418W build up - RPM or Vic Jr.

Thanks guys!

Sounds like I need to have another conversation with my transmission builder. I appreciate the info hotwheelz67, it will really help when I talk to them. If I can't get this one to do what I want then maybe I need to look into a Lentech valve body.

Okay, I spoke with the transmission builder yesterday and here's the deal...
My transmission does have the hardened one-piece input shaft with a non-lock up 2800 converter, heavy duty bands and clutches, and a shift kit installed in it. However, the valve body has not been modified to change the way it shifts. Therefore, it "behaves" the same as a factory AOD in that aspect. A factory AOD does not have a 4 speed shifter that goes into every gear like my B&M. Instead, they have basically a 3 speed shifter that does not go all the way down to first gear on the transmission which is why mine acts the way it does when I shift out of first. He told me that they build these AOD's two ways, the way mine is now or with a completely manual valve body.
So basically, if I want it to work differently I will have to look into an aftermarket valve body or opt for their completely manual valve body (which I don't want).
So the question becomes whether to just leave it alone, drop another 500 bucks or so for the Lentech valve body, or pull it all out, sell it, and go back with a 5 speed!!!

Go with a Tremec TKO 5 speed, either the 500 or 600 Tremec. These tranny's are built strong to take the abuse. Also with gas prices skyrocketing the 5th gear will get you down the road farther. I've got a 5 gear(.82) Tremec TKO 3550 rated at 525lbs at the crank. That 525ft lbs is a safety margin built in. My same tranny was previously behind a 600hp 408 cu inch that ran something like 10.20sec @ 129mph, I was told from the previous owner.

if it is a daily driver and you are happy with it for the 90% of use you see yourself driving, then i'd leave it as is for a while

for another valve body option, talk to jay at broader performance

Broader Performance Home Page

[quote=kgordonl;1398216]Thanks again Mustang4665! I don't think I've seen a car that looks any meaner than that black fastback in your signature! What's the scoop on that one? I don't see it listed in your cars underneath the picture.

The black 67 belonged to a good friend. The pic is from 1985. It was a stock bore 427 medium riser with tunnel port valves, step dome standard bore TRW pistons(12.5:1), 651, 330 adv, solid cam. 850 DBL PMPR on a Ford sidewinder. It had 5.14:1's and a clutch turbo 400, I know but it was a wheel stander. It was the first narrowed rear car I had seen on the strreet when he built it in 1978. I couldnt even drive yet but he was my neighbor and had a 69 Mach 1 like me.

The hood scoop was from that time and was known as a "Pro" or Pro Stock" style fiberglass unit.

lentech has valvebodys from about 279.00

Welcome to Lentech Automatics.com

here's another mean looking mustang ...

my tranny update ...

since the tranny shop couldn't take my stang, and the people at midas didn't want me to leave the car there, i decided to take it back to my office which is about 4 miles away. my son followed me in the other car

so about 1/2 the way there, it was running rough (i think maybe i need some dry gas stuff), so i was driving sort of hard, revving up to 3000 or in first, then putting it in neutral and coasting. then when i slowed down enough, i would put it back into 1st and do it again.

so one time i had just put in in D and revved it up to about 4000 rpm ....

and it shifted, sort of hard! i was like WTF?

then it started shifting and acting normal, and i was like OMG!

i think whatever was stuck in the valve body came unstuck

the florida guy said that the aluminum valve bodies with steel valves tend to stick if they sit for a while

Chris - I'm glad to here that your transmission got tired of waiting around and decided to fix itself!!! Actually, what you describe is not all that unusual. A few different transmission guys told me to keep running mine in drive then reverse over and over to see if mine would "free up" and start working. It just didn't work for me, but a replacement valve body did. Yours will likely be just fine now that it is working. Just be sure to get the detent cable set up properly so that it doesn't damage the transmission.
So, how is it performing? Are you happy with it now?

Originally Posted by kgordonl

Chris - I'm glad to here that your transmission got tired of waiting around and decided to fix itself!!! Actually, what you describe is not all that unusual. A few different transmission guys told me to keep running mine in drive then reverse over and over to see if mine would "free up" and start working. It just didn't work for me, but a replacement valve body did. Yours will likely be just fine now that it is working. Just be sure to get the detent cable set up properly so that it doesn't damage the transmission.
So, how is it performing? Are you happy with it now?

i haven't driven it much yet ... it wouldn't start a few days ago, but there was fuel and spark, so we replaced the spark plugs and then i started, but it is still running rough, like it is missing. i am starting to think the gas has water in it. i have had the tank almost empty for almost a month now preparing for a conversion to carb, and there has been alot of rain and cold and hot weather, so i think that water was absorbed into the fuel. when i have time i'll get some of that dry gas stuff and hopefully that will take care of it.