Thanks guys..... I was also wondering if there’s a reason why I couldn't install a locking rear end (arb perhaps) and have a decent off-road or trail vehicle... or is the '74 F350 a big fat lumbering cow? The one I am interested in is stock all around, including A/c P/s a C-6, & disc brakes (-:
About the 'Twin I beams'; I have read in various places that you cannot raise or lower the vehicle attached to it... because there is NO adjustment for camber it almost seems... disposable...?
“....If the Twin I-Beam axles are the forged variety, which were used from 1965 through 1981, camber can be corrected by bending the axle with a hydraulic ram. To make a make a positive camber correction, a rigid work beam is slung under the axle from a pair of clevis blocks. A hydraulic ram is then placed under the middle of the axle. When pressure is applied, the ram bends the axle upward and tilts the knuckle down to increase camber. A slight amount of overbending <<not very exact is it?>> is usually needed to compensate for spring back in the axle. A negative camber correction is made by removing the outboard clevis block and inserting a spacer between the work beam and axle. The hydraulic ram is then repositioned directly under the inner axle bushing. When pressure is applied, the work beam bends the outer end of the axle up which tilts the knuckle and decreases camber.
<<now it gets worse>>
In 1982, Ford introduced lighter stamped steel axle Twin I-Beam suspensions on the F100 and F150 pickups. The same axle is also used on 1989 and up Ranger pickups. These axles should not be bent because doing so may weaken them. Camber corrections on the stamped steel Twin I-Beam axles can be made by installing an offset bushing in the upper ball joint. Before you replace this bushing, though, note its position and amount of offset (if any). This will help you determine how much additional offset is needed. Many aftermarket manufacturers offer zero degree sleeves which can be installed to zero out the ball joint stud location to a nominal centered position. After replacing the bushing, steer the wheel by hand to make sure the ball joint isn’t binding.
::above taken from::
http://members.aol.com/carleyware/library/bfe1096a.htm
also see:
http://www.hotrodders.com/t11855.html
This is the reason why I consider the 4x4 models? Does this make sense?
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 67fastback on 2/4/04 7:27am ]</font>