5.0 302 V8 New Crate Motor Install

I have a 1990 mustang GT with the original 302 in it. I'd like to get as close as possible to 400rwhp (more realistically 300+) and to do so have considered several options. I'm working part-time as a mechanic and everyone has advised me against configuring a powerful top end since it may eventually blow out the old/tired low end.
Instead I can get my hands on a new crate motor 302 and start there. What I wanted to ask was if anyone new of any documentation/instructions/guide to performing the swap of simply installed a new 302 to replace an old one. I'm sure it's fairly straight forward, I just don't want to take the chance in missing a step since this will be my first engine swap. I haven't found much yet most of the information out there is for swapping a V8 for an inline 4 or V6.
Does anyone know where I might find documentation like this? Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by semail81

I have a 1990 mustang GT with the original 302 in it. I'd like to get as close as possible to 400rwhp (more realistically 300+) and to do so have considered several options. I'm working part-time as a mechanic and everyone has advised me against configuring a powerful top end since it may eventually blow out the old/tired low end.
Instead I can get my hands on a new crate motor 302 and start there. What I wanted to ask was if anyone new of any documentation/instructions/guide to performing the swap of simply installed a new 302 to replace an old one. I'm sure it's fairly straight forward, I just don't want to take the chance in missing a step since this will be my first engine swap. I haven't found much yet most of the information out there is for swapping a V8 for an inline 4 or V6.
Does anyone know where I might find documentation like this? Thanks in advance.

Write down everything you do to take out the old engine, plenty of pictures couldn't hurt. Go slow ... if somethng seems to "catch" stop, look for the gotc'ha, fix it and continue.

What you are doing is not a swap, at least not in the full sense of the phrase - at least not in my way of thinking; its a simple R & R, (remove and replace). Armed with your log of everything you did to take it out, with some common sense and pictures - just put everything back in reverse. Fit as much stuff to the new engine as you can before hanging it on the cherry picker and dropping it back in. Its always easier to install parts on the bench or engine stand than it is while you are draped over a fender.

Parts you might want to change with the new engine: radiator, starter, clutch/flywheel/throwout bearing/pilot bearing, water pump (if not included w/ crate), and anything else that will be hard to get to once the engine is in. If you are going for headers (shorties)-get them now too, no need to do the same job twice.

Ps: If you have the budget or an squeeze it in by holding off an extra month or so, then get a 347 instead of a 302/306... I guarantee you'll be happier in the long run.

It woud be an in kind change-out, if you a mechanic it shouldn't be anything difficult.

i'd look into a 347 Stroker Motor It make meeting you RWHP Goals a little easier.

Thanks a lot guys I really appreciate it. Yep, I was planning on doing exactly as you said I use a digital camera to snapshot anything before I remove it (re-installation purposes) and usualy take step by step notes to document my work then separate parts/bolts into ziplock bags labeled with the step number. Huge help for me especially if I do the work over a couple weekends.

Interesting note about the 347 stroker motor. Is it the same block as the 302 just bored out?

Would the 347 require different parts (water pump ect.)?

As far as cylinder heads go I've done a lot of reading about the AFR 165, 185, and 205 heads would you guys reccomend these heads (kind of pricey)?

Are the 165s a bolt on, I'd like to go as high as I can, but want to avoid any potential piston to valve clearance issues

Do you plan on going away from EFI? If you do, it will be easier to get your goal HP, but a lot harder to tune your engine to get there.

If changing over, you need to re-think your fuel system to a low pressure sustem. If you keep EFI, then you may need to upgrade your fuel system for higher operating pressure for the EFI injectors.

The 347 is a very relaiable upgrade to a standard 302 block. There is no way to tell you have a 347 just looking at the engine. It looks like and is a standard 302. Except what's inside.

I would have gone with a stroker if I knew better 10 years ago... but they did not have many stroker kits backthen.

The 185's are a good choice for a street 347 combo, just look at getting a valve and spring upgrade (from AFR) the stuff that comes in the base price leave a little to be desired.

If you go with aftermarket pistons or a 347 you don't need to worry about the "bolt on" 165 crap.

Also keep reaserching there are alot of other good heads on the market. TFS, Ford Racing, Edelbrock, Canfield, Dart, Ect.

I 2nd that. Go with a 347 stroker. You'll gain about 65hp/65ft lbs more than staying with a 302. I love mine...she's a animal.

Excellent news thanks to everyone.

I would like to keep the EFI setup. I was definitely planning on upgrading the fuel system with at least high flow injectors and a high flow fuel pump and maybe a high flow fuel rail as well, upgraded fuel rail recomended?

I'd really like to see the setup everyone else has sounds very interesting. If any of you don't mind especially those with the 347 stroker setup do you have a parts list and any hp numbers for they work you've done under the hood? I'm mainly interested in cylinder heads, lower & upper air intake, throttle body, headers & exhuast trying to find the best combo or bang for the buck.

Any reason you wouldn't be able to bolt a blower on a 347 motor? Not necessarily any weaker than the standard 302 is it?

The 347 is not any weaker than a 302. A 302/347 should be able to support around 550hp with no problems. It's mainly the difference of the stroker crank and the pistons in a 347 come up higher in the block. I was explained the difference in the rods being longer in a 347 vs a 302. We are only talking about 1/2 inch more on all cylinders. But it all adds up in the end.

Do your research really carefully on the fuel systems. It seems some brand name aftermarket fuel systems ofer lots of headachs, some you may never realize.

You will not have to go with a compressor if you build your motor correctly. There are many 347's that are N/A and run 10's....