one piece aluminum driveshaft?

heres who you need to call for the aluminum shaft PST balanced for high speed use track tested over 1200 hp there a 3 1/2 shaft complete 888-575-7888 or www.pstds.com


I dont blame you for wanting to get rid of that rotating weight. Its a no brainer, every bit helps no mater what is said
[addsig]

I'd love to see actual 1/4 times before/after with no mods...not a 'best of' run either, but a average of a few runs for a true picture. the weight sounds good, but that shouldnt get but what- .03~.05 seconds in the 1/4?
rotating mass acceleration gains probably greater/cheaper with underdrive pulleys- but I stilldont feel it would amount to much.

if anyone has the 'w k squared' numbers for either shaft, I'd like to run it thru a power calculation to see required hp to accelerate to 6000 rpm in 14 seconds(about a base mustang gt time)...I'm guessing its under 2 hp.

aluminum flywheels are cheaper- lightweight spools up quicker, but then too gives up much less power when upshifting...but still as it has to be accelerated to 2-6000 once, then 4-6000 twice per 1/4 mile run, thats gotta take some power...while 'adding power' at initial launch(not much at 2k) and 1~2,2~3 upshifts(considerable power-mine chirps both, a lot of that is from rotating mass of clutch/flywheel) you still have to spool up that flywheel3 times- 1st/2nd in only a couple seconds- that takes a lot of power, and as not shifting into 4th(stock gearing/power) you dont 'get anything back' from the last acceleration, so that is lost power...again, Ive never seen a published w k squared value for underdrive pulley/accessories or aluminum flywheels/lightweight pressure plates...too bad because with that a actual 'horsepower to accelerate' to any given rpm could be factored against stock to see how much difference they truly make...inertia/time/power are not a subjective best case dyno pull, they are facts- if they were that high, I'd sure expect advertising to show the numbers than just the usual 'gain 20 hp!!!' type of claims- I just cant buy it.



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ford4v429 on 3/4/07 9:35pm ]</font>

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2007-02-11 12:03, sharpshot71 wrote:
<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2007-02-09 22:24, bassman97 wrote:
Nothing more than a waste of money. The Aluminum driveshaft is wider than the stock piece and even though it is lighter, it will require the same amount of torque to turn since the amount of inertia on the Aluminum piece is much higher.
</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know about the rest of what you said, but the aluminum piece would not have more inertia, it would have less. More mass, more inertia.

Even if it took the same amount of torque to turn, lighter would still be better.

A magazine took two SN197 cars and got them into the 11s with bolt ons.

The one piece aluminum shaft was one of the mods which saved a lot of weight

</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>


I know of the article that your speaking of. It was on their site (5.0 magazine but its gone now [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_frown.gif[/img] ) and there was an improvement in the time for that driveshaft swap (was it the 5speed that ran it or the auto?I forget). But for gods sake, Put a driveshaft loop in when you run a aluminum shaft!

I think that there is information to back this up online somewhere with dyno sheets, But I can remember where right now.
[addsig]

I just had my aluminum driveshaft installed yesterday - car does feel lighter and faster, revs quicker. I had a similar feeling when I had the underdrive pullies installed. $579+$29 ship+$74 install. IMO not worth all that money - but def worth $300. Unfortunatley the 05+ prices are double and triple of the prices for driveshafts for the older model mustangs. That price was the best I found for the S197. ...and yes I need to find a driveshaft loop that will fit the new "fat" aluminum driveshaft.
http://www.ponyupgrade.com/product/S197ALDS
[addsig]

A few of things:

1) the difference in diameter does not have enough negative effect to cancel out the difference in weight. There will be a reduction in drivetrain loss with an aluminum driveshaft. However, it is not necessarilly significant.

2) the most noticeable thing I've experienced with going aluminum is the balance. If you change to deeper gearing in your car, balance imperfections in the driveshaft are magnified. Lightweight aluminum driveshafts are much easier to balance, and less likely to be dramatically out of balance.

3) Stock production driveshafts are not necessarily of the greatest quality. A decent aluminum driveshaft (FRPP or otherwise is stronger).

4) A failure with either a steel or an aluminum driveshaft can be equally dramatic. Hard launches with slicks call for a safety loop either way.

5) Is the price worth it? Depends on your wallet. For perfomance gains (1/4 mile or otherwise) there are better ways to spend money.

Originally Posted by bassman97

Nothing more than a waste of money. The Aluminum driveshaft is wider than the stock piece and even though it is lighter, it will require the same amount of torque to turn since the amount of inertia on the Aluminum piece is much higher. Think of it this way, take two rings, one solid and one hollow and let them roll from a stop at the top of a ramp. Even though the solid one is heavier, it will start to move first and reach the bottom first. Save your cash for Hurst Shifter or subframe connectors.

A double yes on the Hurst shifter! The best money I ever spent.The next best thing is to replace the factory trans fluid with Royal Purple brand.It'll make that trans shift smoother & faster.I don't have the clunk you are talking about in my '07 but it only has 5900 miles on it.

More info on aluminum driveshafts.

TheMustangNews.com - Fidanza Driveshaft for 2005+ Mustang