393 Build up questions

for the low rpm / high torque application, I wouldn't waste the money on forged pistions, Hypers will be better and tighter clearances will benifit you. Keep the compression under 9-9.5 if your towing any real weight.

Some Smaller Heads Like Brodix SR 5.0, GT-40X, AFR 165 / 185, Edel RPM's Ect should work great under 5000 rpm on a 393 / 408

Originally Posted by kgordonl

A 408 with 6.2" rods actually has a better rod ratio than a 393 with stock rods! Therefore the 408 would have less skirt pressure than the 393 and potentially last longer.

This statement does not take into account the size of the skirt or the area in which the side loads will be spread. Indeed the total side load may be less with a 408, but it is spread over a smaller area due to a smaller skirt and the psi may be higher than it is with a larger 393 piston.

Simply making a distinction and am not attempting to recommend a 393 or a 408.

Well I might be getting my hands on a whiped out chev crank that has a bunch of mallory metal in it for free. My buddy said i could have it all to use for balancing my setup. The weights on it were sharpened a lot so theres a lot of mallory in it. Should be enough to balance a 393 or a 408.
Since I figure for my aplication that stock rods will be ok i might lean into the 393 just for cost reduction.

Got a line on some roush heads today as well that im thinkin about getting since the price is pretty fair.
Local junk yard has a good running 92 351W in a truck that i could have with all the sensors wireing harnes and ECU for $200.
I need the ECU box to house my Megasquirt adapter board and having a spare compleate EFI setup will be handy for sensors and stuff.
Plan is to get it all built and ready and then switch engines in the truck to minimise downtime. Then its a race to get the tuning done.
Anyone have any baseline tune #s for a ECU with this type engine?