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Early Mustang Steering Box Upgrade (cont.)

Our stock box was full of slop. We measured a total of 3" of movement in the steering wheel before the steering linkage would move.

With the new 16:1 ratio Flaming River box installed the slightest input to the steering wheel results in movement at the tires. Not to mention that the wheel is smooth and tight throughout the entire range of movement. With our manual steering you can actually make u-turns with one hand on the wheel. Steering effort has truely decreased dramatically. Not a bad investment for about $475.

11. From the driver-side wheel well remove the three steering box mounting nuts. Be sure to place hand on the box when you get to the last bolt, otherwise it will likely drop down on your skull.


12. If the motor is in the car the only way to remove the long-shaft box is from under the car. You'll likely need the car on a lift, or as high as possible on jack stands (be safe!) You will also need to remove the motor mount on that side, and possible jack the engine up a smidge. Without the motor in the compartment, the box and shaft come out from the top with ease.


13. One 35 year old steering box to go. Hang on to the old box...while it's not useful to you, they are becoming rare and can be rebuilt or sold to someone looking for a restoration correct piece.

14. Early Mustangs use a 1" sector shaft, while the '67 and up Mustangs use a 1-1/8" diameter shaft. Be sure to measure yours before ordering. The new box for our '67 comes with a 16:1 steering ratio. Due to the roller bearing internals the steering effort is decreased quite a bit.


16. It's a good idea to replace the column and firewall seals while the box and shaft are out. Clockwise from left: firewall seal, column seal, and column to shaft seal.


17. The new box goes in the same way it came out. Don't worry about aligning the shaft at this point.

18. Again, be sure to wrap the shaft in something soft to avoid dinging up the interior.

19. Secure the box to the frame rail, reusing the original mounting bolts. Note how the steering shaft diameter increases near the box. This additional material serves as a vibration dampner.

20.
Slide the new firewall seal down the shaft, followed by the retainer.

21. Replace the end seal and slide the new colum down the shaft until it seats against the end of the shaft. Secure the column to dash bolts.

22. Temporarily attach the steering wheel to the shaft. We're going to center the box and steering linkage, which may require repositioning the steering wheel. Count the number of turns the wheel makes from lock to lock -our's is four revolutions. Crank the wheel all the way to one side then turn back half the number of total turns, so in our case two turns back. This the center point. Reposition the steering wheel, if neccesary, so the spokes are centered.

23. With the steering wheel set at center the pitman arm can be reattached to the sector shaft. We cleaned up the original pitman arm (check the splines for damage and replace if neccesary.)

24. The blind splines on the shaft allow the pitman arm to bolt on basically one way, so dont worry about being off by one spline...it's not possible. Make sure the bend in the arm swings up.


25. With the wheels pointed forward the ball stud on the steering linkage should be fairly close to lining up with the pitman arm. If not you can probably find some adjustment in the centerlink. We're using an adapter (Mustang Plus) which enables the conversion of a power steering centerlink to function as a manual centerlink.

Source:
FLAMING RIVER INDUSTRIES, INC.
800 Poertner Dr.
Berea, Ohio. 44017
1-800-648-8022
 

 

 
 

 



 


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