Brake Light????

My brake light by my gauges comes on in my 68 4 door torino... what does this mean???

It means you have leak in one side of your brake system and it is moving the shuttle valve and actuating the brake warning light. It may be you have air in one side that is compressing a bit and allowing it to move slightly too. Inspect your brake hydraulics and it would behoove you to bleed them too. Stu

Thanks.. well i have the car up on stands and i had one person step on the brake while in drive and I kno for sure that one wheel kept moving... not sure about the other one....

ok... brakes work.... still have the light on tho!!! any ideas???

air in the system causes a pressure differential on the system. Time to bleed the brakes completely.

alright.. weather is better now and im back to working on the car.. jus to restate my problem again.... car was in storage since the late 70's early 80's. After we got it into running condition i drove it. It has power brakes... but when i drove it brakes were bad.. def didnt feel like power brakes.. needed alot of foot pressure to slow down the car and braking distance was horrible. Brake light in the gauges is on.

I changed the master cylinder and booster to a universal one. I had to modify the attachment to make it work. I changed the brake cylinders on the rear drums and new rotors and pads in the front. Small improvement in the brakes but very minimal and def still not what power brakes shuld be like. Please help I dont know what it could be.

Should I get the factory booster/cylinder rebuilt instead of universal?
Not enuf vacuum?? but i have a mild cam
manifold where sensor is and all the lines connect to is bad?

Did you ever bleed them?

yes i bled them from the brakes themselves.. never ran a whole bottle of brake fluid thru tho. never bench bled either.

I dont kno if it makes a difference but the brakes arent spongy like most weak brakes r. Instead the brake pedal barely moves at all. Takes alot of foot pressure to stop the car and i have to pull the pedal back up with my foot when im done braking to raise it so i can brake again next time.

I'm no expert but it sounds like to me that the pedal or mechanical nature of the application sounds bad.... thats just me though, so don't quote me! I'm a noob with these old cars.

u culd be right. when i took off the old booster and master cylinder the pedal moved in the range it should but when hooked up to the new booster and MC the pedal has a very stiff restricted movement span of about 1 inch.