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08-04-2004, 03:39 AM   #1 (permalink)
Cstang50
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 73
bad 60ft time at track

it was my first time going to the track with a 5 speed and i could not get a good start for nouthing i was wondering if anyone could help 88 5.0 373 and 245-45-17 tires thanks[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_confused.gif[/img][img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_confused.gif[/img]
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08-04-2004, 04:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
sg465
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 52
bad 60ft time at track

I know the feeling. What were your times? what rpm did you leave at? tire spin or bog? mods to car? What were your ETs?
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08-04-2004, 11:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
tonys10sec306
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: maryland
Posts: 3,497
bad 60ft time at track

Get some TIRES. M&H or M/T d.o.t tires
[addsig]
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08-04-2004, 10:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
Cstang50
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 73
bad 60ft time at track

my best was a 15.00 my 60ft was a 2.73 i could not get the car to grab my rpm was 2200 and any less it would bog and at that the tire would spin im thinking about lakewood shocks do you think they might help or should i try my stock rims and tires because they have more of a side wall the car is more less stock but gears373,cold air,chip,aod to t5 swap,pulleys,h pipe,and bbk shorty headder thanks [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_confused.gif[/img][img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_confused.gif[/img]
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09-11-2004, 12:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
1fstpny
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 118
bad 60ft time at track

There is bunch of stuff, right off, drop your air pressure down, to 14 psi. Heat your tires up in the box, I know your going to hear many opinions here but try it in the qualifaction rounds and see if it works. Try various rpms in the qualifactions.

Get a set of upper and lower control arms and a air bag, put the air bag on the right hand side and air it up try 10 psi, then more, then less. Change only one thing at a time and write down the results, the track temp, and conditions. running 1.40 60' is no small task. Ask the pro's mine car will run in the 1.5-1.6 range generally.

If you have the cash you cna throw money at the problem and buy a set of 9-10" wide et streets, they are good tires keep the air pressure on 10-14 psi range.

Mac
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09-11-2004, 11:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
mavman
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 4,439
bad 60ft time at track

Mines the same way (and bone stock). Anything more than 2200, and it smokes the hides. Less and it bogs.


I figured it out. I bring RPM up to about 2500 or so then when the lights drop, I slip the clutch and use the right foot to control wheelspin. So far, a 1.92 60' on 225/60-15 street tires has been the best. Went 1.91 once...but grenaded the 7.5" rear in the process[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_frown.gif[/img]. Imagine that, a broken 7.5"
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09-12-2004, 11:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
Cstang50
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 73
bad 60ft time at track

i got it to grab once i think my tires are hurting me 245/45/17 no side wall im going to go agean wed im trying my stocks thanks for the info [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_tup.gif[/img]
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09-14-2004, 01:51 AM   #8 (permalink)
1fstpny
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 118
bad 60ft time at track

Tell me your not running a 7.5 in your Mav? I swapped a 8.8 out of a Mercury Monarch in my boys and used the front disc spindles as well. Of course his Car started life as a 200 six.

It now sports a a 60 over 302 with a set of the Dart pro 1 heads, so far the engine has 45 minutes of run time, no leaks no knocks and sounds strong. I can't wait to get the thing tuned its been raining like a scalded dog in Idaho. It have to wait a couple more days until it stops raining and I have time to recruve the distr and adjust the timing a million times.

The C-4 works fine, manual valve body and h servo with a 5 cluthes set at 20 thousandths, a 2500 rpm convertor. I post some pictures of all the Cars sometime soon..

Mac
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09-14-2004, 10:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
mavman
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 4,439
bad 60ft time at track

Ohhhh no....I wouldn't put a 7.5 in anything (weak piece of junk) if I HAD to swap rear ends. The race mav is a 9" and the street car is a 8" 2.79 5 lug. The 7.5 is in the '84 Mustang GT....and if it wasn't for the fact that I found a '86 TC rear drum-to-drum for $25, it would have been yanked and replaced with a 9" (I have the brackets already to weld them on..) It was just easier to replace a few broken parts in the 7.5 at the time, plus it's about 100 lbs lighter than a 9" and at 41 MPG I don't wanna mess with it too much. It howls like a raped dog but with fuel prices up and another motor to build, I wanted to save a few $$$ and stick with the weeny 7.5".

When it broke, it took out the 2 smaller spiders, pulverized them into bits and pieces and took out the springs with 'em. Other than that, it looked good. The 3.73's were saveable. So, in short--no more drag racing the Mustang as long as the 7.5 is in it. Sure saves the T5 too (weak)....and I absolutely love drag racing with a 4-5-6 speed trans. Just too much fun!
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09-14-2004, 11:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
1fstpny
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 118
bad 60ft time at track

Right On, I would have run a 5 speed but, the cost was just too great when I set the 85 up. I was looking at a Rock 6 spd, and 430 gears, but it just never happened.

So I ran a old tired c-6 the first year and half never missed one beat. Built a C-4 and shredded it in 2 runs, rebuilt it and it has been running 2 years, with a manual valve body. Made all the difference.

I working on rollerizing a c-4 slowly, machining parts, maybe next year it will be done. I'm building a 8.8 with 9" axles housing ends so I can get rid of the leaking c clips..

Mac
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