418W build up - RPM or Vic Jr.

I have the same cam in a 347 and it peaks around 6000, I think your going to probably have a much lower peak than your anticipating, Probably somewhere in the 5000 rpm range.

I'm thinking the RPM Manifold will be a better match for the smallish cam for your CID your using and the parts you have.

Originally Posted by ou812

That's true if you want a quieter car, then the 2.5" exhaust will be much better. But not from a power standpoint.

Exhaust system trade offs: Sound, power, fitment, and ground clearance. This is a good article for exhaust systems:

Auto Exhaust Science

Also lots of info

Wow, a lot of good info!
This is a street car, so the "quiet" of a 2.5" exhaust would be fine as long as it doesn't kill too much power. The exhaust system I have is mandrel bent with an x-pipe and Magnaflows. It sounds like I may stand more to gain by upgrading to the 1 3/4" headers and then maybe upgrading the exhaust pipes later. Funny, this was originally going to be a nice little 302 project, then as soon as I said the word "stroker" my budget went all to crap!!! I may have to go to the sofa cushions for this one!

Originally Posted by dfree383

I have the same cam in a 347 and it peaks around 6000, I think your going to probably have a much lower peak than your anticipating, Probably somewhere in the 5000 rpm range.
I'm thinking the RPM Manifold will be a better match for the smallish cam for your CID your using and the parts you have.

I consulted Comp Cams (more than once) on the cam selection. I posed the same question to them, but they said that with my heads and set-up, the peak power should still be right at 6000. They pointed to the many articles where the Comp Cams XE282 (232/240@ .050 565/574 lift) was used in 393's and 408's with 185cc heads and similar compression that made over 500 HP on the dyno at just under 6000rpm with a lot of torque using a Victor Jr. intake. They said that my cam (236/242 @ .050 555/576 lift) is one step up from that one which should work well since my stroker is basically one step bigger than the 408. Also, they said that with my 2800 stall converter and 3.55 gears, I shouldn't go any bigger. Other companies I called actually recommended smaller cams with less duration around 230/236 @ .050.

I've had the car on a chassis dyno and I'm speaking from fact not theory. just trying to give you a heads up.

Originally Posted by dfree383

I've had the car on a chassis dyno and I'm speaking from fact not theory. just trying to give you a heads up.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the heads up! That's the kind of feedback I'm looking for... experience. I will double-check my research on the cam since it is a lot easier to change things now than once it is in the car and running! Anyone else have thoughts on the cam?
The machine shop just let me know that they won't be finished balancing the rotating assembly until Monday, so it looks like my engine builder can't start until at least Tuesday. We are still planning on dyno'ing the engine before putting it in the car.
Now's the time for any recommended changes!!!!

With the cam you picked and the small headers and the 2.5 exhaust, your HP peak will be at 5500 RPm. You still might reach your gold of 500 HP. but the next larger cam would be a better choice. The RPM intake will make 40 lbs more torque down low ( 3500) But it will just spin your tires harder. The 3 inch exhaust is only worth a few HP over a nice 2.5 system.
JOE SHERMAN RACING ENGINES

Thank you for the reply BIG JOE! I found a little money in the sofa cushions and ordered a set of Doug's Headers today with primaries that are 1 3/4" and step up to 2 1/8" and 3" collectors. How much will the headers alone affect my HP and peak rpm?

The main reason I didn't go with the next larger cam (Comp Cams 35-427-8 242/248 @ .050 576/600 lift 110 lobe sep.) is because according to the Comp Cams tech, I would need to change out my new stall converter and rear end gears. I have a 2800 stall and 3.55 posi gears with 26" od rear tires. I know that you are speaking from experience so I'd like to hear your thoughts! Would the next larger cam be very streetable and work well with what I have?

The converter stall thing is very vague. The brand name of the converter has the most to do with it.A real nice street converter has to be at least 3000-3300 RPMThe BAD news is, the converter companies dont even know what they have got for real stall speed.Your cam deal is right inbetween where these things should fall. IF you have a 10 inch diameter you will be very good, If your converter is an 11 inch, it is probably a hair too tight. If it is brand new, send it back and exchange it for the one you really need.Sorry.
JOE SHERMAN RACING ENGINES

Thanks again for the good info!
I got my converter from a friend who bought it and ended up never using it. He said its rated at a 2800 stall and he always uses high-end stuff, so I figured that was one less thing to buy. He is one of very few people that I trust on something like this.
In light of what you said, I'm thinking that since the cam one-step smaller than mine has proven to clear 500HP on the dyno in 393's and 408's, then my cam should be able to do the same (and hopefully a little more) in my 424 without having to worry about changing my stall, rear gears, or even my valve springs.
Do you think that logic is safe, or do you think that I should go to the larger cam with what I have? I would have to make sure, but I think my valve springs are OK for the larger cam. How much will the 1 3/4" headers alone affect my peak rpm?