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11-15-2004, 11:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
mavman
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 4,439
414 build

Hey guys & gals, I'm working on my little 414w out in the shop. This is the first one I've worked with so I didn't know what to expect. I'd done some 410 Chevy's and some other stuff (514 Ford, 496 BBC, 452 chrysler, etc) and was prepared for the worst. This thing is simple to put together. I did the homework, bought Mahle pistons, .060", 6.25" Eagle H beams and Scat 4" stroke crank. I was expecting to have to grind the pan rails, cylinders, main webs, etc....but so far I haven't had to much other than grind on the cheapie main girdle and the oil pump. I did do a 393 once, and it was a bit different...seems like the counterweights were bigger and they hit the pump and bottom of the cylinders on 4 holes only. Can't remember why...just know that a rod broke and destroyed the rest of it too (stock rods).

So, for you all trying to decide on whether to build a 393 or 408....go for the cubes! Not any harder to build, same prices, and best of all, more torque!
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11-16-2004, 09:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
coolfalcon
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,387
414 build

If you use the 2.1 chevy rod end on any of the strokers you wont have to work out any clearances. My 393 with a 6.2 rod needed nothing.
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12-30-2004, 06:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
1fstpny
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 118
414 build



Thats correct and you gain, on the bearings as well less bearing surface, higher rpms, and less rotating mass as well. And you already know the clearancing issues become less of a problem. And you gained the added advantage of the longer rod, win/win deal. That's cool, but I'm starting to get the build a bigger motor bug.....
Dam!
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