are cheap.

Going to swap in a hydraulic setup so0nish, maybe a winter project.

Originally Posted by pass1over

ive never used a Zbar setup, so I cant comment. Ive heated up/slightly melted 2 cables so far, but ive fixed the mounting a little bit each time, and cables are cheap.

Going to swap in a hydraulic setup so0nish, maybe a winter project.

Anyone know of a kit for a hydraulic set up?

This is my first cable, and I was un certain having run Z bars in all my prev mustangs. Z bars can be rough, noisy and hard, especially with a good or Comp pressure plate, one leg gets bigger. I maintained and set up right, the Z bar is fine. I was worried about the feel though having driven 80's and 90's cable/5 spds, didnt like the feel of the clutch and tranny having owned nothing but mechanical clutches and Toploaders. I love the mechanical feel of the Toploader.

I am really pleased with the feel of the cable, it doesnt have the same smooth friction point, it comes up and bites a bit then engages, smoothly, that maybe the Mcleod plate and disc vice the cable. I really like the effortless pedal, and ease of adjustment. The only thing I dont like is the cable and headers. I have my Hooker big toobers hanging on the wall, with the 351, they would not work, I have seen Hooker big toobs on Bosses and 302/289s, so it may be the extra deck gets the collectors up tad higher? With the smaller Heddmans I have tons of room for the cable, but wrapped one tube just because I ordered the crap thinking I would need to.

I will either go back to the Z bar or hydraulic with the next motor, or look at mounts that lower the engine in the car a bit more. This one is just for beating on and having fun while I tinker.

I have a hydraulic clutch kit in my '65 with 302, Tri-Y's and T5. Bellhousing is stock T5. The kit is made up of parts from CNC, the parts were purchased individually (from Carshop Inc) and I fabricated the slave cylinder bracket and clutch fork connection myself.

Clutch is a Centerforce Dual Friction. I really like the feel of the hydraulic, much better than my friends cable clutch setup which is harder than mine and sometimes get stuck.

BEWARE: If you choose hydraulic, remember to bleed the master before the system, I didn't at first and had to preload the clutch/bearing way too much because the stroke of the slave was a mere 15mm/0.6inch. I didn't ruin clutch, but it wears out quicker. After bleeding, the stroke is over 25mm/1inch.

Here is some photos of the parts and install, posted at MustangSteve. com a while ago:

FYI FORD - MustangSteve's Message Board: Re: powerbrakes with hydrualic clutch ?

FYI FORD - MustangSteve's Message Board: Re: powerbrakes with hydrualic clutch ?

(The spring used in the picture is a originally a park brake lever return spring, but after some driving I swapped it for a seat track spring 61828-1A (the long one) for an easier pedal effort.)


Complete topic
FYI FORD - MustangSteve's Message Board: powerbrakes with hydrualic clutch ?

Originally Posted by InfectedMushroom

BEWARE: If you choose hydraulic, remember to bleed the master before the system,

What do you mean by bleeding the master before the system. Bench bleed ??

good info you posted

Just to inform those concerned.

I bought Modern Driveline's kit and I'm expecting it soon. I've a 3 finger style and according some members it does not work but it's false, I emailed Bruce and here's his reply:

If the clutch lever height is under 2" clamped to the flywheel and releases in 3/8", yes it will work with a cable. Don't need to remove the booster and clutch pedal.

So to be sure, I contacted my clutch manufacture and yes it will work (SPEC clutch Stage II).

Also, I bought the correct clutch fork and of course, the late bellhousing type.

Will let you know of the progress.

Mustang Steve has a very nice cable clutch setup. that's what I'm using and very happy with it. Plus compared to the others you are getting more for your money...JMHO

cable

Joe