Twin I Beam Question

HI ALL
First time in truck forum [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
I'll get to my prob.
I have installed a 72 front fram clip on to my 64 international (truck in sig.) and I need to replace the bushing in the two rods that hold the I beams in place (attach to the I beam and at the frame near the fire wall, I can't think of what they are called).
Is this as big of a pain as they say it is [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_confused.gif[/img] I've have one quote from Comercial Tire of $200. and another quote from another shop of $400. < This guy said they had to grind off the rivites and replace them with bolts. I thought yeow $400. just to grind off 12 bolts.... [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_lame.gif[/img]
Can someone explane to me what is the best (easyest) way to do this and what tools I might need.
Thanks [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_bow.gif[/img]
Tim[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_spin.gif[/img]
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Thats the radius arm bushing. And gringin off the rivets to get the bracket off is a BAD way to replace those. Loosens the structure, and takes too long anyhow. Just remove thoe whole enchilada. Probably need to replace the I-Beam pivot bushings anyhow.

With practice, I've been able to do all the bushings in about 3 hours. Its not that bad. If you do decide to do the Pivot bushings as well, holler. I've got a very good way of replacing those.
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Thanks Lov70sFord
I kind of thought that grinding off the rivites wasn't a good Idea.
I guess changeing the pivot bushing is a good Idea sence its only two more bolts and does get ware with no greassing.
Do I need to use a spring compresser for the coiles or just be carfull when letting it come down. Well I need to use a rattle gun on the bolts in the I beam they look purty gummed up? Also whats your good way to replace the pivots?
OH should I use poly-graphite or just regular stuff.[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_confused.gif[/img] and what about a front sway bar? right now when I make turns it seams to dive quite hard in the front. But its a 6cyl front end and out of a F100 and now has a BB on it and a bigger truck. I did add a pair of those 1" screw in spacers to try to stiffen it up a little.
Thanks
Tim[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_spin.gif[/img]
[addsig]

Ok, first off, no you wont need a spring compressor. Un bolt the bottom half of the shock and the brake hose and the spring will gently fall out. Also there is a little bracket that holds the top of the spring.

I would use an air gun on the polts, they can be a real bitch.

AS for replacing the bushings, an air compressor makes this job easy. First you need to remove the old bushings. Torch the rubber and dig it out with a screwdriver. IF your new bushings come with the outter metla shell, your going to need to remove the old ones. (Rubber will come with new shells, polyurethane usually dont) To remove the old shells, I used an air chisel, but you can use a sawzall to cut a slit all the way down one side. Then the tension will be off and it'll slide right out. On the side of the Ibeam the bushing is to be pressed in from, I chamfer the edge to make it easier to get started. Not much, less than an 1/8 inch wide. NJow your going to need 2 pieces of 1/4 inch steel, about 4 inches across with a hole in the center for a bolt. Get the largest bolt you can that will fit through the hole in the bushing, and long enough to go through the bushing, I beam, and the steel plates. Make sure its fine thread. Just gonna use that setup to squeeze that bushing right into place.

After that its all cake. As to the sway bar, early sway bars were bolted between the radius arms, a simple yet effective design. If you dont have one, Im sure you can find one in a bone yard. LAter models were more traditional in function, and can be found on I believe 77 and up. Both are fairly easy to install. Also, to stiffen it up a lil more, you can probably drop some 3/4 ton springs in there.

I think I covered it all, if ya got more questions, just ask.
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HAY Lov70's
If I decided not to do the pivot bushings, when I drop everything else well their be enough movement in the I-beam to pull the radius arm out of the bracket to replace the rubbers?
How would I know if the pivot bushing are bad?
One last question on the springs wouldn't the 3/4 t springs be to much and maybe make it sit to high in the front? or are they the same leaght just stiffer? I realy don't want it higher just not so much front end roll.
Thanks
tim[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_spin.gif[/img]

As far as not doing the pivot bushings and having enough room to do the radius arms the answer is "just about". Because there is and there isn't. Now on the "there is" side, you use a come along or a nylon rope to pull the radius arm just a little bit farther foreward by looping into the foreward section of your frame and using some leverage. or you loosen the bolt that holds the radius arm to the I beam and with that extra flex it will come out far enough to replace your old bushings.
On the "there isn't" side it's all about how much you want to struggle with it, because it's "almost there". Hope that helps. I am usually in a hurry when I do them and "make" it work wothout taking the whole assy apart.

_________________
GORGEOUS '67 F-250 Camper Spec. Frame up restoration (nearly un-necessary), with something bored & stroked coming soon!

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: FEandGoingBroke on 9/25/04 9:12am ]</font>

Thanks FE
Any Idea on the springs? Well the 3/4 t springs make it sit higher in the front. Or are they just higher rate.
tim[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_spin.gif[/img]
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Some years of half tons had a real short spring setup, but if your Front end uses springs that are about 18 or so inches long, the 3/4 ton springs should sit real nice.
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