393 Build up questions

Looking to build a 393 for my 89 F250
Purpose is street/towing with a little horsin around once in a while
Heres what I want:
400-450 ft-lbs (Real numbers)not like interia pulls
Most driving between 2300 and 3000rpm, Red line at a modest 4000-4300
87 pump gas
Mega Squirt with DIY ford adapter ECU
Wide Band O2

Is it a bad idea to run stock 90s 351 Rods?
Could basic ported D0OE-C suport the power with stock valves?
With chevy valves?

Other heads recomendations?
RHS?
Brodix?
GT-40P?

I can do head/Valve machineing so hope to save some there.

Is the Edl 5.8 intake worth it for a EFI setup?


Im open to any input,
Thanks

I would go the RHS heads. I'm a dealer for them, and they are nice heads.
Stock rods with bolts will be fine for that power level and rpm range.
Brian

Thanks,
I was thinking stock rods would be fine as well but im inexperienced with strokers.

Anyone have info on RPM brand parts?
I can get RPM Bottom end stuff pretty cheap.
Was told Scat and RPM are the same?

Since you're stroking it anyway and you are looking for low-end power, you might consider going with 6.125" or 6.2" rods. You can get new forged I-beams in either size for around $150 from CNC Motorsports or The Mustang Depot all day long. You could hardly recondition your stock rods for that!

For that matter, you could stroke to a 408 with 6.2" rods for exactly same cost as building the 393. TMD has complete stroker kits for around $700 that would work just fine for your application. You could run a mild camshaft with those RHS heads and make gobs of low-end torque!
Just throwing out some options!

I'll look into it.
I was straying from 408+ because its probably going to be in there for a while and skirt pressures on the longer stroke engines really fly up fast alond with piston velocity and accel. Im not so sure it would last as long and or need forged pistons.
Although i could wrong.
I should be able to get work over the stock rods myself if they need it too so no cost there.
I'll wait to mockup and flow benching to pick my cam. I'll probably wind up with a custom grind.
Was actually lookin at some RHS dyno numbers today VS. some others.
I think I would lean more into Canfeilds for chamber design but cost is a factor too.
Wasnt impressed stock AFRs.
The heads are good but on a chevy stroker here we got better power out of stock Vortec heads.

Explain longer rods? Longer rods with the same 393 crank?

A 408 with 6.2" rods actually has a better rod ratio than a 393 with stock rods! Therefore the 408 would have less skirt pressure than the 393 and potentially last longer.

Most professional engine builders will tell you to use the longest rod you can (without having to use pistons with the pin in the ring landing) in whatever engine you build. Not only does it straighten up the rod angle, but it makes more power. So if you were to use 6.125 or 6.2" rods in your 393, it would have a better rod angle (less skirt pressure) and make more power.
My logic is since the rod ratio of a 408 is fine with 6.2" inch rods and has proven to be a very durable combination, why not take advantage of the extra cubes?

Originally Posted by kgordonl

Most professional engine builders will tell you to use the longest rod you can (without having to use pistons with the pin in the ring landing) in whatever engine you build. N

I hope those werent chevy engine builders, the majority have the pin in the oil ring land, which is no big deal whatsoever. Rod ratio, is useless as the day is long. The staple of all sportsman racing engines is the 454 chevy and take a look at the rod ratio, so thats a moot point as usual. Better yet look at a 400 chev, yummy

Build a 408, cast crank, I beam, forged piston. The cost to balance a 393 will offset the inital cost of a 408 99% of the time as they almost always need mallory metal as there isnt enough counterweight material.

Good point about the balancing cost! It seems like everyone I know who has built a 393 has also had a high balancing cost.

I wouldn't go as far as saying that the rod ratio is a moot point. That's one of the reasons so many people run the longer 350 rods in a Chevy 400 small block. Its also the sole reason 408's are so much more popular than 427 and up strokers. Otherwise, everyone would be running 427's since they cost the same to build! However, I do think the rod ratio may matter more in high reving racing applications than lower rpm street cars. But then, what do I know?... I'm running a 424!!!

Any ideas how deep of dish I would have to run with 64cc chambers on a .30 over
408 4"stroker to keep in under 10? This is gonna be a trailer hauler so im trying to keep it 87.

When you go to buy the pistons, the piston manufacturer will have that info. You just tell them your application and what compression you want, and they can recommend the right pistion.
I have found the Keith Black website to be helpful:
United Engine and Machine Co.
Click on KB Products - Pistons - and then search by application