Page 3
 


3G Alternator - Installation
Installation of the 3G alternator can eb accomplished with standard hand tools, however access to a Dremel grinder or grinding wheel will be requried to peform the bracket modification. Total time to upgrade is less than 2 hours, and we do recommend the PA Performance wiring kit and fuse to handle the high current output.


We're installing PA Performance's 3G upgrade kit on our 5.0L Mustang Cobra. We also opted for the 4-ga. power wire and 200 amp fuse kit to ensure the high current doesn't burn up the stock wiring.

Begin by disconnecting the negative battery cable. Then remove the stock starter.
   

Remove the serpentine belt using an 18mm socket on the tensioner nut.

Remove the regulator plug (top arrow) and power output plug (lower) from the alternator, gently prying with a screwdriver.
   

Remove the upper 9/16" and lower 5/8" alternator-to-bracket bolts.

The alternator can now be removed from the bracket.
   

With the stock alternator out of the way, tap the bushing in the bracket forward to gain clearance for the new alternator.

The 3G alternator has a slightly larger housing which requires clearancing the stock mounting bracket. You can simply take a die grinder and hack out the area shown, without removing the bracket from the car. If you do this, be sure to keep the shavings away from the new alternator.
   

The aluminum is easy as butter to grind away. This image shows where and how much to remove.

Test fit the alternator in the bracket to confirm adequate clearance.
   

Peel back the electrical tape on the power output plug, and cut the three wires (two black/orange and one yellow) 1/2" to 1" from the plug.

The new 3G alternator (right) has slightly different electrical connections than the stock 2G unit. The power plug we cut in step 11 is no longer needed. The stock regulator plug will connect right up to the 3G socket (R). We'll attach ring terminals to the two black with orange stripe wires from the cut power plug will attach to the battery terminal (B) . The yellow wire from the cut power plug will connect to the stator terminal (S) using the white lead and connector provided (lower right.)
   

Using wire strippers, remove about 1/4" insulation on the ends of the three wires.

Slip on the heat shrink tubing, and crimp and/or solder the ring terminals to the two black/orange stripe wires. Use the butt connector to crimp together the white wire and the supplied stator plug.
   

Mount the alternator in the bracket. Use the supplied upper mounting bolt and the stock lower bolt. Leave them hand tight until the wiring and belt is on.

The next step is to route the 4-ga. power cable. The cleanest method is along the radiator support as shown.
   

Attach one end of the cable to the battery side of the starter relay. The fuse holder can be positioned flat against the side of the battery.

Attach the regulator (top) and stator (white wire) connectors to their respective sockets. The 4-ga. power wire and two black/orange stripe wires all attach to the battery terminal.
   

Install the serpentine belt and then tighten up the lower and upper alternator mounting bolts.

The final step is to reconnect the negative battery terminal, then check for proper charging using a voltmeter. You should see over 12 volts at idle. Be sure to check our video clips for a full output test.


   
Page 3
 
 
 
 
Contact:
PA Performance
P.O. Box 31
Frederick, PA 1943
Ph. 877-471-8010
email:
[email protected]
www.pa-performance.com