Homemade Engine Run-In Stand

A Chevy buddy and I decided to build an engine run-in stand. I figured it would be a good idea to have one, especially with this 427 stroker reaching completion. We designed it to be usable for pretty much any engine. We also designed it so the gauges would swing around from the front to the side, so they wouldn't be in the way when working on the engine, but could be swung around to be seen when tuning.

The leg mount slides front to rear, and the legs slide in and out to adjust to about any engine. A 3/8" bolt pinches them in place. Plus, the rear bellhousing mount unbolts in case the bellhousing needs removed while it's on the stand. You've just got to support the rear of the engine with a hoist or something.






The gauges are tach, oil pressure, water temp, vacuum and volts. The switches above the tach are ignition and starter button. The switch at the center of the gauges is for the dash lights. The round thing to the right of the gauges is a cigarette lighter recepticle to allow easy hookup of a wideband oxygen sensor. The switches at the bottom currently control the electric fan and electric fuel pump. The other switches aren't hooked up, but could be wired to a electric water pump, etc. The big red switch below the gauge panel to the right is a master disconnect. A fuse panel is used with all the circuits.










After this engine comes off, the wiring will be better organized and it will get a paint job.

So far, it has been VERY handy. I've had some leaky valve covers that are easily dealt with on the stand. Plus, I used it to change valve springs after breaking in the camshaft. MUCH easier to do out in the open than in a 1966 Mercury Cyclone!

Oh... about changing those valve springs... I used air to hold the valve open while using that Ebay tool to remove and install the springs (works great by the way) and on one cylinder, I heard a lot of air rushing into the intake and out the carb. I later checked the compression in all the cylinders and all were at 205-215 except this one. It was only 160. Pulling the head and dealing with a leaky valve will be WAY WAY WAY easier on the stand than in the car! It SUCKS, but not nearly as bad as it would have in the car.

Found the problem

Bad valve job.

Looks like the pilot wasn't centered, and it took off more on one side of the seat than the other. You can shine a light in the chamber at the valve head, while spinning the valve around, and it's the same daylight in the same place. The valve is not bent, the seat is just low in one spot.

Oh well....

Good job Mike, that is pretty neat. I especially like the rev limiter to prevent an unexpected mishap.

The only problem I would have with such a device is storage related. Can it be folded up into a 2'x2x2' box to be put on the shelf?????

Originally Posted by dennis111

Good job Mike, that is pretty neat. I especially like the rev limiter to prevent an unexpected mishap.

The only problem I would have with such a device is storage related. Can it be folded up into a 2'x2x2' box to be put on the shelf?????

Actually, the front part with the radiator folds down, the arms holding the engine come off and the rear section unbolts... so it all folds up nice and small when not in use. It can be hung on the wall or slid under something.

Nice stand Mike. On my test stand, I mounted a Ford idler pulley to the test stand's frame that allows me to use one V belt that will adjust to any number of engines. It slides front to back to align with whatever length engine I install on it, and it adjusts side to side to adjust belt tension. I found it easier to use since I didn't have to install an alternator or whatever to run the water pump, I simply use the idler pulley as the adjustment. Since I have built my stand 12 years ago, it hasn't stayed at my shop long because everyone wants to use it.

Originally Posted by F15Falcon

Nice stand Mike. On my test stand, I mounted a Ford idler pulley to the test stand's frame that allows me to use one V belt that will adjust to any number of engines. It slides front to back to align with whatever length engine I install on it, and it adjusts side to side to adjust belt tension. I found it easier to use since I didn't have to install an alternator or whatever to run the water pump, I simply use the idler pulley as the adjustment. Since I have built my stand 12 years ago, it hasn't stayed at my shop long because everyone wants to use it.

That's an excellent idea. I might incorporate that into this one. For now, there is an old GM 1-wire alternator on there hooked up to the battery.

Thanks!

thats a nice job ive been wanting to build one for years i guess ill get off my butt and build one now since i had so many problems with the last race eng i built.

Somebody inquired about the dimensions of the base of the stand, so I'll answer here in case anybody else is interested...

The base is made from 2" box tubing. The long sides are 48" long. The short sides are made from 24" sections welded between those, for a total width of 28".

The radiator is from a 70's model Ford truck, and is the same one used with either FE or 460 engines, so stock radiator hoses can be used for testing those engine families. Just be sure to mount the radiator higher than the engine so air won't be trapped in the engine. The rad was donated by a friend that has expressed interest in borrowing the stand at a later date. LOL! He also has an old Taurus electric fan that he's going to throw in to take the place of the borrowed electric fan that is on there now.

The gas tank is an extra off a Snapper mower. It was left over when I changed mom's mower engine out, as the new engine came with it's own tank. The fuel pump is a tiny, square generic pump from Advance Auto parts that was purchased several years ago and was just sitting around. The MSD box belongs to a friend's brother. 'IF' he ever needs it, I'll have to give it back, but I doubt he will.

Most of what we bought consisted of the 2x2 box tubing, gauges, switches, fuse panel, wiring, exhaust pipe and mufflers. We already had the 1x1 tubing, aluminum for the gauge panel, and the battery can be 'borrowed' from anything.

To make the gauge panel appear to be brushed, I used a handheld belt sander with a coarse belt across the aluminum, then hit it with some 'spraybomb' clear.

Now that the engine is off it and presumably got put in the guy's car today, the stand will get cleaned, painted, and get the wiring a little more cleaned up looking.

Engine run-in stands are really nice to have, as they allow a person to catch a lot of potential problems before the engine is installed in the car.

Good Luck!

ps... Tom, I got this when I tried to send you a private message, so if you want any replies to your PM's, you might want to look into it.

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