Radius arm bracket rivets!

After searching the web on changing radius arm bushings (on a '73 F-100 2wd) I have found two common methods; Use a come-a-long to pull the arm forward, or cut out or drill out the rivets of the bracket. I discussed this with a few alignment mechanics, and all told me that the first method seriously risks damaging the pivot bushings at the other end of the I beam. So I've chosen to remove the rivets. Several posters have mentioned doing this in earlier posts. So here's my question:

These brackets are held on by 4 rivets, two on the side and two on the bottom. The side rivets should be easy, but the bottom ones are almost directly above the arm itself. With the nut and rear part of the bushing removed, I can easily get to the rear bottom rivet, but the forward bottom rivet looks like it will be tough to get to. How did you guys do it?

Get to it however you want, but... I have seen several of them bolted back in place after someone removed the rivits, and seen a truck wrecked because the bolts worked loose or snapped from poor grade. Please, use Grade 8 or higher SAE or Metric bolts that fit the holes perfectly with no slop, and be liberal with the Medium to Heavy Loc-Tite! And Re-check them frequently!

I have never had a problem doing the bushings, and I do the pivot bushings at the same time anyway, how can you damage a bushing that's lasted over 30 years already with a little pressure for a couple moments...?

FE
[addsig]

If you concerned about ruining the pivot bushing you could remove the bolt and pull the whole thing out as a unit. What I do is remove the front spring and unbolt the radius from the front and it will give you enough room pull the radius arm forward and not have to pry on the I beam too much.

Exactly what I do Alan.... fairly easy that way too, if you got a pair of floor jacks and a hammer and punch...
[addsig]

That brings up a couple of questions; I see that the arm is held with a bolt through the beam (under the spring), with the nut on top. Once the spring is removed, can that nut be loosened with a big wrench (breaker bar..?), or will I need air tools? I suppose it should be soaked with Liquid Wrench or something first? Where is the best place to support the frame when doing this? And finally, once all this is loose, is it an easy matter to drop the beam to replace the pivot bushings at the other end? I'm a pretty good mechanic, but have never worked on I beam stuff before.

Most of those bolts are rusted in. It is a good time to replace these also. The easiest thing to do is raise the truck as high as you can. Remove the I beam pivot bolt and the nut on the radious arm. By looking at the truck you will see which one to remove first. Remember to remove as much as possible first, spring nut and washer.

If you have any questions give me a call;

Good luck

Jim
[addsig]

just drop the axles and replace the pivot bushings while you're at it. Energy suspension makes some poly bushings that allow you to re-use the metal case/sleeve in the axle. Just knock out the old rubbers, tap in the new poly's, no need for a press or anything. With the pivot end unbolted, the axle can be removed while the radius arm bracket stays in place. It took me, maybe an hour tops, to replace both pivot bushings and radius arm bushings for both sides. Easy stuff, even easier when you do it right.

indigo66, Alan and Jim,
I'm convinced to leave the rivets alone and just pull the axles! Want to change out all the rubber with poly anyway. Thanks for the advice!

If you ever DO need to remove frame rivots, make sure the gas line is far enough away and use a torch to heat the rivots until they glow red...then they can be knocked out from the backside really easy...this is how i removed the broken spring hangers from the back of my rusted 78 F-250 snowfighter...JUST BE SURE YOU'RE NO WHERE NEAR THE FUEL LINE OR TANK!!! its soooo much easier than grinding or drilling the rivots.....