418W build up - RPM or Vic Jr.

Glad to hear its running good for you..I'm anxious to hear the dyno results....What kind of a rad are you running?..My northern fit right in with no issues...I don't know what you are going to run for an air cleaner but my ford racing oval air cleaner fits perfectly inside the mach scoop on a vic jr intake.

Thanks Frdnut! I got my radiator from a local shop and I'm not sure of the brand, but the outlet for the bottom hose was right up against the radiator support keeping me from mounting the radiator as low as needed. For fifty bucks they are just going to move the outlet over so I can move the radiator down a couple of inches which is all I need.
As far as the air cleaner, I am duplicating your set up that you sent me pictures of on another thread. Its really the perfect solution... gets everything under the hood with a steady supply of outside air to the carb! The hood was cut to fit snugly around a 12x2 inch oval that I will use under a cobra jet style scoop. I ended up having to put a one inch spacer with a vacuum port under my carb for my power brakes. I believe you said that you are using a three inch tall filter in yours, so mine should still clear the scoop with the two inch filter.
I'm as anxious as anybody to see dyno results! I will certainly post them when I get them. If I can get the radiator sorted out this week, then I should be able to get it on the dyno next week depending on the availability of the dyno.
When are you going to get yours all put back together?

Sorry I forgot I had sent you pics of my setup...It is very cold here in Canada right now so mine won't be going back together till it warms up some time in May...

Will this thing ever be done???!!! While I had the radiator out, I decided to change to an electric fan. Then I started changing the shifter out to a B&M Megashifter, changed the steering wheel, and found an old Cal Custom scoop that I have to re-cut the hole in the hood to fit. One of these days I'll stop screwing around with it long enough to get it to the dyno... and oh yeah... DRIVE it! I have decided that I'm not changing anything else until I finish what I'm working on now, dyno it, and drive it for a while! In the mean time, here are a few pics...

On my 408 the Victor Jr and RPM made the same average torque but the Vic made slightly more average hp. The main diff was that the RPM shifted the power band from the high end down to a more mid range deal.

I would suggest the RPM for a street car and the victor for more of a frequent track car where every bit helps.

I think the dynograph showing both of them was in one of the stories.

I almost brought her home today....
Got everything done only to discover that there is a problem with my new Demon AOD transmission! Once again, it will not shift out of first gear no matter what, even if I shift it manually.
Fortunately the transmission builder is shipping me a new valve body and governor valve on Monday. He said that I likely have a valve hanging up in the valve body due to the transmission sitting around for a few months while we built the car.
Oh well... one more week!!!

This AOD is about to drive me crazy!!!
We installed the new valve body, and now it shifts... but only at 5500 rpm! I have adjusted the TV cable in, out, and even tried disconnecting it. It will shift into all four gears but only at high rpm. The lowest rpm it shifted was at 4500 from first to second, but the TV cable was adjusted way out to where it was "slack". When it was disconnected, it shifted at close to 6000 rpm, and when it was adjusted in with no slack, it wouldn't shift at all.
Is tightening or loosening the TV cable supposed to make it shift sooner?
Perhaps I should post this on the Tech forum, but does anyone have any ideas?

what are you using for a tv cable setup? and where are you connecting it? Dont even run it disconnected as you will fry your AOD in minutes. I have an AOD in my 67/408.

htwheelz's photos- powered by SmugMug

You hit the nail right on the head! The person who set up the TV cable had it attached to the accelerator rod instead of using the Lokar cable and carb bracket I provided him to run it up to the throttle on the carb. We ran the car very little, so I'm hoping the transmission isn't hurt. Hopefully we'll have it all straightened out this weekend.
Thanks!

make sure you have just about 1/8" slack at start, then pull to full throttle and make sure it still has a hair of slack, there is corrector plates made for holley and edel carbs. Basically you want a 1 to 1 ratio between thottle opening and TV cable pull. hooking it to the lower hole on the carb linkage is not perfect so it is safer to have it a little tight from the start than too much slack from the start. The only problem is it will shift at a higher rpm and downshift at less than WOT but will save the trans.