eliteman76
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 554
|
Re: 1972 Torino Performance Suspension Parts?
Ron-
On the suspension, there has been alot of nothing really. Seems to be trial and error, and some good sucesses.
One issue, these cars NEED high rate springs. Even on the GTS packaged cars with the Maximum Handling package, the rates worked, but not high enough.
One good friend of mine does asphault oval track stuff. He runs 5" springs, with spacer cups, sort of like the hobby stock guys do. He is running a 850 pound spring up front, 351w/c6 in a 1974 Montego MX coupe, and I've been told by him, and his son the car drives quite well, his son said it was a blast in the canyons back in California.
Some guys have just stuck LTD springs, Ford Wagon springs, etc in their Torinos to get a stiffer setup.
Myself, I got a pair of rear high rate Moog new old replacement stock springs,
and as part of a package deal from a buddy, I got springs for a 1977 460 mark5 lincoln, which I shaved 4.5" inches off. I honestly have not a clue what it did to increase the rate, but the car is solid, not floaty, and the stance sits where I want it. I know I can hammer my GTS in the corners a lot faster than I really should.
The Pure Vision Gran Torino Sport used stock arms up front, but they were able to stick coilovers with very minimal work, I don't have any pictures for referance right now, otherwise I would post.
Out back, they did a 4 link with coilovers, but that was major build on the Torino. Some guys have done the truck-arm kit, from Hot Rods to Hell, ala nascar, and heard lots of good from that, but that requires alot of surgery out back.
For rear suspension-look at your control arms. Are they round or more of a diamond type shape? The diamonds are the max handling ones {ie: police}.
The lower arms, just box with some 3/16" plate, and you should be good to go, with new bushings. I also stuck inside the lower arm, 3 cross braces fully welded. Overkill, but I don't worry about them twisting.
I also did a 2/3 box on my front lower arms, while leaving the access area by the shock open.
Aftermarket lower rear arms are available from Metco, but they are a bit pricy. Billet is neat-o, but I'll stick with elcheapo steel boxed arms.
Which, is one of my gripes. On our cars, we can get the bushings, but no one has the replacement ecentric type bushings, for dialing in pinion camber. I guess the mfgr's don't think it matters that much.
On the bushings, I got all my front end stuff in a package deal from my buddy with the mark5 stuff...so I went factory-type replacement.
I have a PST polygraphite kit for the rear arms, and they will go in eventually, as I am not running my MH uppers right now. {for what ever reason, when I boxed my lowers, I used a spare set of regular uppers instead of doing my MH parts. DOH!}
My 1972 GTS is a factory 4 speed car; it has a 3 turn lock to lock box as compared to the regular 4 l-t-l box.
I think AGR can modify or change out to a better box, but I've never bothered into checking. There are some guys running GM type signaw units, just need to use some adapter fittings if running OEM ford PS pump.
No direct bolt in kits for a rack and pinion setup, but honestly, I have no opinion one way or the other. I'm good with my drag link setup.
I've seen roller-ized bearing draglink stuff for the mustang crowd, from Moog, but I don't think they are the same as the torino.
Sway bars are a must, but the biggest I have seen factory is the 1-1/8" front bar. I have a factory rear bar, a small 5/8" diameter, I've heard of guys doing a 7/8" front bar flip and fabricating the brackets to mount it up.
There was a guy who did a book, I think "MRE", I have it somewhere, for referance. Not the best, but useful.
Brakes are sort of Factory, and then swap out the spindle for aftermarket.
I'm going to ignore the 9" out back. I run 10" drums, will be going to 11 x2.5" drums over this winter. I like it simple, and don't want to mess with rear discs.
You have 11" standard front rotors, single piston caliper. Then, on the case of my GTS, and the Police and 1972 Thunderbirds, you have the 12" rotors, from the factory. These rotors will bolt on a 1972 Torino spindle, utilize the full size ford/merc/lincoln caliper bracket, and the same caliper for the 11" rotor.
The 12" last I checked was $155 from NAPA.
Hence, my episode of fitting 13" rotors off a 1999 Crown Vic Police Interceptor along with caliper and bracket. I fabricated a wheel hub from a pair of worn out rotors; basically we stuck them on a lathe, and turned off the rotor area, and machined the flange area for the studs to match the crown vic hub dimensionally. I also made adapter brackets to bolt the CV caliper bracket onto the Torino spindle.
Pure Vision went to FatMan Fabrications, and used one of their spindles spec'd for a 60's ford, same ball joits I understand, and they went to one of the major brake suppliers for the brake package, but it was a bolt together affair.
The shock issue has been discussed at length.
Me, I'm a cheap ass, I'm going to stick in Monroe Police spec gas shocks for a CVPI and call it good. Otherwise, adjustable shocks come to mind if you are a control freak. KYB, among others, are a good choice. Just need to ask around.
|