Holley Electric Choke Tuning

Alright guys, this may be a no brainer for many of you but it stumped me. I moved to Nevada a few years ago from California where all my carburetors used to be chokeless. Been here in Northern Nevada for three years now and since I purchased "Project Redneck" for the site, I never ran it much during the cold months. Well, I want to now and here's what happened the other day when I went to start it. I'll show you how I corrected the problem here.


Video showing me try to get her started.


It was 40 degrees around 2:30 in the afternoon.


I popped the air cleaner to take a look at the choke position.


Considering the temperature outside, this isn't the recommended position of the butterfly.


After loosening the choke spring cannister, I moved it clockwise and counterclockwise but the butterfly wouldn't budge. I then pulled it off to make sure the spring loop was engaged with the choke lever arm. It was.


I consulted the Holley tuning DVD that came with the carburetor, but it didn't address the problem I was having with the butterfly not moving.


However, the DVD did suggest that I run a new wire from a 12-volt key-on source. They do not recommend using a stock choke wire or some spare wire in your motor compartment that happens to have key-on voltage. More on that below.


There are two over-adjustment tabs on the cannister that I noticed were not used on the carburetor shown in the DVD.


What the heck, I pulled them off.


Next, I re-installed the cannister loosely, making sure that the spring and choke lever arm were engaged.


With some advice from the guys in the FordMuscle All Ford Techboard Forum, I opened the throttle while turning the choke spring cannister. Once it was cracked open about a 1/4", I secured the cannister. I noticed that I would not have been able to reach this starting choke position if the over-adjustment tabs were still installed.


Now, it was time to create a dedicated 12-volt key-on wire for the choke.


I ran one from a 12-volt key-on terminal block that I had created a while ago. Just like the one in the FordMuscle feature article.


Here I am making a proper crimp.


After running the wire through the firewall, I connected it to the choke and made sure my ground wire was secure.


A video showing a quick start-up after everything was adjusted properly.


Here's a final shot showing the choke butterfly after the engine had run about 5 minutes. Slowly approaching a full open position.

Resource - Holley Carburetor Tuning DVD
The Holley Carburetor Tuning DVD referred to in this Tech Exchange submission was supplied with the new Holley Truck Avenger carburetor used on Project Redneck. The DVD comes with all new Holley carburetors, however it is also available for purchase separately on the Holley website.

The DVD offers detailed visual instruction through exploded views and narrated video clips that are not readily available online or in print.

You should hook it to the wire that comes out of the charge side of the alternator. I believe it is the stator wire. This way it only opens when the car or truck is running and not when the key is on.

Yep, that's what I did when I upgraded my alternator to a 3G alt. Just spliced into the stator wire for the choke.

Is there really any kind of benefit from removing the butterfly from the choke horn. I wish my torino would start like that but for chasing a few more ponies I removed the butterfly and am in the process of removing the choke horn. Good write up btw

You did good boy! You did good!

About removing the choke flap and HP.. I'm almost willing to bet there's NO noticeable HP increase... Almost....

what about taking out the choke horn and having a spread bore type design.

Originally Posted by torinoracer

Is there really any kind of benefit from removing the butterfly from the choke horn. I wish my torino would start like that but for chasing a few more ponies I removed the butterfly and am in the process of removing the choke horn. Good write up btw

The less restriction (choke blade, air horn, sharp edges on entry, etc.) there is the better the flow. If you want an improvement without a lot of work get a K&N air straightener. It drops on the top of the carb and provides a smoother entry for the air into the venturis. The more the airflow the better the signal at the discharge of the booster venturies and the better the mixture being delivered to the intake manifold. Remember if you increase the total airflow you must add more fuel(bigger main jets) to keep the same A/F ratio.

I'm in Kansas and run chokeless. The trick is to give it two SLOW pumps (the accel pump shot is spring timed-not a direct plunger shot mechanically attached to your foot) Wood the pedal and hold for a two count, do it again. Then with your foot OFF the pedal, the closed throttle lets what air comes in to have sufficient speed to pick up the sprayed fuel. You will have to tickle the throttle for a few minutes to keep her lit. (acually about 3-5 for me since its a ROWDY motor and the stall speed is a little too low for me to chuck it in gear earlier)

Not the most convenient but it's not a daily driver, and not having the choke horn really does help cfm when a drop base filter is used for hood clearance.