Vic. Jr To Super Vic Appearance Mod

This is a modification that helps a Ford Victor Jr. intake manifold appear much like its big brother, the Super Victor.

This is what a stock Victor Jr. looks like:

Notice that the casting from the front intake runner extends to the adjacent runner. The same thing occurs at the rear. Only the center runners are open and separated

Below is the Super Victor—notice that the runners are all cast separate from each other, as evident by the dark area between the intake runners:


Due to the amount of material we are going to remove, I do not suggest doing this modification on the kitchen table.
Below are the tools I used to remove the “excessive flashing”:

First drill several 3/8” holes in the flashing, following the contour of the runners. The flashing is about ¼” thick. Ensure that the holes are as close together as possible to make the next step easier.


Using light hammer blows on the chisel, alternate between the various holes until you can remove the large chunk of casting.



Now clean up the openings with a die grinder and an appropriate aluminum cutting bit. For this work, I chose a bit that is shaped much like a Christmas tree. HINT: Dipping the cutting bit in a little hand soap helps keep it from loading up with aluminum.
Here is what it looks like after a few minutes of grinding:

While I was at it, I did a little clearancing at the front for my Duraspark distributor.

Here is the completed intake. All that is needed is a good cleaning, first with an air hose, and then a fresh coat of black paint:

Although this modification may not give you the performance edge that a Super Victor may have, you can still enjoy the same open runner effect.
Who needs and Air Gap?

Dennis looks good, what kinda thermostat housing is on there?? It looks like an aluminum one?? I've been tryin to find a billet or otherwise aluminum one, i hate chrome!!! Thanks.

Originally Posted by BLstangin

Dennis looks good, what kinda thermostat housing is on there?? It looks like an aluminum one?? I've been tryin to find a billet or otherwise aluminum one, i hate chrome!!! Thanks.

Thanks.

That is a Ford brand chrome housing. Don't remember if it is O-ringed or gasketed. So far it hasn't leaked yet. . . . . .

If you scuff up the motorsport chrome housing, it kinda looks like aluminum.

Also, painting any housing with aluminum paint will make it look like Al as well.

Nice work.
You could also follow up with some 80 grit sanding rolls to finish the blend.

About the thermostat housing, CSR has one. Big money @ around $100. Sounds expensive, but for the work to make one and the quality of work, its a bargin really.

CSR Performance Products | Cooling Accessoriess | Simply the Best

That link will get you close, then go to "360 swivel thermostats", then "ford".

ah yes the ORIGINAL SPORT COMPACT!!!!!!

With that sleeper look you've got going on I'm surprised your not filling in the middle holes instead of opening up the end ones..lol..Seriously though that looks pretty cool...

more air flow for heat despirtion is always a plus!!!! GOOD THINKIN!!!!

Originally Posted by frdnut

With that sleeper look you've got going on I'm surprised your not filling in the middle holes instead of opening up the end ones..lol..Seriously though that looks pretty cool...

Good catch, LOL. Yeah, that thought entered my head at one time. Using some FEandgoingbroke rationalization I remembered that my intake has "Motorsport" cast on it (Vic Jr clone.) Since it was approved by Ford, it was OK. Add the fact that I will paint it black, the intake really isn't that noticeable.

Originally Posted by SLCK64

more air flow for heat despirtion is always a plus!!!! GOOD THINKIN!!!!

Good catch. That was one of my main motivations for the mod. Just wasn't 100% sure that removing some of the "heat sink" material was going to make the runners cooler--that is why I posted the article as an appearance mod. Knowing that the Air Gap and the Super Vic were similar, I gave myself the green light.

Good point about the heatsink factor... thinking about it more, I think maximum cooling would be obtained from only removing the last 1/2" or so that connects the 'web' to the flange where it meets the head... but that wouldn't look nearly as cool