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06-01-2008, 10:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
351Cjunkie
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 5
383C or 393C block work

Are there any clearance issues (rod or crank) building a 383C or 393C using a .030 over 351C block? What is the longest rod I can use without notching the block? I am considering the scat 383 or 393 rotating assembly. Block was machine some time ago(bagged and tagged) and has just been setting and waiting for parts $$$s. Thanks
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06-01-2008, 11:08 PM   #2 (permalink)
BIGJOE
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 545
Re: 383C or 393C block work

The rod has NOTHING to do with it, The stroke is where the problem lies.

JOE SHERMAN RACING ENGINES
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06-02-2008, 05:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
351Cjunkie
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 5
Re: 383C or 393C block work

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGJOE View Post
The rod has NOTHING to do with it, The stroke is where the problem lies.

JOE SHERMAN RACING ENGINES
Thanks BIGJOE
Ok..I'm all eyes and ears....please tell me more. The only machine work done was, align bore check required a clean up only, cylinder bored 030 with deck plate, and cam bearing in stalled. Oh and magnafluxed sonic check. Do you know if I will need more block work for 3.850 stroke or 3.750 stroke? Thanks
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06-04-2008, 03:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
ckelly
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Merkel, Tx
Posts: 8,178
Re: 383C or 393C block work

I don't recall anyone on 351cleveland.net having any clearance issues with the block in a 377, 383 or 393 motor. It's the piston skirts and crank counterweights that get in each other's way. Depends on the piston and crank.
______________________________________
1967 Falcon 4 door 351C - Owner built, owner abused.
70 Mustang 351C / 06 Ranger, 04 SuperCrew parts hauler
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06-12-2008, 11:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
PSIG
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Seattle, WA area
Posts: 325
Re: 383C or 393C block work

Chris is right, the piston/crank relationship is a primary interference point, so be sure you get a known combo for the fewest issues. Scat is generally pretty good about that area. Actually, there are several checkpoints and some do depend on what rod you use. Some rods are very fat on the big end and will require checking for interference on both the block (pan rail & cylinder bottom areas) and the camshaft. Mock-ups are the word of the day.

To make life easier, you may want to take a rod to the hardware store and look for a stock-sized spring that will fit the piston pin bore and be just over 4" overall. This replaces the piston during some mock-ups and keeps the rod centered in the bore, while allowing more room and visual angles to clearance checking. Oh, and put some chair leg caps on the ends of the springs so they don't rub the bore metal-to-metal. If block clearance is required, it won't be much, and a light hit with a Dremel or die grinder will give the clearance you need. Have fun!

David
Piston/crank clearance - block upside-down on stand. Also note the semi-circle notch on the right side of the cylinder bore for the other rod to clear:

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-=≡ If it was easy everyone would do it ≡=-

Last edited by PSIG : 06-12-2008 at 12:00 PM.
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07-23-2008, 02:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
fordcarnut
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 15
Re: 383C or 393C block work

Got a 399 stroker complete engine w/ all mods done professionally built.
12.5:1, around 600 hp. if interested
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