Review of a Dannmar D7 lift

Ever tried to dump your car or truck off the Jack stand? Well I have, and it only takes one near miss to realize that a lift is a relatively cheap investment.
About a year ago I was removing the AOD in my 62 Galaxie so that I could install a T5. In order to get under the car to get the transmission out I had the car up on 4 jack stands and for extra safety a jack under the rear end center section and one under the K-member engaged with just enough pressure to make contact. For most of the swap all went well, but when I got the AOD on the ground I realized the front of the car was not high enough to slide the transmission out.



To get the height I needed, I began to slowly jack up the front end. As the car went up I watched the rear jack stand with every pump of the jack to insure nothing was moving out of position. The car went up no problem; I adjusted the front jack stands to match the new front height and slid the AOD out. The real issues started when I went to lower the front of the car back down to the height it had been when I first pulled the AOD. As I began to lower the front of the car, the front legs of the back jack stands began to rise off of the ground. I immediately stopped lowering the front end of the car and readjusted the front jack stands to support the front end. I then went to the back of the car and jacked up the rear end to reset the rear jack stands.

If I had not been going slowly and continuously checking the jack stands as the car went up and down, I am sure the rear jack stands would have tipped and the car would have come down, injuring me, messing up my tools, and worst of all damaging the car. Safety First!!!! That is a motto that has served me well

Almost dumping the car on the ground made me realize that I needed to do something different. I was leaning toward an air powered one-end frame lift, but had not yet gotten one. One day, completely by accident, I discovered that Costco was selling a Dannmar D7 lift for $1700.00 FREE SHIPPING. At the time the 1700.00 price was the result of a $200 instant rebate and even though I new it would take 3 or 4 months to pay the lift off, I couldn't pass it up!!!

Delivery
Costco’s web site had said, “expect 4-6 weeks for delivery”, but actual shipping only took about 6 business days. Due to the size of the package 14’ long and 1500 pounds, I had to drive to the trucking dock with a flat bed trailer to pick up my lift.


The freight company was happy to load the crate on to the trailer with no extra charges. Once I got it home we backed the trailer in to the garage to get it unloaded.


It took three of us about 30 minutes to open the package and remove the contents, one piece at a time. The heaviest parts were the decks, which weighed about 400 pounds each, but 3 of us were able to get them off the trailer fairly easily.


Assembly
Putting it together was fairly easy. It took my brother and I the better part of a day to get it all set up. During assembly one thing that really helped was a heavy-duty cart on wheels. It allowed us to lift one end of the heavier items, slip the cart under said item, and then role the parts in to position. The over all assembly was not a hard job but I can easily see where it would have been much easier with three people rather than just the two of us.

Putting the main structure together involved positioning the four posts, installing a cross bar between each pair of end posts and then setting the decks on the cross bars so they could be bolted in to place. Once we had the main structure together the four actuating cables had to be run through the pulley system and attached to the hydraulic cylinder and the top of the posts. From there it was simply a matter of running a few hydraulic lines and installing the safety release linkage. All those parts went together with only a few issues that were fairly easy to overcome.

Things I do not like about this lift
It is rare for me to purchase a tool and not find one or two things that could have been done differently to make the tool better, and this lift is no exception. One such disappointment, was the instruction manual. It was a little vague and left room for interpretation. An example of this was, the manual clearly stated "before you begin assembly make sure there is 120" clearance from the front of the lift so a long rod can be installed". Upon reading this, my question was what end of the lift is the front, is it the side with the ramps or the side where the front of the car goes when a car is on the lift?

After a quick phone call to the company that shipped me the lift, I thought I new which end was the front and built the lift accordingly. When the time came to install 120" rod I found out that it needed to be installed in the end of the lift that was facing the back wall so I did not have the clearance I needed. This little set back required me to weight until I could borrow some casters to rotate the lift. Turns out that the official "front" of the lift has nothing to do with the ramps or which end the front of the car will be on. The front of the lift is the end that the hydraulic pump is NOT on.

Another disappointment was the obvious “cost saving” strategies of the manufacturer. There were many examples of this. The washers used with all the connecting hardware including the 1/2” main bolts that connect the decks to the crossbars were all made of about 20-gage steel. I felt that was insufficient especially since some of the holes that the 1/2” bolts went through were quite a bit bigger than 1/2". I easily remedied that situation by digging through my washer can and replacing the provided washers with some that had a reasonable thickness.


Another “cost saving” issue was the length of the power cord or lack there of. The cord is so short that you must use an extension cord and the connection is right there on the pump.


I am going to wire in a longer cord and am thinking of putting a foot switch in line. I only have 9.6” clearance to my ceiling and would hate to shove my car up into the ceiling if the main switch were to stick. A foot switch will require me to put my foot on it to get power to the pump. If the main switch were to stick all I would need to do is take my foot off of the foot switch.

The last disappointment was in two 7’ rods that are part of the safety release linkage. These rods are only 1/4" thick and they flex when you are actuating the linkage.


The biggest problem I have with this is that if the linkage on one end of the lift were to not properly disengage then you run the risk of the lift decks becoming cocked in the posts, which could damage the lift. I fixed this by fabricating up new linkage made from some steel tubing and some grade 8 bolts. It is much stronger and has much less flex.


Things I like about this lift
I don’t know how I ever lived with out this tool. Being able to get under a car and have easy access to everything is amazing.


Even better yet is the safety factor. I love the over all structure of the lift, it is rated at a capacity of 7000 pounds and I have no doubt that it would easily hold that much weight. The actuation cables are nice and thick, the hydraulic cylinder is quite large and moves smoothly and I was also very impressed by the quality of the heavy duty UHMW bushings that are used for the end cross pieces to slide up and down in the posts. Over all this is a quality tool and money well spent.






Accessories
After I purchased my lift I realized that there was an accessory that I should have purchased with the lift and that was the caster kit. The D7 lift has the option to use heavy-duty caster so that you can move the lift around. You can even use these casters with a car on the lift.


After building the lift facing the wrong way and being forced to improvise in order to move it, I quickly realized the casters are a must have. When the casters were shipped to me I also received a jack plate, which spans the distance between the lift decks and allows you to jack up the car to raise the car’s wheels off of the lift decks.


I recommend getting both of these parts with the lift so you can save the freight costs over having them shipped separately.

Final thoughts and opinions
Over all I am extremely pleased with the lift. Its structure and function or top quality and I would feel perfectly safe working under this lift. The few issues I did have with the connecting hardware, cord length and the safety release linkage, were minor and easily fixable for less than $50.00. This lift is an excellent tool especially for the price and I would recommend it for any one who spends a lot of time under their cars.

good interesting writeup,
are you able to get the car higher in your garage when the garage door is shut-
have you got clearance in the centre of the garage where the pitch of the roof is highest?

A lot of us have wanted these. There you go stirring the pot. Good info. Does it come with the pail? Here is a tip for you...The next sturdy office chair you see discarded with a pneumatic height adjustment, grab it. Take off the back and you will have a nice little stool on wheels with some height adjustment. I use mine even for waxing the car. Now I just need the lift.

my dream tool indeed..
perhaps someday...

SWEET! Nice timely writeup.

Daze, have you done the pro's/con's research comparing a 4 poster lift like you have to a 2 poster type lift? Curious as to what is not obvious (like ceiling clearance, un-level floors, etc.)

Oh, I think I just found many of my answers at: Which Lift Should I Buy: 2-Post or 4-Post?

It looks like a Greg Smith 2 poster might find its way to my garage . . . . .

Very nice write up, and my wife will appreciate you spending our money, kidding.

Sorry, I may have missed a couple of things, your overhead/cieling is 9'6" got that. What foot print post to post is it?

Also, what size is your door and how deep is your shop from the door back? Looking at the pics, it seems the posts our outside of your door tracks? I have a 9 foot door and my depth is 22', just trying to figure if this will all clear in there and the door will go up and down.

I didnt put a lift in when I built this, covenants wont let me go higher than single story structure, although I did add one course of block that they overlooked on inspection? I didnt think it would fit on other research, but you make it look easy.

My door is only a 7' door. the garage is 26' deep and the lift is about 5' from the inside end wall. the lift dimensions/Specifications are:

Lifting Capacity: 7,000 lbs.
Overall Width: 105”
Outside Length: 170-1/2”
Overall Length: 203-1/2”
Height Columns: 82”
Minimum Runway Height: 4-1/2”
Maximum Rise: 70-1/2”
Maximum Lifting Height: 75”
Width Between Columns: 92-1/2”
Runway Width: 18-5/8”
Width Between Runways: 37-1/2”
Length of Runways: 160-1/2”
Locking Positions: 10
Lock Spacing: Every 4-1/2”
Lifting Time: 45 Seconds
Standard Motor: 110 VAC 60Hz. 1Ph

My galaxie is only about .5" narrower than the decks of the lift and if the old gal were much longer it would not fit. My Mustang will fit no problem. I am thinking of adding a side extension and bumper rail to the drivers side deck, as well as a guard over the hydraulic lines on the p-side deck. Let me know if I can give you any other measurements.

Thanks much, this will be enough to lay out a footprint and see what I got. Great info though. thanks.

Originally Posted by dazecars

My door is only a 7' door. the garage is 26' deep and the lift is about 5' from the inside end wall. the lift dimensions/Specifications are:

Lifting Capacity: 7,000 lbs.
Overall Width: 105”
Outside Length: 170-1/2”
Overall Length: 203-1/2”
Height Columns: 82”
Minimum Runway Height: 4-1/2”
Maximum Rise: 70-1/2”
Maximum Lifting Height: 75”
Width Between Columns: 92-1/2”
Runway Width: 18-5/8”
Width Between Runways: 37-1/2”
Length of Runways: 160-1/2”
Locking Positions: 10
Lock Spacing: Every 4-1/2”
Lifting Time: 45 Seconds
Standard Motor: 110 VAC 60Hz. 1Ph

My galaxie is only about .5" narrower than the decks of the lift and if the old gal were much longer it would not fit. My Mustang will fit no problem. I am thinking of adding a side extension and bumper rail to the drivers side deck, as well as a guard over the hydraulic lines on the p-side deck. Let me know if I can give you any other measurements.

Wow, nice. That's every guy's dream tool....yes I'm jealous.

I'd planned on a lift 'someday', kept a eye out for the type I wanted- and lucked out- we picked up a old commercial bear/johnbean alignment drive-on scissorlift at auction for 1K, came with (2) sliding 5000 pound jacks, just needed cleaned up and a coat of paint...9000 pound rating, watch for local auto dealer/repair auctions, some pretty good deals out there. the scissor types are heavy as all heck, and the legs can kinda get in the way- but wide open down the center, and no posts...

one thing I would recommend to anyone- put a switch on the ceiling...I aint hit it yet, but did take out a lightbulb when I went to lower our minivan- gotta raise a tad to disengage safety latches, luggage rack touched lightbulb- that will get your attention real quick!
On my list of things to do is adding a reflector/photoswitch or two just below the rafters, and maybe a solenoid latch on the door track so door cant be opened at the upper height, and a switch on the door to stop the lift lower if the doors up...
our garage is only 11' high and the lifts at the back wall of a double deep bay- the rear wall is 3' into a hill, so the lift acts like a car elevator too, the door behind it is 3' off the floor with a concrete pad outside- only thing is, if the lifts up high, the door can hit the roof of the car if fully opened... at grade everythings clear, but at 4-5 feet up, gotta watch the door. I even marked the door latch warning not to open at upper 2 positions, in case someone else ever messes with it, and put a lockout switch on the wall right by the pump so I can not need to worry about the kids 'riding' on it...could just picture the roof collapsed on a car- yikes!

funny thing is, just before getting the garage inspected, happened to think- wonder if the inspector will say anything about the door 3' off the floor...coulda been a big issue, but he didnt even notice. the rear door was really only wanted for ventilation purposes, and possibly for unloading stuff from the pickup bed(can back the truck in and dolly stuff right out the rear door), but soon I want to just put a big screen over the outside door, so if opened for light/ventilation the bugs and critters cant come in

almost broke the antenna on one of the cars too one day, antenna was directly under a truss...dont forget to watch for that

Anyone else thinking about driving off a elevated lift to a different ground elevation, or driving off the 'wrong end' of a lift at all- caution- on our scissor type the ramp end just sits on rollers- could flip up if excessive weight put on other end...I tried it with ramp end restrained(just in case), pulled the galaxie nose-in just onto the dead end of the lift from the rear door, nothing moved- but if I put all I had under the ramps, I could lift that end lowering the car- 18 feet of leverage and the weight of the runways all that hold it down...on a lighter lift wouldnt want to try it. eventually going to bolt a rail under the rollers so it would not be possible to kickup if 'misused' by driving onto from the wrong end. for now the rolling jacks are always on it, thats a few hundred extra pounds holding it down too...but thats the only time Ive had a car on the lift 'backwards'...on a 4 post drive-on lift, if the posts are setback at all, same possibility exists if its off the floor...probably best just to 'use as designed' huh

Tim